Bogota’s historic district, consisting of La Candelaria and La Plaza de Bolivar, has served as the country’s cultural engine for nearly 500 years. Its colorful, one-story homes have mostly been converted into cafes, restaurants and bars, but La Candelaria was once home to Bogota’s first European settlers. There are half a dozen universities here, and the neighborhood caters to an intellectual, bohemian and international crowd. However, La Candelaria is also home to a significant working class and homeless population, making it one of Bogota’s most economically diverse neighborhoods. Aside from its many museums and attractions, La Candelaria boasts a lively bar and restaurant scene, some beautifully restored houses, as well as some sadly dilapidated buildings that have seen better days. All in all, however, La Candelaria is Bogota’s historic and cultural center and can’t be missed. Keep in mind that there are dozens of museums and attractions in La Candelaria and only a few are mentioned below. If you’re interested in exploring more of the area’s sites and attractions, check out: www.lacandelaria.info. The site’s in Spanish, but provides a lot of useful information on museums, churches, historic houses and attractions in La Candelaria.

A typical pre-Columbian gold piece at the Museo del Oro

Start your day at El Museo del Oro, perhaps Colombia’s most famous museum. With almost 35,000 pieces of gold from the pre-Columbian era, I recommend taking a tour. English language guided tours are available at 11am and 3pm, but self-guided audio tours are available all day. Be prepared to be dazzled by the “gold room,” with its almost 10,000 pieces of gold objects. El Museo del Oro is located on Calle 16 with Carrera 7, and hours are Tuesday-Saturday 9am-6pm and Sunday 10am-4pm. Admission is COL$3,000 (US$1.50).

After properly exploring El Museo del Oro, walk south along La Septima, one of Bogota’s oldest and most important avenues, until you reach La Plaza de Bolivar, Bogota’s historic city center dating back to 1539. Here, travelers can visit the colonial-style Museo del 20 de Julio, also known as La Casa del Florero, on the northeastern most corner of the plaza. Colombia’s war for independence began here, and visitors can enjoy browsing objects dating back to Colombia’s colonial/independence period.  The museum is open from 9am-4:30pm Tuesday through Friday and 10am-3:30pm Saturdays and Sundsays. Admission is COL$3,000 (US$1.50). Other plaza attractions include Bogota’s Catedral Primaria, a rather somber Baroque-inspired cathedral, the impressive neoclassical Capitolio and the Palacio de Justicia, rebuilt after the 1985 M-19 guerilla bombing that killed 55 people. In the middle of plaza, visitors will find a statue of Simon Bolivar.  If anything, the Plaza de Bolivar provides a brief but intense history into Colombian history and architecture.

Next, head north toward La Candelaria, Bogota’s charismatic if slightly seedy colonial quarter.  The best way to see La Candelaria is to simply stroll through the quarter’s narrow streets, but some must-sees include the Museo Botero (Calle 11 #4-21; Monday through Saturday 9am-7pm, Sundays 10am-5pm; free admission), which houses the largest collection of Botero paintings and sculptures in the world. Next, head over to the small but impressive Italian Renaissance-inspired Teatro Colon (Calle 10 #5-32; 10am-5pm Tuesday to Saturday and Sunday 1pm-5pm; admission COL$8,000 (US$4), Bogota’s oldest and most prestigious theater which often hosts ballets, concerts and theater productions.

Bogota was officially founded  El Chorro de Quevedo, around Carrera 1 and Calle 13. Here, travelers will find Bogota’s most bohemian, tattooed and alternative crowd, specialized in playing the bongos and selling inexpensive jewelry and handicrafts. There is a funky cobblestoned street to the north of the plaza, filled with hole-in-the-wall bars, artesania markets and tiny restaurants and cafes.  It gets a bit seedy here at night, so I recommend visiting el Chorro de Quevedo during the day if you’re on your own.

Chocolate con queso and tamal at La Puerta Falsa.

If you’re feeling hungry, I recommend heading back toward La Plaza de Bolivar to La Puerta Falsa (Calle 11 #6-50; Mon-Sat 7am-11pm), Bogota’s oldest restaurant and Colombia’s longest operating business, dating back to 1816. This cozy, intimate restaurant/café specializes in tamales, a typical Bogota dish made with corn flour, chicken and vegetables and wrapped in a banana leaf, and also serves up Chocolate con Queso (hot chocolate with cheese) and dozens of tasty, typical Colombian treats.

After a lunch of tamales and hot chocolate, walk toward Calle 20 and Carrera 2 to the Quinta de Bolivar, at the foot of Monserrate, was the Bogota home of Simon Bolivar and his long-time mistress Manuelita de Saenz.  Now a museum, visitors will get too see many of Bolivar’s and Saenz’s original belongings. Finally, head to Monserrate, one of Bogota’s highest peaks, and home to the Santuario de Monserrate and the fallen Christ. In addition to the church, there are several souvenir shops and restaurants atop Monserrate, as well as sweeping views of Bogota. Monserrate can be reached by train or cable car at 2E #21-48 and costs COL$12,000 (US$6) before 5:30 and COL$15,000 (US$7.50) after 5:30.  English and Spainsh language information about Monserrate can be found at: www.cerromonserrate.com. Make a dinner time reservation at Casa Santa Clara, one of Bogota’s finest French restaurants, and watch the sunset over Bogota.

For more information on Bogota, check out articles on the neighborhoods of Bogota, and Bogota’s cafe culture.

A typical Villa de Leyva street.

It may be overpriced and overdone, but it’s hard to deny that there’s something special about Villa de Leyva, Colombia’s favorite colonial small town. I tend to stay away from destinations on the beaten path, but Villa De Leyva brings me back over and over.  Here, you’ll find Colombia’s largest cobblestoned plaza surrounded by untouched colonial churches and buildings, framed by arid mountains and surrounded by picturesque, narrow streets, cozy restaurants, pastry shops and impressive mountainside fincas. So whether you’re in Colombia for a couple weeks or long-term, pack up your weekend suitcase and discover one of Colombia’s most charming destinations.

When to Go

Villa de Leyva has sunny, spring-like weather all year round, but December through March is the sunniest, warmest time. On weekends and holidays, Villa de Leyva comes to life with Bogotanos escaping the busy city, but during the week, things quiet down and Villa de Leyva reverts to its sleepy, old-time self, where you’ll find men and women wearing traditional ruanas (shawls) and hats, and life seems to go on as it has for 100 years. If you want to see the authentic Villa de Leyva, a weekday visit is best, but if you want to be in town when things are popping, I recommend heading to town during one of Bogota’s many puentes, or holiday weekends.  If possible, don’t miss the weekly farmer’s market, held every Saturday on the main plaza.

Getting there

The easiest way to get to Villa de Leyva is to take a Transmilenio to the Portal del Norte and walk over to the Exito.  Buses heading toward Tunja (2.5 hours; COL$17,000/US$8.50) pass by every 15 minutes or so. At Tunja, you’ll have to transfer to a smaller bus headed to Villa de Leyva (45 minutes; COL$5,500/US$2.75).   There are a few buses a day that go directly to Villa de Leyva from el Terminal de buses, but you’ll want to call ahead to confirm departure times (+57 1-423-3600; Diagonal 23 No.69-65).

Where to Stay

Whenever I got to Villa de Leyva, I stay at the Renacer Hostel (+57 8 732-1379; Mobile 311 308-3739).  It’s about 1 KM outside of town and is situated on a tranquil hillside overlooking the Villa de Leyva valley.  The hostel is run by Oscar Gilede, a young biologist who also runs Colombian Highlands, which offers hiking, rappelling and horseback riding tours in the Villa de Leyva area.  Even though the hostel is a bit of a walk from town, the energy feels right and the colonial-style farmhouse attracts a diverse group of travelers.  There’s a group dining area, a camping area, dorms and private rooms,  a TV room, Internet and breakfast for COL$5,000/US$2.50.  The hostel fosters an air of comradery among guests and it’s not uncommon for someone to pull out a guitar or share a tasty meal with new friends.

If you want to be closer to town, La Roca, (+57 8 732-0331)  offers doubles for about COL$90,000/US$45.000 and is located right on the plaza. Travelers looking for more upscale lodging will want to head to El Duruelo  (+57 8 732-0222). Although rooms are not particularly luxurious, the hotel has gorgeous gardens and a spectacular pool.

However, it’s hard to go wrong when it comes to lodging in Villa de Leyva, as nearly all hotels and hostels are housed in traditional, colonial era homes that ooze charm.  Unless you’re visiting on a holiday weekend, it’s not necessary to book ahead of time.

The Renacer Hostel, located on the outskirts of Villa de Leyva.

Where to Eat and Drink

Those looking for more upscale dining options will want to head to Casa Quintero on the corner of the plaza by the main cathedral. Inside you’ll find about half a dozen elegant restaurants serving up mostly international fare. Restaurants around the plaza offer the best in terms of people watching, but tend to be more expensive than those on the side streets. For whatever reason, pizza seems to be a particularly popular option in Villa.

Villa de Leyva can’t compete with Bogota in terms of nightlife, but the Villa afterhours scene has charms of its own.  Rather than head to a bar or club, locals and tourists alike hang out around the church steps and indulge in beer and aguardiente. Soon enough, everyone’s become fast friends and the plaza is converted into an outdoor bar. Of course, there are plenty of places to get a beer or two, but when in Rome…

If you’re in Villa de Leyva during the week, you won’t find much of a party scene.

What to Do

In my opinion, the ultimate Villa de Leyva plan is to stroll the cobblestoned streets, dine at one its quaint restaurants, and enjoy a long afternoon siesta in your hotel hammock. However, those wanting a more active city break have their choice of outdoor fun, such as horseback riding, hiking and rappelling. Known as the El desierto, or the desert, Villa de Leyva’s surroundings are a stark contrast to Colombia’s typically colorful and vegetated landscapes.  However, there is an undeniable beauty in Villa’s arid hills and desert vegetation.

Villa de Leyva is famous for its archealogical sites and ostrich farm, so just ask your hotel concierge for a map and suggestions.  Outdoor enthusiasts will want to book a tour with Guias y Travesias (+57 8 732-0742) or Colombian Highlands (+57 8 732 1379).

For more information on Bogota, check out its safest neighborhoods and cafe culture.

Villa de Leyva is a popular hiking spot for outdoor enthusiasts.

I am currently sitting in Diletto Café in La Zona G, Bogota’s upscale dining district enjoying a café latte and American-style brownie. Executives in expensive-looking suits and bohemian students are chatting over cappuccinos or hunched over laptops, taking advantage of the free Wi-Fi. There are soft coffee shop beats playing in the background and the energy seems right.

Coffee is Colombia’s second best known export and café culture is a big part of day-to-day life in Bogota.  As an expat living in Bogota, I am constantly discovering fantastic new coffee shops and absolutely love the fact that Starbucks isn’t my only option. Tinto can be bought just about anywhere; in fact, even a sidewalk vendor will be glad to sell you a cup of black coffee. There are plenty of great neighborhood coffee shops in Colombia’s capital, ranging from inexpensive cigarrerias to high-end European-style cafes.   So if you’re in Bogota for a couple of days (or long-term) you may want to check out some of my favorite spots below.

Diletto Café (www.dilettocafe.com) has half a dozen cafés scattered throughout Bogota.  My personal favorite is the Zona G branch on Calle 70 with Carrera 5. Authors Bookstore, an English-language bookstore with the largest selection of English language fiction and non-fiction titles is located right next door, convenient for those who want to read a book while they sip their cappuccino. Diletto’s in La Zona G has a nice outdoor patio and free Wi-Fi.

Juan Valdez (www.juanvaldez.com) is one of Colombia’s biggest coffee chains and is named after the mythical Juan Valdez himself. There are over a dozen branches in Bogota, my favorites being the Parque 93 and Museo del Oro locales. Here, coffee drinkers will find everything from plain old tinto to skim milk caramel frapaccinos topped with whip cream to iced mocha lattes. Juan Valdez only provides customers with a 30 minute Internet voucher card, so you might want to head somewhere else if you’d like to get some work done while enjoying a hot cup of coffee.

La Boheme (Calle 27 Carrera 5) is a tiny but cozy café in the trendy Macarena neighborhood and serves up some great milkshakes. It maybe small, but La Boheme delivers when it comes to ambience. The décor channels 1920s Paris and Milan and the staff are friendly and greet customers on a first name basis.  There’s an internet café upstairs and free Wi-Fi for those with their own laptops.

Café del Sol (Calle 14 Carrera 3) One of my hands down favorites, Café del Sol is a popular meeting place for college students and professors. It offers a large variety of hot and cold coffee drinks and baked goods. Café del Sol has a tendency to play 1960s and 70s Latin pop, but its location in a beautifully renovated colonial-era house in La Candelaria more than makes up for this. Plus, the free Wi-Fi makes it a good work spot.

Café Estacion del Tren (Calle 14 Carrera 4) If you are seeking a truely unique café experience, Café Estacion del Tren has what you’re looking for. The café is housed in an old train cart and is a great spot to indulge in Bogota’s favorite afternoon snack:  Chocolate Santafereano con queso y pan (hot chocolate with cheese and bread). The inside of the cart is decorated with black and white pictures of historic Bogota and the café fills up in the afternoons.

For more on Bogota, check out safe neighborhoods of Bogota and Bogota’s historical district.

By Patrick Connelly

“You live were!?” is usually the first question I get when I tell North Americans that I live in Colombia.  Yes, Colombia, the land of Pablo Escobar, cocaine, bombs, and kidnappings.  Yes, Colombia, the land of Marxist guerrillas and right wing death squads.  Yes, Colombia, the land that in 1994 had a soccer player shot a dozen times for making a mistake in the World Cup.

But the real Colombia is not like this.  It is far from the violent images seen on television around the world.

The last six years have seen a turnaround in public safety that can only be described as remarkable.  Conservative president Alvaro Uribe, whose father was murdered by guerrillas, has turned a country that a decade ago was disintegrating into one of relative peace and stability.

But what about travel and living in Colombia?  This is a complex question, and since safety is involved, generalizations cannot be made.

The Big Three: Bogotá, Medellin, Cali

Chances are most travellers, and certainly expats and retirees, will end up in one, if not all, of Colombia’s largest three cities at some point.  But are they safe?

Bogotá- The largest city at around 8 million, the capital is the business, government, and education heart of the country.  If common sense is used, it is no more dangerous than any other large city in North America or Europe.  The eastern half of the city, including the main tourist areas, is comfortably safe during the day and common sense will keep the gringo safe at night (stay in groups, no dark alleys, use taxis, etc.).  However, the western half of the city – Cuidad Bolivar – is a sprawling mess of flavelas that is certainly not safe.  Ever. Luckily, there is not much of interest for the gringo here anyway.

Medellin- The city of eternal spring was not too long ago the city of eternal violence.  Murder capital of the world, kidnapping capital of the world, and a host of other accolades no one wants made Medellin (that’s Med-eh-jean) a definite no-go unless you were George Jung, the gringo drug runner played by Johnny Depp in Blow. However, it is now one of the safest cities in South America, with a murder rate of 32 per 100,00 residents.  Thats lower than Washington, D.C. and Detriot.  Plus paisas are incredible people and Medellin is fast becoming a beautiful place to visit.  Again, the same precautions used in any large city apply here.

Cali- The salsa capital of Colombia is, like the other two main cities, a relatively safe and enjoyable place as long as common sense is used.  Wallet in the front pocket, no fancy jewelry or watches, stay with groups during the night…you get the picture.  Always ask around as well for safe and secure areas to visit.

La Costa

This, of course, is Colombia’s tourist, retiree, and expat destination of choice.  And for good reason; whtie sand beaches, Cartagena, and the carefree attitude of Costeños makes a trip here memorable for years.  But where there are tourists, there are most likely pickpocketers..

Cartagena- Widely regarded as South America’s most beautiful city, Carta has been pushed hard as a tourist destination by the Colombian government for some time now.  The result is a good tourism infrastructure, security, and enough people to help if trouble does arise.  That said, small time thieves do target the gringo crowds, and expensive jewelry and watches, large purses, and the like should be left at home.  Also, there are many moneychangers on the streets-its best to avoid them as forgeries are common.  The further out of the city’s center one ventures, the more likely he is to run into trouble.  Many out of work soldiers (from guerrilla groups and right wing militias) live in the area and some resort to petty crime to make ends meet.  That said, Cartagena is a true jewel of the Western hemisphere and with normal precautions is pretty safe.

The rest of the country

Few tourists venture outside the main cities and the Caribbean coast, but those who do are richly rewarded.  However, some areas are dangerous for foreigners, and some are downright off limits.

Boyaca- A popular weekend destination for foreigners and Bogota residents alike, the department of Boyaca is called the heart of Colombia.  Villa de Leyva is its crown, a perfect Spanish colonial city high in the mountains.  And even more, it is a pretty safe place to visit.

The Southern Departments- The mountains give way to pastures and rainforest that stretch beyond the horizon.  This is wild Colombia- and part of the country foreigners should ignore or take extreme caution in.  Pickpocketing at gunpoint is the least of your problems here, as the rebel groups and drug cartels have been pushed into this region and make money by kidnapping gringos and Colombians alike.  If you want rainforest, fly from any  major Colombian city to Leticia, on the border with Brazil.  The town has a well developed tourism infrastructure.  If you want to be brave, go for it, but just about every Colombian I know would think thrice before travelling to departments like Putumayo, Buenaventura, and deep into Meta.

Conclusion

The safety situation in Colombia is very complicated and changes on a daily basis.  But it also overblown in many areas – people seem to reiterate the fact that they got mugged in Colombia!, while if it happened in London it would be written off as just a bad apple in the bunch.  Keeping to the main tourist areas, remaining alert, and staying in a small group should be more than enough to keep the average foreigner safe in the large cities and along the coast.

Colombia is certainly not without major problems, even though the country has improved drastically.  But it is an amazing country with colorful people, top notch attractions, and a real wild side.  Don’t let the horror stories or news programs scare you off; while crime does happen, it also happens in every country in the world.  True, Colombia is more dangerous than, say, Costa Rica, but on the other hand you aren’t coming into an all out warzone like some people would like to make you believe.

One week in Colombia and you will realize how wrong the stereotype is.

Have a different opinion? Additional safety information or updates? Please post them here, we’d love to hear from you.

photo provided by Rob Raincock at http://www.flickr.com/photos/30853953@N03/3033264799/

By Patrick Connelly

Colombia is a country of stark contrasts: Rugged Andes peaks and lush rainforest valleys, modern cities and Spanish colonial villages, hot Caribbean beaches and snowy mountains.  Best of all, much of the country is untouched by the tourist and expat industry because of the country’s less than reputable past.  With so little literature out there about Colombia (Lonely Planet has the only book, and it is an admitted fraud), knowing where and what to do can be challenging.  Throw in the ever present security question, and the planning process is downright frustrating. Here are my top five places to go in Colombia.  I could go on, but gotta keep it short.  If you have anything to add, please do so below.

1. Cartagena – No-brainer.  Every Colombian will tell you the same.  This is a jewel not only for Colombia, but for the entire continent.  Centuries of history (pirates rock), whitewashed Spanish architecture, cool Caribbean breeze, crazy nightlife, beautiful people….I could go on.  A few too many tourists and half of Bogota comes to visit on holidays, but still a place you can’t miss.  Plus it is a good base for exploring the coast (or substitute Santa Marta, if you wish)

Bogota offers tons of sightseeing options

2. Medellin and Bogota- Lumped these two together since time outdoors is time well spent in Colombia.  Bogota is a high-fashion business and education center with ample history, sites to visit, and a nightlife to rival any city in South America.  Check out Candelaria in the city center for museums as well as Andres Carne de Res in nearby Chia for a night you will never forget.  Alse servers as a jumping off point to visit the historic Boyaca department to the north.

Medellin is the city of eternal spring, full of proud paisas and blooming flowers.  Smaller and more asthetically pleasing than Bogota, it can be reached by a short, short plane from the capital or by bus.

3. Parque Tayrona- Nestled against the Caribbean and bordered by small mountains, Tayrona National Park offers deserted beaches fringed by jungle, coral reefs, deep bays, and an established visitors infrastructure. Also within striking distance of of Ciudad Perdida, the Lost City, which every adventure-minded person should experience.

4.Mompos (Mompox)- The town that time forgot, stuck in a giant swamp in the northeastern part of the country.  Famous for hospitality and rocking chairs, this is supposedly the town that Gabriel Garcia Marquez based Macondo off of in One Hundred Years of Solitude. Getting there is an adventure of its own…don’t miss this place!  You will be happily surprised.

The Amazon is a nature lover's dream

5. The Amazon- Definitely not for everyone, the southern town of Leticia offers endless rainforest adventure.  Forget what you saw in Costa Rica; the Amazon is another world.  Truly awe-inspiring.

Honorable Mention: San Andres and Providencia- Wayyyyyy up in the Caribbean by Honduras, these two islands are the sort of funky, mixed-bag cultural paradoxes that you expect to find in El Caribe.  Beautiful, duty-free, and less developed and cheaper than other Caribbean islands.

Front photo provided by Marathoniano at http://www.flickr.com/photos/24462866@N00/3058453915/

second photo provided by Kingstongal at http://www.flickr.com/photos/kingstongal/2133699876/

To find Colombia real estate, you can check out VivaReal. They have Cartagena real estate like beachfront apartments or inland you will find Bogota real estate and medellin real estate.