By Liz Small

Contributing writer to LatinWorld.com

Please look before you leap.

After reviewing the many articles that are available on the Internet on the subject of relocating to Panama and discussing the subject with friends and neighbors, we (a handful of full time Panama expat residents) thought we would try to present a realistic view of the “Good, the Bad, and the Ugly” of this major life style decision.

The Good

Depending on your choice of location in Panama, you will find the beaches and the beautiful oceans close at hand.  They are typically warm but breezy, thoroughly refreshing, and relatively clean.  Speaking of water, that which is intended for consumption, is fresh, pure, and entirely drinkable.  There are areas, however, where thoughtless use of pesticides has resulted in the need for the installation of home purification systems.

If gardening is your thing (or even if your prefer to just supervise), you will find an amazing array of tropical flowers (with orchids being particularly hardy and with many varieties available) and trees to plant throughout the year – different things during the two seasons, the rainy and dry months.  The climate consists of these two periods, both lasting approximately 6 months.  The dry season (or summer) starts in late December, early January and ends in mid May.  The rainy season (or winter) gets going around mid May and lasts until mid to late December.  Typically, a day in the rainy season begins with the sun out and clear skies. Then in the early afternoon, there is rain for an hour or so, and then the sun reappears.  Temperatures throughout the year (again depending on location) only vary 10 degrees or so (75-85 degrees during the day), the dry season being the higher.  The climate encourages a particularly lush environment which, in turn, provides the perfect habitat for a host of colorful birds, native animals, and exotic looking – some say “beautiful” – insects!

We have all found these things (the proximity to great beaches and oceans, the ability to be surrounded by a vibrant landscape while enjoying the magnificent weather) have greatly contributed to an easy adjustment to life in Panama.  Helping as well are the great roads which lead to many interesting sites and cities, the moderate cost of living, and the ability to meet and enjoy the Panamanian people.

The Bad

Favorite pastimes (reading best sellers, knitting, gourmet cooking, chatting endlessly with family members on the phone, or even receiving letters) sometimes have to be finessed or eliminated altogether.  Bring a good supply of books in the language of your choice – unless it’s Spanish, then “no problemo” – and encourage guests to bring some along with them when they come for a visit.  Ditto any special hobby needs or exotic ingredients which may be in short supply or unavailable altogether!  Better get hooked up on Skype or some other communication modality and be email literate.  Calling internationally and receiving mail is pricey!

Before you buy a piece of ground to begin to have your dream house built, please take into consideration the following:  the “ mañana” factor!  Everything goes at a slower pace here and there is no sense of urgency.  If you have left your ability to be patient wherever you have moved from, please go back and get it.  If you were never a patient person to begin with, please think long and hard about building versus buying an existing spec house or resale.   Retrofitting an existing structure is much easier than building from scratch.  Ask folks who have “been there, done that” and you will soon discover the wisdom of this advice.  By the way, those folks you asked for advice, they are your new “family” so try to listen carefully to what they are telling you and profit from their experience.  After you have listened and actually followed what they have told you and saved yourself no end of pain and expense, not to mention aggravation, have them over for dinner as a way of saying “Thanks”!   They may become your new best friends!

The Ugly

Have you have started to think Panama is synonymous with Utopia?  There are a few challenges of which you must be aware.  Traffic in Panama City can be daunting.  The lack of street signs combined with the curious driving habits of the cab drivers can often result in a hair-raising experience.  Are you used to having everything available at all times and in close proximity?  Unless you choose to live in Panama City, you will not enjoy that luxury.  Many  items (produce and paper goods to name two) have to be imported and therefore will not always be on the grocery store shelf and will be a bit more expensive due to importing costs.  We have a saying in Panama: “If you see it and want it, buy it!”  It may not be there the next time you go looking.  Also, there is a suspicion that some manufacturers send goods they would not be able to market elsewhere to Panama.  Quality can be an elusive characteristic.

Bienvenidos a Panama!

front photo provided by ethantate at http://www.flickr.com/photos/ethantate/2750089356/

first photo provided by seracat at http://www.flickr.com/photos/mserarolsbcn/3370563337/

second photo provided by Alexander H.m: Cascone at http://www.flickr.com/photos/cascone/1295936293/

The fourth in a series of articles comparing Central America’s two leading expat and retiree destinations.  Costa Rica is the more established of the two, but Panama is the upstart new kid on the block with a full head of steam and a pocket full of dollars.  Who will come out on top? Read more and find out.

Click here for Round 1: Retirement Benefits

Click here for Round 2: Climate

Click here for Round 3: People and Culture

Round 4: Things to do

If you are going to pack up (or sell) everything and move to Central America, you might as well go somewhere where there is stuff to do; after all, you can only sit on the porch and drink so many margaritas before it becomes mundane (or does it…).  In this matchup, the cultural and outdoor activities of each country are looked at and a winner decided.  Round four, begin!

Note: While sitting on the beach all day is fun, it can be done in both countries with equal laziness. Thus, beachbumming does not count as an activity.

Costa Rica

Expats, retirees, and tourists wouldn’t have been flocking to CR for two decades if all there was to do was sit on the beach all day.  For a tiny country, Costa Rica boasts a huge array of attractions that can keep the average gringo busy for months, if not years.  Here are a few top picks, both in outdoor activities and cultural discoveries.

Into the wild:

1. Arenal volcano- Yeah, its been exploited more than Macauley Caulkin, but Arenal still is one of Costa Rica’s most impressive, and easily accessible, natural attraction.  Not only does lava commonly spurt from the top, but the surrounding area is popular for hiking, fishing, and canopy tours.

2. White water rafting- This is some intense stuff. The #1 river to raft is the Pacuare River, which not only offers a rush of adrenaline but also a chance to see virgin rainforest up close, without the mosquito bites.

3. Parque Corcovado.  It would be a sin to leave out Corcovado from any list.  This is the absolute best place in Central America to immerse oneself in the rainforest without going “Man vs Wild” Bear Grylls-style.  Far enough from the tourist trail but still within civilization, the park offers unparalleled access to plants and animals in their natural habitat.  And the hiking isn’t all that difficult.

Whats a Tico, anyway?

1. San Jose museums and opera house- not many travellers or expats spend much time in the capital, but the gold and jade museums, along with the Belgian/Italian designed opera house, are worth checking out to get some background on Costa Rica’s long history.

2. Grana de oro- Coffee is big time in CR, and even non-fans of the stuff (like me) will find the coffee regions intrguing.  The process, the climate, the scenery, plus the opportunity to taste and buy some of the “gold grain”

3. Craft shopping- Even the guys out there will enjoy this, as every manpad (or dining room…) should have at least one piece of badass foreign art that you can tell your friends about.  Despite not having a gloried pre-Colombian past, the country boasts some excellent handmade crafts, from pottery and dolls to colorful oxcarts, that are available for a fraction of what you would pay for them in North America.

While it can sometimes feel like you are being led around by the hand by tour guides and its often hard to go five minutes without seeing a fellow gringo, Costa Rica has a ton of activitis to offer, too many to list here.  The infrastructure is top notch, making even the novice traveler or expat feel comfortable.

Panama

In a country that is still being discovered by gringos, Panama has some really cool stuff for the expat, retiree, and tourist alike.

Into the wild:

1. Wildlife viewing- Rainforests and cloudforests dominate Panama, so there is no lack of opportunity to get out and see some nature.  The famed Pipeline Road is close to the capital in the Soberania Park and is great for birdwatching, and the Baru National Park in Chiriqui is well known for its Quetzal birds.

2. Tree canopy adventures- scattered in forests throughout the country, these “rides” consist of a person being harnessed and attached to a zipline, then literally flying around the forest canopy from one platform to another.  Really cool, safe, and a total adrenaline rush.

3. Diving and snokeling- Get off the beach and into the water.  Around Portobello, Isla Grande has well-established dive programs and Bocas del Toro offers some untouched diving spots.

The canal and more

1. Panama Canal- Every tourist, expat, and retiree should see the canal in action at least once.  Not only is it really a remarkable feat of engineering, but also a big part of each Panamanian; a true source of pride.  If possible, book a trip from the Pacific to the Caribbean or vice-versa.

2. Portobello- Steeped in history, this Caribbean town was once one of the most important cities in the Western hemisphere.  Some of the most famous pirates fought brutal campaigns in and around the town, and the ruins are quite amazing and the tourist infrastrure well set up.

3. Go native- Panama boasts some pretty unique and accessible indigenous tribes, each one being different in some way, beit customs or language.  The Embera people mainly inhabit the dangerous Darien forest along the border with Colombia, but a few communities have made their way to the Chagres River by the canal area and welcome visitors daily.  Along the Caribbean coast, the Kuna people make their home among the 400 islands of San Blas, so visitors are treated to an incredible setting as well as indigenous customs.

Round 4 winner: Costa Rica. This was a close one, but Costa Rica’s far superior infrasture gives it the edge.  While this might not appeal to everyone, CR is just more accessable than Panama; however, given the right oversight Panama could easily equal, or even surpass, Costa Rica in terms of cool things to do. And man, Corcovado just plain rocks. Score: Costa Rica: 2, Panama: 1, 1 tie

Voice your opinion below.  Agree, disagree, or have additional info thats been left out?  We want to hear from you…

Bocas del Toro:

Located on the west part of Panama near the border of Costa Rica, the Bocas del Toro Archipielago consists of nine islands, 52 keys and around 200 tiny islets. The biggest and most developed island is Colon Island.

Bocas del Toro

Panama City:

Located on the Pacific Coast, east of the Panama Canal, the city has tons of tourist attractions that include worl class hotels and restaurants. Investors from all over the world are constantly pulled to Panama’s real estate market due to the fact that the Canal has undergoing plans for expansion.

Panamá City

Boquete:

Located on the Chiriquí Province, one of the most developed provinces in the country, with an economy that is based on the production of agriculture and tourisim. Boquete is known as the flower garden of the nation and as one of the top places in the world for retirement with espectacular mountain views and cattle ranches.

Boquete

El Valle de Anton:

Located in the province of Coclé on the southern coast of Panama, inside a 20 square kilometer crater of a volcano atop a mountain. It’s a magical experience full of waterfalls, hot water springs, square trees and golden frogs.

El Valle de Anton

San Blas Islands:

Located to the northeast of the Panama Canal with 365 islands, one for each day of the year. There aren’t too many destinations in the Caribbean quite like the San Blas Islands Panama archipelago were you will find some of the oldest reefs in the world, beautiful arts and crafts and the Kunu Indians, who run the islands as an autonomous province.

San Blas Islands

Bocas del Toro pic provided by Jason’s Travel Photography at http://www.flickr.com/photos/jasonweaver/2478375748/sizes/l/

Panama City pic provided by seracat at http://www.flickr.com/photos/mserarolsbcn/2932517286/

Boquete pic provided by Rita Willaert at http://www.flickr.com/photos/rietje/2319517510/

El Valle de Anton pic provided by g[wiz] at http://www.flickr.com/photos/ggunter/2331421859/

San Blas pic provided by meytevidri at http://www.flickr.com/photos/maytevidri/2474614966/