Few cities capture the imagination like Cartagena. This sultry, romantic city on the Atlantic is an open air museum of the best of Spanish colonial architecture and is Colombia’s most popular and beloved vacation destination. The walled city was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984, and walking its flower-strewn balconies, elegant plazas and cobblestoned streets might make you feel like you’ve stepped back a few centuries to the time of the conquistadores. Or at least onto a telenovela set. Either way, there’s something magical about Cartagena.

But before you go thinking Cartagena is paradise on earth, there are few things to keep in mind: Sure, being the tourism capital of Colombia is an honor, but this means Cartagena is more expensive than just about anywhere in Colombia. If you want a romantic meal in one of Cartagena’s many plazas, expect to pay at least $20 per person and don’t expect to find too many bargains when it comes to souvenir shopping. Because the city managed to escape most of the violence of the ‘80s and ‘90s, there are plenty of foreigners in Cartagena, which means street vendors and musicians have perfected their trade in multiple languages. In other words, claiming not to speak Spanish won’t help your cause much. If you’re dining in one of the main plazas and want to escape a dinnertime serenade, I recommend you avoid eye contact with anyone holding a guitar. Also, watch out for pickpockets and keep your guard up outside the old city at night.

That said, throw on your sarong, put on your sunglasses, and start exploring!

Tip: If you want to save money, consider staying and dining in Getsemani, outside the walled city. This working class neighborhood has a reputation for being dangerous, but as a woman traveling alone, I never had any problems here. You can find hotel rooms here with A/C, cable TV and a private bath for the equivalent of US$15 and some great restaurants running about 50% cheaper than those in the old city. There are modern lodging option in Boca Grande and el Laguito, Cartagena’s Miami-esque new town.

Day 1

Wake up early and head to the walled city. The best way to get a feel for Cartagena is to simply stroll through its narrow streets, get coffee at one of its outdoor cafes and people watch at one of its many plazas, but those looking for a more formal itinerary can follow the plan below:

Start your Cartagena walk-through at the Plaza de Los Coches, one of Cartagena’s most historic plazas, and stock up on traditional Cartagena sweets at the Portal de Los Dulces. Next, walk toward the Plaza de San Pedro and visit the Iglesia de San Pedro Claver, which also operates as a museum. If you’re into modern art, you won’t want to miss the Museo de Arte Moderno just a couple blocks from the plaza. And if you’re into naval history, you may want to pay a visit to the Museo Naval off of Calle Juan de Dios. After you’ve had enough of antique nautical instruments, take Calle A. Ricaurte to la Plaza de Bolivar, one of my favorite plazas in the walled city (keep in mind that Calle A. Ricaurte turns into Calle Santa Teresa). Here you can visit attractions such as the recently remodeled Cathedral, the Museo del Oro and the Palacio de La Inquisicion. At the Plaza de Santo Domingo, visit the Iglesia y Claustro Santo Domingo. If you’re hungry, this is a good place to grab lunch.

After lunch, walk on toward Plaza de San Diego, one of Cartagena’s prettiest plazas. If you’re in the mood to buy souvenirs, walk down Calle de Las Bovedas to Las Bovedas, an old jail now boasting 23 souvenir shops.

If you’re still feeling energetic and ambitious, ask your hotel to book a tour for you on a chiva, a traditional, colorful wooden bus, to see some of the sites outside the walled city. Your chiva includes a bilingual guide (bilingual being subjective here) and entrance to several attractions such as the Castillo de San Felipe de Barejas and El Convento de La Popa, both of which offer great views of Cartagena. If, for some unlikely reason, your hotel doesn’t offer chiva tours, head to the tourism office at La Plaza de La Aduana, which will be able to book a tour for you.

Next, head back to your hotel for a late afternoon siesta before heading back to La Plaza de Santo Domingo for a seafood dinner on one of the Americas’ oldest plazas. Yes, there are too many vendors and musicians and the food is horribly over priced, but who doesn’t want to say they ate dinner in a 500 year-old plaza?

If you’re feeling particularly festive, I recommend booking a rumba chiva, which will give you a tour of Cartagena at night with a party twist: All the aguardient, rum, fried yucca and fried plantain that you want, before dropping you off at a night club to really get the party started. There’s usually a bilingual guide and traditional Vallenato band on board, and most Rumba Chivas stop to take in traditional Cartagena dances such as the Mapale and Cumbia, which showcase Cartagena’s rich African heritage. Again, most rumba chivas can be booked by your hotel or at the tourism office at La Plaza de La Aduana.

Day 2

Cartagena’s beaches are loud, busy and decidedly unspectacular, so I recommend booking a tour to Las Islas del Rosario just off the coast of Cartagena. Las Islas del Rosario are a small archipelago of islands that offer much nicer, quieter beaches. A day tour almost always includes a dolphin show, snorkeling, a typical Cartagena lunch of fried fish and coconut rice and a couple hours on Playa Baru, an attractive, white sand beach with a lovely jungle backdrop.

You’ll probably be worn out when you get back to your hotel around 5pm, so take a quick nap before heading off to dinner. To celebrate your last night in the city, indulge yourself in a delicious, avant-garde seafood dinner el Club de Pesca, one of Cartagena’s most exclusive and expensive restaurants. Situated in a 300 year-old fort overlooking the Cartagena marina and its many impressive yachts, this romantic, picturesque restaurant is the perfect ending to your Cartagena vacation.

For additional information on Colombia, check out my articles on Bogota’s neighborhoods and Bogota’s cafe culture.

A typical Villa de Leyva street.

It may be overpriced and overdone, but it’s hard to deny that there’s something special about Villa de Leyva, Colombia’s favorite colonial small town. I tend to stay away from destinations on the beaten path, but Villa De Leyva brings me back over and over.  Here, you’ll find Colombia’s largest cobblestoned plaza surrounded by untouched colonial churches and buildings, framed by arid mountains and surrounded by picturesque, narrow streets, cozy restaurants, pastry shops and impressive mountainside fincas. So whether you’re in Colombia for a couple weeks or long-term, pack up your weekend suitcase and discover one of Colombia’s most charming destinations.

When to Go

Villa de Leyva has sunny, spring-like weather all year round, but December through March is the sunniest, warmest time. On weekends and holidays, Villa de Leyva comes to life with Bogotanos escaping the busy city, but during the week, things quiet down and Villa de Leyva reverts to its sleepy, old-time self, where you’ll find men and women wearing traditional ruanas (shawls) and hats, and life seems to go on as it has for 100 years. If you want to see the authentic Villa de Leyva, a weekday visit is best, but if you want to be in town when things are popping, I recommend heading to town during one of Bogota’s many puentes, or holiday weekends.  If possible, don’t miss the weekly farmer’s market, held every Saturday on the main plaza.

Getting there

The easiest way to get to Villa de Leyva is to take a Transmilenio to the Portal del Norte and walk over to the Exito.  Buses heading toward Tunja (2.5 hours; COL$17,000/US$8.50) pass by every 15 minutes or so. At Tunja, you’ll have to transfer to a smaller bus headed to Villa de Leyva (45 minutes; COL$5,500/US$2.75).   There are a few buses a day that go directly to Villa de Leyva from el Terminal de buses, but you’ll want to call ahead to confirm departure times (+57 1-423-3600; Diagonal 23 No.69-65).

Where to Stay

Whenever I got to Villa de Leyva, I stay at the Renacer Hostel (+57 8 732-1379; Mobile 311 308-3739).  It’s about 1 KM outside of town and is situated on a tranquil hillside overlooking the Villa de Leyva valley.  The hostel is run by Oscar Gilede, a young biologist who also runs Colombian Highlands, which offers hiking, rappelling and horseback riding tours in the Villa de Leyva area.  Even though the hostel is a bit of a walk from town, the energy feels right and the colonial-style farmhouse attracts a diverse group of travelers.  There’s a group dining area, a camping area, dorms and private rooms,  a TV room, Internet and breakfast for COL$5,000/US$2.50.  The hostel fosters an air of comradery among guests and it’s not uncommon for someone to pull out a guitar or share a tasty meal with new friends.

If you want to be closer to town, La Roca, (+57 8 732-0331)  offers doubles for about COL$90,000/US$45.000 and is located right on the plaza. Travelers looking for more upscale lodging will want to head to El Duruelo  (+57 8 732-0222). Although rooms are not particularly luxurious, the hotel has gorgeous gardens and a spectacular pool.

However, it’s hard to go wrong when it comes to lodging in Villa de Leyva, as nearly all hotels and hostels are housed in traditional, colonial era homes that ooze charm.  Unless you’re visiting on a holiday weekend, it’s not necessary to book ahead of time.

The Renacer Hostel, located on the outskirts of Villa de Leyva.

Where to Eat and Drink

Those looking for more upscale dining options will want to head to Casa Quintero on the corner of the plaza by the main cathedral. Inside you’ll find about half a dozen elegant restaurants serving up mostly international fare. Restaurants around the plaza offer the best in terms of people watching, but tend to be more expensive than those on the side streets. For whatever reason, pizza seems to be a particularly popular option in Villa.

Villa de Leyva can’t compete with Bogota in terms of nightlife, but the Villa afterhours scene has charms of its own.  Rather than head to a bar or club, locals and tourists alike hang out around the church steps and indulge in beer and aguardiente. Soon enough, everyone’s become fast friends and the plaza is converted into an outdoor bar. Of course, there are plenty of places to get a beer or two, but when in Rome…

If you’re in Villa de Leyva during the week, you won’t find much of a party scene.

What to Do

In my opinion, the ultimate Villa de Leyva plan is to stroll the cobblestoned streets, dine at one its quaint restaurants, and enjoy a long afternoon siesta in your hotel hammock. However, those wanting a more active city break have their choice of outdoor fun, such as horseback riding, hiking and rappelling. Known as the El desierto, or the desert, Villa de Leyva’s surroundings are a stark contrast to Colombia’s typically colorful and vegetated landscapes.  However, there is an undeniable beauty in Villa’s arid hills and desert vegetation.

Villa de Leyva is famous for its archealogical sites and ostrich farm, so just ask your hotel concierge for a map and suggestions.  Outdoor enthusiasts will want to book a tour with Guias y Travesias (+57 8 732-0742) or Colombian Highlands (+57 8 732 1379).

For more information on Bogota, check out its safest neighborhoods and cafe culture.

Villa de Leyva is a popular hiking spot for outdoor enthusiasts.