Why did you decide to move to Bocas? The lodge was a dream that had been gestating since we met in college in 1991. We both wanted to pursue a largely self-sufficient lifestyle and escape the trappings of the work and consumer driven ‘global north’. After reading a newspaper piece entitled “Panama, The Oddest Country in Central America,” we decided we needed to visit. We fell in love with Bocas’ incredible natural environment and its diverse population.

2.) What were some of the challenges you faced when you first moved to Bocas, both personally and professionally? Having worked as an archaeologist (Henry) and a museum specialist (Margaret), there wasn’t a great deal of roll-over into this project. We both had to learn hands-on how to build structures, plan for water and solar systems and navigate the bureaucracies for building permits, licenses etc. It was particularly hard for Margaret as a women to have any authority in such a male- dominated culture. We were also appalled by the attitude of many ex-pats to the local communities; one of disregard at best and blatant racism at worst.

3.) How do you reconcile guest comfort and environmental friendliness? Many people seem to think they can’t simultaneously exist. What are some of the drawbacks or challenges you face running a “green” hotel? We’re very clear up front what the lodge can offer guests. We make it apparent in all of our publicity that our emphasis is on bringing guests closer to the natural environment and local communities and not on amenities such as air conditioning and swimming pools. As a result, our guests share the same ethos about responsible travel. They seek us out specifically because we’re the antithesis of generic chain hotels. This said, we do everything we can to provide comfort as long as it is compatible with maintaining our small ecological footprint. We have comfortable beds, enormous mosquito nets, flushing toilets and hot water. I can think of no challenges we’ve faced in running a ‘green’ operation verses a high impact hotel.

4.) What makes your lodge green, and why did you choose to build annenvironmentally friendly hotel? We wouldn’t dream of building it any other way! Although large portions of the land we purchased had been farmed in the past, the jungle was well on its way to reclaiming its territory and this is the way it should be. The flora and fauna are remarkable. From the outset, we did everything we could to limit our negative impact on the environment and local communities. Our power is solar, our water comes from a spring on the land, all black  water is safely treated and gray water reused, we farm much of the food we consume and source the rest locally. We strictly minimize non-compostable waste. We employee only local people, offer training and career development opportunities and run a community development program (Hooda Chi). We’ve also planted hundreds of trees and worked to reduce invasive plant species.

Our interest and intentions were always in the area of sustainable and responsible lifestyles, although we have no formal training. Margaret specialized in social inclusion in the cultural sector, so although it may not have been immediately obvious, many of her skills were useful in running the community development program.

Is it a challenge to be green in Bocas and Panama? Yes and no. Awareness of environmental issues is leagues behind the UK and US. A little example? The looks of confusion we would receive when we asked not to have groceries put into a plastic bag! However, levels of consumption are less (largely due to limited income). In the past couple of years, there’s been a recycling scheme in Bocas which is great.

How do your guests respond to the lodge? The vast majority appreciate what we are doing at La Loma and relish the new experiences on offer to them. They’re often surprise at just how comfortable it can be living simply in the jungle. We made many wonderful friends and have many repeat customers.

Bocas del Toro: With a couple of ramshackle, English Caribbean-style towns that seem to suffer from a severe dichotomy between the relatively wealthy expat community and a struggling, impoverished Afro-Caribbean and indigenous population, your initial reaction when visiting Bocas might be to ask yourself why this is one of Panama’s most popular beach destinations. However, despite this rather sad economic reality, Bocas is actually home to some of Panama’s most breathtaking beaches, including the dazzling “Cayos Zapatillos” two white-sand islands with crystal clear waters and excellent snorkeling and opportunities.  At Starfish Beach, hundreds of orange starfish dot the ocean floor. I recommend hiring a local boatman when visiting different beaches as a way to support the local community.

Kuna Yala: Also known as San Blas, these 365-plus (mostly uninhabited) islands offer crystal clear blue-green waters, tiny, palm tree-lined white sand islands and a traditional, strong willed people, the Kuna, who fiercely cling to their traditions and customs. In fact, foreigners are not even allowed to buy property anywhere on the Kuna Yala Island. The vast majority of lodging options here consist of thatched roof cabins with sand floors, no electricity or running water and few amenities. Because of the region’s isolation, most islands have no restaurants, bars or shops, so you’ll have to buy an all-inclusive package including mostly fish and rice meals. So while there may not be a thriving restaurant and bar scene, the Kuna Yala islands are the perfect spot to lay on a hammock, work on your tan and snorkel along the many coral reefs close to the shoreline.

Isla Coiba: Isla Coiba is often compared to the Galapagos Island because of its endemic species and unique ecosystem. In my opinion, Isla Coiba is Panama’s most pristine and gorgeous beach destination, but the Island receives relatively few visitors, not surprising considering there’s only a couple rustic cabins for lodging on the island and visiting can be expensive. But if money isn’t an issue, Isla Coiba is worth the hassle. Most likely, your tour company will arrange lodging at nearby Isla Coiba or right on the tour boat. Isla Coiba is considered one of the best diving and snorkeling spots in Central America.

Boca Chica: These aren’t the most beautiful beaches in the country – think beige sand, deep blue waters – but there’s something special about this rural region of Panama. On the Pacific side of the country, Boca Chica feels a bit like cowboy country. Men on horseback, verdant, rolling hills and miles upon miles of banana plantations dot the landscape and the climate here is hot and muggy — perfectly tropical, in other words! Boca Chica is home to some of the most beautiful eco lodges in the country and makes an ideal romantic getaway for couples because of its isolation.

The Pacific Beaches: These are definitely not Panama’s most impressive beaches, but the central Pacific coast is home to Panama’s most ambitious and upscale beach-side communities and all-inclusive resorts. The beaches here resemble those on the U.S mid Atlantic and have mostly brownish, medium grain sand and brown/green murky water with strong riptides that can make swimming dangerous for children and inexperienced swimmers. All that said, Pacific beaches such as Gorgona, Playa Blanca and Santa Clara make a perfectly pleasant day trip from Panama City, and if your idea of going to the beach includes staying at a full service (think multiple pools, restaurants, cocktails, nightly entertainment) all-inclusive resorts, you’ll be perfectly happy on Pacific beaches.

Recently, several Panama coffees have won international coffee competitions. What makes Panama coffee so special? Is there something about Boquete that makes the coffee particularly good? Yes Boquete, on the south side of Volcan Baru has the climate. Its volcanic soil is perfect for [growing] Arabica coffee. Looking back, it also helped that panama had its fare share of political bad luck at the end of the Noriega era; a new coffee, Catimora, found its way into Latin America. Catimora coffee ended up having a disappointing taste, but a lot of coffee countries planted this coffee.

Not Panama. Panama was so poor it could not replant its plantations. The country was so poor that it stayed mainly with the old way of growing coffee: Small plantations close to nature and the old Arabica varieties. Next, there is a very good relationship between most of the coffee companies around Volcan Baru; in the last ten years especially, [they’ve] learned how to perfect the process together, and today Panama produces some of the best coffee in the world.

On that note, what makes a particular coffee “good?” Does it have to do with the kind of bean? Or does it depend more on the process? You cannot make a bad coffee good just by processing it right. Everything has to be done right, from the growing of the fruit to the roasting of the bean.

When I visited Boquete this past May and went on your coffee farm tour, I had no idea that the process of getting coffee from seed to cup was so involved, in many ways like the wine-making process.  I think most people don’t realize how long it takes for a coffee beanto make it onto grocery store shelves; how long, on average, does it take between the time a coffee bean is picked and the time it’s ready to drink? For our specialty Arabica it will take about 6 months.  An important part of the process is curing the coffee in for five months, like a wine.

You yourself have an organic coffee farm on your property; what motivated you to plant your own coffee, and how is it different from non-organic coffee farms in terms of yield and taste? The motivation for my wife, Terry, and I comes from one thing: The love for a good cup coffee.
In general, a non-organic commercial coffee is a cheap mass product; you simply use all means to produce the product as cheaply as possible. This does not mean it’s a bad product; it makes a lot of people happy, but it can be so much better! The coffee we grow on our estate is a hobby, so we can do things differently. We are only looking at the taste. We like to think we even surpass organic. [For the last 10 years] our coffee has been growing wild. We have not used any non-organic fertilizer. The coffee is planted beside the trees in the forest and the forest has to provide the nutrition and shade for the coffee trees. Next, we use a very old variety of Arabica called Tipica Criollo. We find it to be a very good coffee but also a very low production. A hobby.

Our coffee is only for guests staying at our lodge, Tinamou Cottage, here in the Jungle on the estate! (coffeeadventures.net/tinamou). We also will always bring our coffee on other tours like hiking and birding tours

Light roast, medium roast, dark roast; it all sounds fancy, but what exactly does it mean? What are the differences in taste, and how should I prepare each? Roasting is the moment the taste come out of the bean. In general you can taste the body, or basic coffee flavor, better in a darker roast, but you will lose the taste of the smaller flavors, which are characteristic to the variety of Arabica, such as nuts, fruit, chocolate, and caramel the darker you roast the beans. Therefore, we like to see a light roast as a “strong” and complex tasting coffee good for a drip and French press. If you like more body, the medium roast will work better. For an espresso machine, in general you will do fine with a dark roast, but with a good coffee, a medium roast will give you a more complex taste in your cup of espresso. The extra dark roast is also known as a French roast, and is good for coffee with extra added flavors, mostly in the form of a syrups added to the cup of coffee in the coffee shop.

I’ve heard the stuff you get at the grocery store is, literally, the bottom of the barrel. Is this true? No, but it’s a commercial coffee made as cheap as possible and mostly based on Robusta, a very easy to grow and produce coffee, but with a simple taste and in general, not a good aftertaste. More and more grocery store coffees are adding lower quality Arabica coffee, which makes the coffee somewhat smoother and more flavorful. We notice the world wants/likes to drink a better coffee.

Where can I get good coffee? A specialty store; just find a real coffee store.

How can those of us with an unsophisticated palette tell the difference between “good coffee” and “bad coffee?” Let’s start with this: A good coffee is a coffee you like, so you have to find the perfect coffee for you! A good coffee store will have a description of the taste of the coffee’s they offer and you have to look for the flavors and roast you like. This is also a part of the Kotowa coffee tour we organize here in Boquete. The tour is not just about how a coffee grows and how it’s processed; we will help you find your way in a coffee store! (www.coffeeadventures.net/coffeetour)

How did your passion for coffee develop? Was it something that started in Holland, or did it start when you moved to Panama? We always loved coffee but Panama made us coffee snobs, and we enjoy every moment and sip of our (coffee) life here in Boquete.

Your perfect cup of coffee? For us, it’s a cappuccino made from our own coffee in a medium roast, easy on the milk but lots of milk foam and a side of good Dutch apple pie. And just like wine, good company.

For more information, check out what to expect with customer service in Panama and abroad, or read more about living and working in Boquete. For more on this company, check out Coffee Adventures.

What is the BTSA’s mission?

“To support sustainable tourism development, promote responsible travel that sustain and enhance the geographical character of the place—our environment, culture, aesthetics, heritage, and the well-being of our residents while giving incentives for travelers to understand and protect the local culture and environment they are visiting.”

How did the idea for BTSA come around? Is this part of an umbrella organization or unique to Bocas?

Destination Management Organizations (DMOs) have proven to be effective at providing incentives for behavior change in the tourism sector.  They also have the ability to strengthen links between tourism stakeholders and increase conservation awareness throughout the value chain.  As such, through the generous support of the USAID-Conservation of Central American Watersheds program (CCAW), Solimar International was tasked with developing a DMO that can achieve the following objectives for the region:
·      Enhance the competitiveness of sustainable tourism in Bocas del Toro;
·      Support conservation efforts that mitigate environmental impacts;
·      Respond to an increase in tourism demand; and
·      Strengthen links between public and private sector groups within the destination.
As a result, the Bocas Sustainable Tourism Alliance (BSTA) was formed. BSTA is a local affiliate of Sustainable Travel International.

What are the requirements for an establishment to be accepted as an environmentally friendly property?

We are currently working through our guideline documents which include the details of acceptance.  We require members to pledge to BSTA regarding their sustainable practices and work towards improving these practices on a regular basis.  Our intention is to provide education on sustainable practices and to ensure that each of our members meets at least a certain threshold for sustainability.

What exactly is green tourism? What can establishments do to be more green?

Sustainable tourism is tourism that is economically, culturally and environmentally sustainable. With sustainable tourism, cultural and environmental impacts are neither permanent nor irreversible.  What is sustainable?  Something that is capable of being maintained without exhausting available resources or causing damage.  The aim of sustainable tourism is to ensure that tourism is a positive experience for local people, tourism companies and tourists themselves.  Establishments can work towards improving their sustainability in a given area to that they meet the minimum standards and work towards being an example to other businesses.

What can travelers do to reduce their carbon footprint?

Here are some Green Travel Tips we provide for travelers on our website and on our Map of Bocas del Toro:

1.  Despite the huge amount of rainfall in this region, fresh water is in very short supply. Be aware of your usage when traveling – take short showers, re-use towels and linen at hotels, and team up with other travelers to wash a full laundry load.

2.  Trash is often dumped or burned, so recycle as much as you possibly can. BSTA’s Tourist Information Center has containers for recycling plastic bottles, drink cans and plastic bags, and Wongsa on the waterfront at the northern end of Calle 5 takes cleaned drinks cans and plastic bottles to Panama City for recycling.

3.  Don’t keep buying plastic water bottles – refill your old one at the BSTA Tourist Information Center. It’s cheaper, too!

4.  Do not touch coral or other sea life when diving or snorkeling. It could be harmful to you as well as to the coral! You can report any boat drivers who drop anchor on the coral or chase dolphins to BSTA, as well as any guides who act irresponsibly towards the environment.

5.  Do not purchase souvenirs made from coral or turtle shell, and avoid restaurants serving turtle meat or eggs. Lobsters are also overfished, so you may want to avoid ordering them too.

6.  Where possible, buy handicrafts directly from the communities or artisans to ensure your money reaches the craftspeople. If you don’t manage to visit a local community, a small selection of handicrafts are on sale at the BSTA Tourist Information Center, and all profits are returned to the craftspeople. Additionally, on the first and third Saturday of every month, local communities sell their own crafts, oils, coconut and cacao products at the Bocas Farmer’s Market in the park.

7.  Give something back! Contact BSTA for information about volunteer opportunities in the region – from installing rainwater catchment systems to working in schools.

8.  Include a visit to a local community tourism project. You can stay in a cabin or with a family; enjoy a home-cooked meal; learn how medicinal plants are used; see how local crafts are made; and watch traditional dance performances.

9.  Look for low-impact tour options – hiking, biking, kayaking and snorkeling rather than motorized boats, cars or scooters.

1. Do your research! BSTA offers information about the sustainability of local businesses so that you can be sure your hotel or tour provider is doing its best to minimize its environmental impact and support the local community.

I would also add that travelers could choose to travel by bus and water taxi instead of flying to the island.

What are some of the challenges Bocas in particular faces when it comes to dealing with eco/environmental challenges? Is anything being done to deal with these challenges?

Bocas is a small town in a ‘developing’ country and as such faces a variety of obstacles when it comes to addressing the eco/environmental challenges. There are steps being taken to deal with all of the challenges.

Check out my article on green travel for additional information.

Days 1-2: Panama City. You’ll probably love it or you’ll hate it, but no matter what, you’ll likely have to start or end here. You’re going to experience nature some other time, so skip the leafy B&Bs and head to one of Panama City’s over the top, sexy/glitzy luxury hotels. I say book a room at the Marriott, the Radisson or the Veneto. Go ahead, get a massage or a facial, and don’t be shy about room service. Panama City really isn’t the place to be a cheap. Check out a couple hotel casinos and get your drink on at Calle Uruguay (Lima Limon and Sahara are some personal favorites of mine) and head to the Zona Viva on Friday or Saturday if it’s dancing your after. And don’t be ashamed about wearing that teeny tiny miniskirt you haven’t had the guts to wear anywhere else; you will fit right in with all the other sexily dressed ladies.

The next day, if you choose to wake up at a decent hour, check out the sites. Head to Casco Viejo for a bit of colonial sightseeing, have lunch at Manolo Caracol and stop for an ice cream at Granclement. It’s hot, so you’ll probably want a nap. Later, head over to the Amador Causeway for a romantic dinner at Lenos y Carbon.

Days 3-4: The Panama Canal Zone. It’s only about 30 minutes outside Panama City, but this is one of the most interesting and fun places in the country. Again, we’re not cutting corners when it comes to comfort, so book two nights at the Gamboa Resort. Arrange a canal day trip, take a jungle adventure tour or head out the Canopy Tower Discovery Center. When you’re all toured out, head to the pool to cool off. If you’re a bird watcher, you’ll want to check out Pipeline Road and Soberania National Park.

Days 5-6: Valle de Anton. Rent a car early in the morning.  Panama City is hot, and that’s why you’ll want to head to cool Valle de Anton. It may initially seem like a sleepy little mountain town with little going on – and that’s kind of true — but El Valle makes a great spot to detox and rejuvenate your soul. Book two nights at Los Mandarinos, the Golden Frog in or the Park Eden B&B. Have dinner at La Casa de Lourdes; yes, the portions are tiny (I recommend eating something before dinner) but the views are stunning and the little bit of food you actually get is quite good. The next day, head to Yogini’s Spa for a full body massage then drive out to the nearby thermal springs and do a bit of hiking if you’re up for it.

Days 7, 8, 9: Bocas Del Toro. This is one of the top beach destinations in Panama, and the two best places to stay here are the Jungle Lodge and Tranquilo Bay Resort. However, if you require all creature comfort and a full-service hotel, head to Playa Tortuga Resort. Book a cave tour or beach excursion at your hotel. Bocas has some of the country’s best beaches, so you’ll want to hire a boatman to take you out to Cayos Zapatillas and Red Frog Beach. Here, you can surf, snorkel, dive, sunbathe, hike and explore.

You’ll also want to check out of the cool and funky restaurants in Bocas town: Try Ultimo Refugio, Guari Guari or Om Café. And you won’t want to miss partying at the Barco Hundido Bar and Club. But mostly, you’ll just want to hang out at the beach with a good book.

Days 10, 11, 12, 13: Boquete. Ahh, Panama’s mountain haven and in my opinion, one of the most beautiful spots on earth. The mountains are exploding with colors, orchids bloom wild, and spring-like temperatures mean hiking is actually pleasant. Wake up and (literally) smell the coffee in Panama’s coffee capital. It’s a small town, but Boquete has a decent restaurant and hotel scene: Il Pianista, La Creperie and Tammy’s are all good choices. If you choose to stay at the Coffee Estate Inn, you can’t go wrong with Jane and Barry’s romantic “Date Night” special dinner night. Other top-notch lodging options include the Palo Alto Inn and the Panamonte.

Spend your first day in Boquete hiking; Visit Parque International la Amistad and if you’re in good shape, hike up to Volcan Baru.  Visit a couple Coffee farms with Coffee Adventure Tours and visit the Haven Spa for a bit much-need self TLC.

Are you so wealthy you don’t know what to spend your money on? Take a plane down to the Islas Secas Resort, one of the country’s best and most expensive all-inclusive resorts, but you’ll definitely get your money’s worth. This is afterall, among the world’s best resorts.

Fly back to Panama City and board your plane back home. Vacation over.

*** To my fellow financially-strapped globe trotters, don’t despair; soon I’ll post a budget-minded Panama itinerary that will surely satisfy the most despondent and cheap among us. For more on costs in Latin America, click here.

More on my travel experiences in Panama can be found on my blog, or check out my article about what Panama City offers in entertainment.

Let me set the scene: It was late at night. I took an overnight bus from Panama City to David and had about 4,048 bags with me. When I arrived in David, I gathered my bags (at least I thought so) and sleepily headed to the front desk of my hotel. The kind lady somehow believed I actually worked for. As usual, the concierge asked for my passport.  It was then that it occurred to me then that I could not have my passport because I did not have my purse. As any normal person would do, I started panicking. The kind concierge promptly called the hotel cab driver, and together, we raced down the Panamerican Highway in hot pursuit of the bus.

The following part of my story is a testament of what NOT to do when one is in a foreign country with no money, no cell phone, no credit cards and no will to remain awake despite significant extenuating circumstances. On the way to the border – I have forgotten my cab driver’s name so I will just call him Sr. Taxista for clarity purposes – Sr. Taxista tells me that he cannot take me to the border because the border police will detain me and if my documents aren’t found, they may detain me for longer than I’d like to be detained. When Sr. Taxista tells me this, I look around at where he wants to leave me. I am not pleased, to say the least. On one side are about six boarded up shops, on the other side a dim, aluminum-looking cantina that has the words “Aguila” painted on the side and appears to be vibrating with the sounds of unfaithful cowboys lamenting their transgressions from an aggressively loud music system . Upon analyzing my options, I beg Sr. Taxista to please let me go with him, I will happily hide in the trunk, but he refuses, telling me he doesn’t want to have problems with the border police. If he intended to abandon me in the middle of nowhere, why did he even bother bringing me? But seeing Sr. Taxista is unwilling to budge, I reluctantly get out of the car. Sr. Taxista promises me he’ll be back in approximately 15 minutes and drops me off in front of the boarded up shops.

Let me further set the scene by explaining that I am wearing a short blue dress and gold high heels. I know this isn’t intelligent bus attire but what’s done is done. I am in need of a shower and my hair has not been brushed in at least 24 hours. It’s nearly 1am and I’m exhausted, so you can imagine the state I am in. I did not look like a reputable woman. For a while, I stood in front of the boarded up shops recalling all the crime mysteries I’ve watched over the years, and unsure if it’s better to hide behind the building where no one can see me, stand in the middle of the highway so passing cars see me or stand in front of the cantina and hope there is safety in numbers. For a while, I alternate between the highway median and the boarded up shops, trying to make it clear to anyone watching me that I am waiting for someone. I am in the tropical lowlands of Panama and that means there are animals and animal sounds everywhere, and eventually, the sounds of croaking frogs becomes too much and I decide to cross the street and stand in front of the cantina.

Initially, I thought this was my best option and it appeared to go well in the beginning. A thin, middle-aged man named Pepe, who’s wearing a farmer’s hat and a plaid shirt tucked into light wash jeans and holding a beer approaches me, asks me what I’m doing standing on the side of the highway by myself at 1am in the morning and that he has daughters and sisters and wouldn’t want anything to happen to them and he’ll keep an eye on me. Then he asks if I’d like a beer. I say no thank you. But either way, I feel ok. Well, by this time it’s been 30 minutes and no sign of the driver. Pepe comes back to check on me with a couple of friends and by now, all are decidedly inebriated. Pepe tells me he is heading home and do I want a ride. He does not appear to be aware of the state he is in. I say no thank you. But even so, I am upset that he is going home, because he was my protector. So Pepe gets in the car and shortly there after, his friends come over to admire my physique and make competing propositions, all of which include me, alcohol and privacy. I am not the type of person who easily becomes scared, but I am terrified. I am seeing myself lifeless in a gutter somewhere on the Panamerican Highway. And it will take weeks to identify the body due to lack of I.D. but at that moment, Sr. Taxista arrives with my purse, which, of course, is empty. Gone is my cash, all my credit cards, my driver’s license and my passport. Mr. Taxista tells me that’s the way he found my purse. I have my doubts, and ask myself if this was just a ploy on his part, but I’m exhausted and paranoid and besides, I have no other way to get home.

Anyway, he drives me back to the hotel (luckily I’m there with a complimentary stay) and send emergency e-mails to my family that read: URGENT: LOST PASSPORT, CASH, CREDIT CARDS IN MIDDLE OF HIGHWAY, NEED MONEY. I spend the rest of the night using the hotel’s computer to cancel all my credit cards via skpye and feel sorry for myself.

So now that I’ve so eloquently shared my dire tale, I’ll let you know what I did about it. It turns out you can’t have money wired to you when you have no ID, so I had to frantically look for someone in Panama City who happened to not be working and have time on his hands. I find him. I have money transferred to him. I go to the American Embassy’s site and print out various documents I’ll need in order to request my new passport and get new pictures taken. Later, I go to the police station to file a stolen passport report because the embassy requires this in order to process the new passport. I am about half an hour into my tale of highway theft when the police officer stops me and asks me what I want. I tell her I want a police report saying my passport was stolen. “Oh, well, that’s easy,” she says, takes out a paper, and has me sign on the dotted line. With my police report in hand, I head to the American Embassy. I am dreading long lines and waits, but its surprisingly organized and quick; my number is called in less than five minutes, I pay the clerk, and am told my passport will be ready in about one week. A week later, the embassy e-mails me and lets me know my passport has arrived. Much easier than I expected.

TIPS:

(1)    E-mail yourself a copy of your passport so you can just print out a copy if necessary. It makes getting your passport replacement much quicker. If you don’t have a copy of your passport, you’ll have to produce a birth certificate or other form of ID or possibly wait a long time to have your request processed.

(2)    Get the name and number of at least one person in the country you are visiting. That way, if you lose all your documents and need money wired to you, you’ll have someone to fall back on. I’m lucky in that I know quite a bit of people in Panama.

(3)    Don’t head straight to the embassy. Call or check out your country’s lost/stolen passport requirements. The last thing you want to do is make the long trip to the embassy and realize you haven’t filled out the paperwork, don’t have a required police report or you brought the wrong size photos.

(4)    Go in the morning. The lines are only going to get longer later in the day.

(5)    If absolutely all your money’s been stolen and you honestly have no way to get more, don’t panic; the embassy can issue you a temporary, emergency passport card valid for 60 days. Within 60 days, you’ll just need to go through the normal stolen passport replacement process.

For additional information about traveling safely, check out the following articles on safe neighborhoods of Mexico City and neighborhoods of Bogota.

What makes Panama such a hot destination for most serious birders?

Guido: There are a great many reasons that make of Panama an ideal place for birdwatchers.  We could actually write a book on the subject.
Panama has more species of birds than the US and Canada combined! We can summarize this into the following:

1.) Diversity of tropical habitats in a small surface area; Panama is a tiny country roughly the size of South Carolina or the country of Austria. Located between 8-9 degrees from the Equator, Panama’s tropical rain forests offers environmental conditions (constant sunlight, heat, humidity) that are optimal for the development of flora and fauna; birds are of course no exception.

2.) Panama’s irregular geography and topography allow it to contain more than 12 different Life Zones, ranging from tropical dry forest to humid forests, to paramo-like conditions on top of the tallest mountains at over 11,000 ft.

3.) Panama’s geographic position at the crossroads of the Americas means that we are fortunate to find in our tiny country both species typical to North and Central America, as well as species otherwise only found in South America

4.) Accessibility & infrastructure. Modern highways and the forested Panama Canal Watershed allows visitors to visit more than seven different protected areas, each containing various habitats and therefore unique avifauna, within a 1-hour drive from downtown Panama City.  Panama City is one of the most cosmopolitan capital cities in Latin America with modern infrastructure and First-World services and ammenities.

What are the best spots for Birdwatching in Panama?
1.)  Panama Watershed: Soberania (Pipeline Rd.), Chagres (Madden, Cerro Jefe), and San Lorenzo National Parks (Achiote)
2.)  Darien province: All around not only the National Park but also Western (Chucanti), Central (Mogue and La Marea), and Eastern (El Real, Pirre, Cana)
3.)  La Amistad Biosphere Reserve (Baru Volcano, PILA, Fortuna)
4.)  Eastern Panama Province & Nusagandi (Burbayar, Bayano forest, Torti)
5.)  Eastern Talamanca Range (Santa Fe, El Valle, Campana)
6.)  Islands with endemics or with species of restricted distribution found nowhere else in Panama *(Coiba, Escudo de Veraguas, Frailes del Sur )

For more information on Panama, check out places to live and a look into two weeks in Panama.

There are plenty of charming, high-quality lodging options in Boquete. I recommend staying outside of town for the best views and wildlife-spotting opportunities. I stayed at the Coffee Estate Inn (www.coffeeestateinn.com), a short drive uphill from mainstreet, which is owned and operated by Jane and Barry, a friendly and helpful Canadian couple who go above and beyond when it comes to making guests feel at home on their property. The Coffee Estate functions as both an inn and a small coffee farm, and there are three, elegant, secluded bungalows, all suite-style with seperate sleeping and sitting areas, and all guests are greeted with Barry’s tasty, homemade breads.  At $145 a night, the Coffee Estate is a great deal: The owners don’t cut any corners when it comes to services or amenities and the views are breath-taking. Plus, all guests can go on Barry’s private coffee farm tour and have an opportunity to purchase coffee, freshly roasted however you like it. Some of my other Boquete lodging favorites are the Riverside Inn (riversideinnboquete.com), the Panamonte (www.panamonte.com) and the Boquete Garden Inn (www.boquetegardeninn.com). If you’re looking for a larger, more chain-like option, I recommend the Hotel Valle del Rio (www.valledelrioboquete.com).

Barry and I at the Coffee Estate Inn.

Now that you’ve got your lodging under control, you’re probably looking for a bit of adventure. If you’re a birdwatcher, I recommend contacting Coffee Adventure Tours (coffeeadventures.net) , owned and operated by Terry and Hans. Terry is an avid, experienced birder who leads private groups in and around Boquete. Chago (6626-2200) is Boquete’s best-known birding guide and is famous for his near perfect record when it comes to  quetzal-spotting. Coffee Adventure Tours also offers coffee tours and hiking excursions, as does Boquete Mountain Safari Tours (www.boquetemountainsafaritours.com). Hans from Coffee Adventure Tours gives a spirited and entertaining tour of Kotowa Coffee Farm and is my favorite coffee tour guide. For rafting excursions, contact Chiriqui River Rafters (www.boquetemountainsafaritours.com) or Boquete Outdoor Adventure (boqueteoutdooradventure.com), which also offers other, non-rafting excursions to Boca Brava and Isla Coiba. Lastly, adreneline junkies won’t want to miss Boquete Tree Trek’s (720-1635) canopy zipline adventure. Your hotel should be able to provide your with hiking trail information if you’d rather head out on your own.

When it comes food, Boquete isn’t exactly Panama City, but a large expat community means there’s much more variety than you’d expect from a town the size of this size. Jane from the Coffee Estate Inn recommended I head over to Tammy’s at the edge of town (behind Roxanne’s) for the vegetarian platter. Run by Israeli chef Tamara, the restaurant is low-key and unassuming, but their vegetarian platter was amazing — perhaps the best I’ve had in Latin America. Machu Picchu (264-9308) is a long-time favorite off of mainstreet serving up Peruvian specialties. For Italian, head to Il Pianista, a cozy, family-oriented spot with a great Italian wine list and a friendly Italian chef.  Sabroson on mainstreet is a good, cheap spot for typical Panamanian fare, Art Cafe el Crepe a good choice for a light meal, and the newly remodeled, renamed and reopened The Rock (www.therockboquete.com) is  the best choice in town for international cuisine.

If you’re going to visit Boquete, don’t come in a rush. There’s so much to do that there’s no way you can do the town and the surrounding area justice by staying just a day or two. I STRONGLY recommend renting a car, preferably and 4-wheel drive. Attractions are a bit spaced out and some roads are a bit rough and unpaved, making getting around much easier with a 4-wheel drive.

Click here to read more about where to live in Panama. Or, for more mountainous locations in Panama, check out El Valle.

The Pros: The Buenaventura definitely achieves its goal of impersonating a colonial Spanish hacienda with its many courtyards and fountains, and rooms are tastefully but simply decorated with. Plus,  you can watch TV while taking a bath — how cool is that? The staff is attentive and do their best to accommodate you, and there’s a great pool a nice gym (especially by hotel standards), and casual and elegant dining options. Plus, the full-service spa is one of the best and most upscale in Panama tropical chic lobby. Spanish-hacienda style hotel. Sure, everyone knew I was with Frommer’s, but I was treated like royalty and in a country like Panama where the idea of good customer service is just starting to get off the ground, it felt quite nice.  If you’ve stayed at the Buenaventura Bristol, feel free to let me know if you had a similar experience.

The Cons: Because the golf course is being worked on and there’s construction going on,  the Buenaventura has a bit of an “unfinished” feel to it, which may bother some visitors, although the property is so large that guests don’t have to worry about being woken up at 6am to the sound of loud machinery. In addition, the hotel can feel like a bit of a ghost town during weekdays in low season, but this is pretty common in many hotels outside Panama City. Lastly, the thought and detail put into the Buenaventura makes me feel like it was originally intended for couples looking for a romantic getaway, but the hotel has attracted a large family demographic and the pool and common areas are populated by plenty of kids on the weekends — great if you’re on family vacation, but probably not what you’re looking for on your honeymoon.

Even though I’m not much of a resort person, I enjoyed my time at the Buenaventura, although you probably want to have a rental car if you’re staying for more than a couple days  so you can visit other nearby attractions. For more information, visit the official website; [tel]: +(507) 908-3333.

For more hotel reviews, check out hotels in Puerto Vallarta and Costa Rica.

If you don’t have a car, take a bus to el Valle from the Albrook bus station. You’ll pay $7 roundtrip for the two hour drive, which will drop you off right in town. If you need a cab to get to your hotel, head to the ATP (Panamanian Tourism Authority) kiosk right by the artisan market – the attendant can call a cab for you. There are half a dozen fantastic B&Bs in el Valle: My personal favorite is the Park Eden Bed and Breakfast, which I consider one of Panama’s top B&Bs. Each guestroom is individually and tastefully decorated and owners Monica and Cesar are warm and friendly – not to mention the fantastic breakfast, served on an outdoor patio with dazzling views of the surrounding mountains. Other great choices are the Golden Frog Inn, owned by Americans Becky and Larry, with possibly the best views of el Valle. El Valle is known as one of Panama’s top bird-watching spots, and birdwatchers will definitely want to stay at the Canopy Lodge right outside town, owned and run by fellow birder Raul Arias. The lodge is simple but thoughtfully designed, with knowledgeable guides offering daily hikes. Meals are taken at a long rectangular table, promoting friendliness among guests. If it’s upscale elegance you’re after, Los Mandarinos is your best choice. This Tuscan-style hotel has its own spa and pool, and rooms are elegtant. There’s a Irish pub on site.

So now that you’ve got your lodging under control, where to eat? El Valle is small, but there’s a decent variety of dining options to choose from. The long-time favorite is Casa de Lourdes on Los Mandarinos. For years, la Casa de Lourdes has been regarded as one of Panama’s top restaurants. Another up and coming favorite is Cumana, run by a German and Panamanian couple out of their house. You pay $25 for an appetizer, main course and desert. The menu changes once a month and opens Thurs-Sun at 7pm. It’s only been a year or so since Cumana started serving dinner, but the place is quickly becoming one of the best places to get dinner in el Valle. There is often live music. Vegetarians will want to head to Bambusillo, and there are plenty of affordable dining options in town.

What to do? If you want to do more than just relax on your hammock, I think there’s no better option than relaxing on a massage table. El Valle has three spas: Your most upscale option is the spa at Los Mandarinos, followed by the Crater Valley Spa and Yoguini’s Spa. All cost about the same, but Yoguini’s Spa massages tend to last a little longer. Once all the kinks have been worked out of your back, head to Las Aguas Termales just outside of town. As far as thermal springs go they aren’t particularly impressive, but the mud here is thought to have healing properties and a the very least, you’ll be left with soft skin. Finally, if you’ve come to el Valle you may want to go hiking. Unless you’re an experienced hiker, I recommend hiring a guide for the day who can take you to La Piedra Pintada with its interesting writings or La India Dormida. You’ll find attractive waterfalls and picturesque scenery on both hikes, and a guide can help point out different wildlife and plants. Whatever hotel you choose to stay at should be able to recommend a guide.

For more on Panama, check out the reason why bird watchers are flocking to the country, my personal experiences in Panama on my blog, or the other mountainous city of Boquete.