Tag Archive | "San Blas"

Panama’s Best Beaches

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Panama’s Best Beaches


Panama may not exactly be known as a top international beach destination, but it does have more than 1,500 miles of coastline on both the Pacific and the Caribbean. While much of the coastline is made up of dense mangroves rather than picturesque white sand beaches, I lived in Panama for over a year and can attest to the fact that there are plenty of lovely–if somewhat underrated–beach destinations.

Bocas del Toro: With a couple of ramshackle, English Caribbean-style towns that seem to suffer from a severe dichotomy between the relatively wealthy expat community and a struggling, impoverished Afro-Caribbean and indigenous population, your initial reaction when visiting Bocas might be to ask yourself why this is one of Panama’s most popular beach destinations. However, despite this rather sad economic reality, Bocas is actually home to some of Panama’s most breathtaking beaches, including the dazzling “Cayos Zapatillos” two white-sand islands with crystal clear waters and excellent snorkeling and opportunities.  At Starfish Beach, hundreds of orange starfish dot the ocean floor. I recommend hiring a local boatman when visiting different beaches as a way to support the local community.

Kuna Yala: Also known as San Blas, these 365-plus (mostly uninhabited) islands offer crystal clear blue-green waters, tiny, palm tree-lined white sand islands and a traditional, strong willed people, the Kuna, who fiercely cling to their traditions and customs. In fact, foreigners are not even allowed to buy property anywhere on the Kuna Yala Island. The vast majority of lodging options here consist of thatched roof cabins with sand floors, no electricity or running water and few amenities. Because of the region’s isolation, most islands have no restaurants, bars or shops, so you’ll have to buy an all-inclusive package including mostly fish and rice meals. So while there may not be a thriving restaurant and bar scene, the Kuna Yala islands are the perfect spot to lay on a hammock, work on your tan and snorkel along the many coral reefs close to the shoreline.

Isla Coiba: Isla Coiba is often compared to the Galapagos Island because of its endemic species and unique ecosystem. In my opinion, Isla Coiba is Panama’s most pristine and gorgeous beach destination, but the Island receives relatively few visitors, not surprising considering there’s only a couple rustic cabins for lodging on the island and visiting can be expensive. But if money isn’t an issue, Isla Coiba is worth the hassle. Most likely, your tour company will arrange lodging at nearby Isla Coiba or right on the tour boat. Isla Coiba is considered one of the best diving and snorkeling spots in Central America.

Boca Chica: These aren’t the most beautiful beaches in the country – think beige sand, deep blue waters – but there’s something special about this rural region of Panama. On the Pacific side of the country, Boca Chica feels a bit like cowboy country. Men on horseback, verdant, rolling hills and miles upon miles of banana plantations dot the landscape and the climate here is hot and muggy — perfectly tropical, in other words! Boca Chica is home to some of the most beautiful eco lodges in the country and makes an ideal romantic getaway for couples because of its isolation.

The Pacific Beaches: These are definitely not Panama’s most impressive beaches, but the central Pacific coast is home to Panama’s most ambitious and upscale beach-side communities and all-inclusive resorts. The beaches here resemble those on the U.S mid Atlantic and have mostly brownish, medium grain sand and brown/green murky water with strong riptides that can make swimming dangerous for children and inexperienced swimmers. All that said, Pacific beaches such as Gorgona, Playa Blanca and Santa Clara make a perfectly pleasant day trip from Panama City, and if your idea of going to the beach includes staying at a full service (think multiple pools, restaurants, cocktails, nightly entertainment) all-inclusive resorts, you’ll be perfectly happy on Pacific beaches.

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Panama’s Island Paradise

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Panama’s Island Paradise


A San Blas Sunset.

The Comarca Kuna Yala — or the San Blas Islands as Panamanians call the islands — might not be as well known as other Caribbean destinations, but these 365 islands offer some of Latin America’s most pristine and unspoilt beaches. The water here is crystal clear and multi-colored, and palm trees and white sand beaches only add to the allure. Plus, visitors will have the opportunity to interact with the Kuna, Panama’s most traditional indigenous group, who bravely cling to their customs in an ever-globalizing world. The Kuna Yala Islands may technically be part of Panama, but the Kuna have an autonomous local government and make their own rules with little interference from the national government in Panama City.

Located off Panama’s Atlantic Coast and bordering Colombia, accommodations on the San Blas Islands tend to be rustic, though pickier travelers can head to the Coral Lodge (www.corallodge.com), a high-end eco-resort located just outside the Kuna Yala Comarca. Almost all accommodations include three meals a day, excursions to nearby beaches and islands and snorkeling gear. Travelers can expect to pay between $20 to $150 per person per night, depending on the type of accommodation. However, keep in mind that $20 a night won’t get you much more than a tiny beach-side cabana with a sand floor and shared bathroom. And several dozen guitar-playing, pot-smoking, beer-drinking backpackers.

Camping is an option on most islands and islets, as long as you ask the owner’s permission and pay a $1 tax. Most islands have at least one or two families that serve as care-takers, but aside from talking to other campers and day visitors, travelers should know that they will be confined to an island the size of a football field with no nightlife, restaurants or shop — although your Kuna hosts will probably sell cold beer and rum. And there is also the option of having your meals delivered by boat. However, if lying in hammock watching the sunset is your idea of a good time (and who’s isn’t it?), then this a perfectly acceptable option.

Kuna woman. Photo courtesy of Sandra Leidholdt

Personally, my favorite hotel on the Comarca is the Kuna-Niskua Lodge (www.kuna-niskua.com). There’s no A/C and you shouldn’t expect 400 count sheets — or even a great mattress for that matter — but rooms and bathrooms are clean and well-maintained. Orlando, the friendly manager, is informative and talkative, and does his best to make sure his guests are comfortable. Plus, his pal Alberto will be more than happy to take you fishing all day long for the price of fuel, as long as he’s not busy with other guests.  Orlando and Alberto take guests out to daily excursions like Isla Perro, with it’s impressive coral reefs, colorful schools fish and offshore sunken ship. Diving isn’t allowed anywhere on the Comarca, so visitors will have to make do with snorkeling.

But my favorite thing about the Kuna-Niskua Hotel is that it’s situated on Wishub-Wala, an authentic Kuna Island Village. Many of the Islands’ lodging options are located on sparsely populated islands that allow little interaction with Kuna families, but Isla Wishub-Wala is home to some 50 families living in traditional thatched-roof huts, women who wear colorful, traditional, hand-embroidered clothing andchildren who still speak their native Kuna language, making it one of the most unique lodging experiences you’re likely to experience.

There are two options to get to the Kuna Islands. The first option is to take a 20-minute flight from Panama City, which should cost you $120-$150 round trip. Air Panama (www.flyairpanama.com) and Aeroperlas (www.aeroperlas.com) both offer flights several times a week. If you are somewhat more adventurous traveler, you can hire a driver to take you down for $50 roundtrip in a 4-wheel drive. Your driver will probably drop you off at the Porvenir, where a cayuco (wooden canoe) will most likely be waiting to take you to your hotel. Be forewarned that choosing to drive down means you’ll have to cross a sometimes flooded river and you may have to make half the journey down to the islands in a motorized cayuco. I’ve made the journey both way and prefer going by land — there’s nothing like an impromptu jungle river cruise.

For more information on scenic locations in Panama, check out my articles on El Valle and Boquete.

Kuna-Niskua Hotel Manager Orlando taking tourists to Isla Perro. Photo Courtesy of Stephen Tighe.

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