Cancun has a reputation as a spring break favorite of fun-loving college students, but this Caribbean city actually offers much more than tequila shots, wet t-shirt contests, and all-night partying. In fact, Cancun is home to some of Mexico’s most luxurious and memorable all-inclusive resorts, restaurants, and historical sites, making it the perfect spot to spend a week with your significant other and learn a bit about Mexican history and culture.

Fast Facts:

• Time Zone: Central
• Climate: Semi-tropical; hurricane season from June 1st-November 30th; rainy season June-October.
• Language: Spanish
• Population: 600,000
• Electricity: 110 volts
• Business hours: 8am-9pm. Shops usually stay open until 10pm and restaurants until 12am. Some business close down for lunch between 12pm and 2pm.

Where to Stay. With nearly 30,000 hotel rooms, Cancun offers accommodation options at every price range. If you’re looking for a romantic, high-amenity, high-service lodging option with all the trimmings, head to the Le Blanc Spa Resort (www.leblancsparesort.com), the Sun Palace (www.palaceresorts.com), or the Royal Cancun (www.realresorts.com/The_Royal_Cancun), all ideal for the couple looking to indulge in a bit of self-pampering.

Cancun’s hundreds of hotels often offer steeply discounted rates during the off season. Keep in mind that rates can sky rocket in January and December and during the summer months when Americans, Canadians, and Europeans usually take their vacations.

Where to Dine. Because of its popularity with international tourists, travelers to Cancun will find a wide selection of not only American-style restaurants, but Italian, Chinese, Indian, and even Thai eateries. Puerto Madero Buenos Aires Restaurant (www.puertomaderocancun.com) serves up high-end steak and fish dishes, Carlos & Charlie’s Cancun (www.carlosandcharlies.com/charlies/cancun) is a fun, Mexican inspired restaurant that doubles as a dance club, and La Habichela (www.lahabichuela.com) specializes in unique fish and beef dishes and has a Five Diamond rating from the American Academy of Hospitality Sciences.

While traditional Mexican dishes such as fajitas, burritos, and tacos are plentiful in Cancun, the real specialty here is the ceviche and other Caribbean seafood dishes. During high season, it’s wise to reserve ahead of time.

What to See and Do. If you’ve decided to fly out to Cancun, your number one priority is likely to indulge in a bit of fun in the sun. Blessed with beautiful white sand beaches, Cancun vacationers can enjoy water sport activities such as sailing, jet skiing, water skiing, diving, snorkeling, kayaking, canoeing, and swimming, or simply spending the day sunbathing and working on your tan with a good book in hand. More adventurous travelers can head out on a guided jungle walking or jeep tour or check out the Chichen Itza  ruins, located two and a half hours from Cancun and dating back to 600 AD. Parasailing, paragliding, and kitesurfing are all increasing in popularity. If your idea of vacation fun includes a bit more relaxation,  spend the afternoon getting a massage at your hotel’s spa or lounging by the pool while sipping a tasty tropical cocktail.

Your hotel will be able to arrange day tours, excursions, and activities for you.

How to Get There and Around. Many U.S. cities offer direct flights to Cancun, often starting as low as the $200s. Because of its popularity, competitive airline rates are relatively easy to find. I find that www.kayak.com provides the best prices and most selection, but you can also book with Expedia, Orbit, Cheaptickets, or directly through the airline. Tickets to Cancun tend to be cheapest in September, October, November and April and May when tourism is at its lowest.

Once in Cancun, visitors will be glad to know that the city’s tourist section is actually quite small, and most tourist attractions, restaurants and beaches are within walking distance. However, if you prefer to take a cab, they are plentiful and cheap.

Given that Mexico City is the largest city on earth, it’s not hard to see why close to 9 million people choose to make it their home; not only is it the seat of the federal government of Mexico, but it is sprinkled with historical landmarks, museums, and parks and offers a vibrant history that spans from the heyday of the Aztecs. Mexico is a favorite vacation destination as well as corporate hub where visitors fly in from all over the world, despite the growing reports of violence and danger that are giving Mexico a reputation for not being travel-safe or tourist friendly. Most large cities have safe neighborhoods and rough ones, and Mexico City is no different. The safest neighborhoods in Mexico City have three common characteristics: they are considered historical or are close to historical districts, they are in primary tourist zones, and they have tight police-patrolled security both on the streets and in large public places. For those looking to travel to the grand Mexico City, these neighborhoods are the safest and most secure locations that the city has to offer.

Colonia Centro is located in the heart of Mexico City, and includes a mix of business and baking buildings, historical sites, and the central square. With a surrounding of more than 1,500 buildings, the area is well lit and often crowded with tourist and business traffic. This neighborhood also boasts a lot of must-see landmarks, like the relatively uncovered ruins of the Aztec’s Great Temple and many museums, restaurants, hotels, and places to shop. Some bars, clubs, and high-end restaurants are even located within historical buildings. The city underwent a massive $300 million renovation for Mexico City’s 675 anniversary. Travelers should rest assured when walking around the neighborhood to see the sights – police on horseback as well as many female police officers on foot patrol the Alameda Park and Centro Hisórico and are trained in the culture and history of the surrounding areas. The police can be identified easily from their traditional charroapparel, and many of them speak English.

Santa Fe is the perfect neighborhood for those travelers craving a taste of Mexico City’s contemporary culture; it’s not only the newest neighborhood, but also the most modern one. The international companies, universities, and banks offer a glimpse into the expanding twenty-first century nature of Mexico. The neighborhood itself resembles a traditional neighborhood in the United States, and the residents are affluent young professionals who accompany a sea of restaurants and colorful nightlife. Among the booming metropolis is a large shopping center, which is accessible through any of the major public transportation routes that go through Santa Fe. For those looking to make real estate investments, the neighborhood boasts an oversupply of commercial real estate that is the largest in the city. Because this neighborhood is one of Mexico City’s major business districts, the surroundings of corporate high rise buildings, shopping malls, three college campuses, and residential areas provide safe crowds and public areas allowing travelers to blend in and feel secure under the constant vigilance of security accompanying the big business district.

Xochimilco serves as a great escape for visitors looking for historical ambiance and a striking natural environment. The neighborhood is located 15 miles outside the town center, and boasts stretching canals and Floating Gardens that were adored by the Aztecs in ancient times. The canals make for a grand attraction alone, reaching across more than 50 miles, but the neighborhood mirrors traditional colonial-era style that draws large crowds granting travelers safety in numbers. Because Xochimilco is a historic district, it is a coveted neighborhood that the police force considers a privilege to protect. The neighborhood is quaint and modestly sized, with brick streets wrapping around restaurants and historic churches leading to a large main square where vendors sell rugs, vibrant pottery, and traditional clothing at the markets. The neighborhood also hosts 422 festivals every year that draws in many visitors longing for a taste of exotic Mexican culture and history. Declared a World Heritage site by UNESCO in 1987, security around the neighborhood is abundant and monitored by the federal government.

San Angel was a colonial-era weekend retreat for nobles, but in modern times it is a striking neighborhood with traditional homes, winding cobblestone streets and charming museums. Many policemen patrol the area and linger around the renowned Bazar del Sábado, or Saturday Bazaar, which is located at Plaza San Jacinto. The bazaar offers an array of art and antiques, where treasures are sold right around small cantinas and restaurants. Nearby, the Centro Cultural Isidro Fabela, or Casa del Risco, boasts a large baroque fountain made of shattered porcelain. Within walking distance is the Iglesia San Jacinto church dating from the 16^th-century, with a matching baroque-style altar.  With many ecclesiastical sites around San Angel and large markets, the area is well lit and does not attract a large crime rate as it is carefully monitored day and night by the local police force.

Coyoacánis just east of San Angel, and is a suburban neighborhood renowned for its lovely town square, old estates, colonial-era cobblestone streets, and some of the most notable museums in Mexico City. It is ideal to travel to this neighborhood as a day trip, because it is difficult to find accommodations. Giving off an almost Bohemian essence, the neighborhood offers a hippie-style market on Sundays, and is known for its beatnik feel as the location of Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, and Leon Trotsky’s home after their exile from Stalin’s regime in the USSR. This neighborhood does not attract a large group of affluent visitors, and as such is not considered a target for petty thievery and crime.

Although these neighborhoods are recognized as safe locations for traveling in Mexico City, it is important that travelers looking to explore the cityfollow tips for getting around safely. Travelers are discouraged from hailing taxis in the street; most hotels recommend that the concierge or front desk call for a cab. When they do so, they also take the number of the taxi as well as the driver’s name. Official Taxis, or Taxis Autorizados, have stands at airports and bus stations that are safe for visitors to hail on their own. It is also helpful to blend into crowds as much as possible by avoiding carrying maps or any symbols that would label someone as a tourist to avoid being a target for thievery. The hotel room safe is an ideal location to stash any extra cash, credit cards, or a passport. Visitors are advised to carry only a small amount of cash that they need for the moment. Most importantly, if travelers feel unsafe, hotel managers and staff are knowledgeable, and can point you in the right direction or alert you to any areas of the city that you can trust or to those areas that should avoid. Should you have items that are stolen abroad, more information can be found here.

For information on traveling to romantic spots in Mexico, check out romantic hotels in Puerto Vallarta.

Anna Patrick is a Communications major at Boston College and a frequent commuter between Boston and the Washington DC metropolitan area in Northern Virginia. A seasoned traveler, Patrick has lived in London and traveled extensively throughout Mexico, Canada, Austria, Germany, Italy, France, the Czech Republic, Greece, Scotland, England and Turkey.

Written by Anna Patrick

Internationally recognized as a popular wedding and honeymoon destination, the picturesque beaches, charming restaurants, and tropical resorts on Mexico’s Pacific Coast city of Puerto Vallarta attract thousands of visitors every year. Puerto Vallarta can be divided into two sections:  The northern half features lavish resorts and alluring beaches, while its other half near the Rio Cuale is characterized by tranquil towns nestled along jungle hillsides. Puerta Vallarta is an ideal spot for a romantic getaway and couples searching for the perfect escape will find what they’re looking for at many of Puerta Vallarta’s exclusive, romantic hotels.

***Dreams Puerto Vallarta Resort & Spa

Encased in the Sierra Madre Mountains and surrounded by nearly 2000 feet of isolated white sand beaches, the Dreams Puerto Vallarta Resort & Spa exudes romance and exclusivity in its own private cove. Boasting 337 expansive guest rooms, each space is decorated in vibrant Mexican décor, with vast marble floors and artwork by artist Manuel Lepe. The peaceful environment is enriched by the tranquil refuge of the five restaurants and lounges, both offering patio seating and serving Mexican and Italian specialties. With both of the two main buildings facing the ocean, the views of rolling waves and lush mountains combine to create an atmosphere of beauty and romance. (Playa Las Estacas; [tel] + (52) 322-226-5000; www.vallarta-dreaming.com)

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***Presidente InterContinental

For the couple seeking a more stylish retreat, the Presidente InterContinental offers a sophisticated sanctuary located on one of the city’s best beaches. Each room is decorated in an elegant Mexican style, which complements the beautiful ocean views to provide a romantic and luxurious feel. Amenities range from chic shops, a fitness center, to kayaking and snorkeling. Each room also comes with a private terrace typical of a Mexican beachfront residence that offers guests their own private ocean view. (Carretera Barra De Navidad Km 8.5;  [tel] + (52) 322-228-0191; www.hotelcasavelas.com)

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***Casa Velas Hotel Boutique

Bordered by the sunny Bay of Banderas and emerald beaches, couples staying at Casa Velas Hotel Boutique can enjoy a romantic walk to Marina Vallarta and Puerto Vallarta’s El Centro and El Malecon, the famous mile-long oceanfront boardwalk. The rooms are warmly adorned with Mexican textures and colors, and feature private balconies and secluded plunge pools and Jacuzzis. The hotel also offers special honeymoon packages, allowing couples to experience a picturesque sunset cruise followed by a romantic tour of local Los Caletas, a private tropical beach rimmed with coastal views of the bay. (Pelicanos 311, Fracc Marina Vallarta; [tel]+ (52) 322-226-6688; www.ichotelsgroup.com/intercontinental/en/gb/locations/overview/puertovallarta)

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***Villa Del Palmar Beach Resort & Spa

Located on the tropical beaches of Banderas Bay, Villa Del Palmar offers a unique view of the tropical and enchanting nature of old Mexico. A typical suite is decorated with light sand walls and calming white accents leading to an outdoor terrace. Couples can get cozy at nightly themed shows and dinner. For those feeling adventurous, the multiple pools at the hotel offer an array of activities – like beach and water volleyball, shuffleboard, Guacamole and Mexican salsa-making, and even Spanish lessons. The hotel also offers romantic excursions, from horseback riding on the beach to sunset cruises. The pool is also an attraction in itself, featuring a water slide in the shape of a killer whale. However, the hotel also caters to couples looking to relax, and their Bay Breeze spa is open twelve hours a day offering outdoor massage treatments. (Blvd. Francisco Medina Ascencio Km 2.5; + (52) 322-226-1400; www.villagroupresorts.com)

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***Hacienda San Angel

Couples looking to experience a traditional Mexican luxury villa will be attracted to the Hacienda San Angel Hotel nestled along the Sierra Madre Mountains and the azure Banderas Bay. The unparalleled lavish accommodations offer classic Mexican style, from the hand-woven rugs to the tiled bathrooms and include spacious outdoor gardens and pools. This is a truly unique hotel catering to couples seeking a traditional Mexican hideaway combined with tropical beaches and gardens. The hotel’s Puerto del Cielo, or private chapel, is also available for weddings and special events and is near Puerto Vallarta’s signature landmark, Guadalupe Cathedral. The romantic haciendas featured in this hotel are appointed with all of the amenities traditional of Mexican hospitality, with unique handmade linens and precious pieces of art. (Miramar 336, Col Centro; + (52) 322-222-2692; www.haciendasanangel.com)

For more on Mexico, take a look at its safest neighborhoods in Mexico City. For more from this author, check out the romantic and dazzling beaches of Costa Rica.

Anna Patrick is a Communications major at Boston College and a frequent commuter between Boston and the Washington DC metropolitan area in Northern Virginia. A seasoned traveler, Patrick has lived in London and traveled extensively throughout Mexico, Canada, Austria, Germany, Italy, France, the Czech Republic, Greece, Scotland, England and Turkey.

Diego Rivera was arguably one of the greatest and most renowned Mexican and World wide artists of the 20th Century.  For at least sixty years, Dolores (“Lola”) Olmedo did not have the slightest doubt about who the greatest painter of the twentieth century was. While in the USSR in the 1950s, Diego Rivera often sent Dolores Olmedo love letters and notes, one of which he translated into a mural that spans the entire ceiling of his studio that she had specifically constructed for him on her estate in Acapulco. Following his surgery, and treatment for prostate cancer in late 1955 in the USSR, Olmedo invited him to recuperate at her Acapulco vacation estate, House of the Winds, which she had purchased in 1951. In the 18 short months before his death he had created 5 large murals, 24 sunset paintings, and numerous lithographs of Dolores’s children. These priceless works of art were his way of showing his lifelong friend and patron just how much he appreciated her generosity, friendship and love at that time and throughout the years.

Now 7 years after Dolores’ passing the private estate is being offered for sale by the family. Never before has there been such a unique opportunity to own Diego Rivera Murals, no to mention on such a magnificent private property which overlooks the famous La Quebrada cliffs on the Pacific side in Acapulco.

The facade of Exekatlkalli (House of the Winds) features the rarest of murals created by Mexico’s most important and influential artist and muralist of the Twentieth Century, Diego Rivera. Rare and unique because they all relay unique messages that relate to the naming of the estate~ House Of The Winds. Rare because they are the last ones he completed before his death in 1957. And rare because they are the only Diego Rivera murals to exist on privately owned land in the entire world. House of the Winds not only possesses the facade murals, which draw thousands of art enthusiasts from around the globe each year, but also three additional murals located in the maestro’s studio – two gracing the exterior patio and one covering the entire ceiling of his studio. These registered historic landmarks were created in 18 months from 1955 to 1957, in which time Rivera also painted 24 the famous stunning sunset scenes and produced numerous lithographs of Dolores Olmedo’s children. Sitting in the magnificent room where Diego painted and enjoyed his days with his dear friend Dolores, you can feel the history still lives in this home and the studio.

ABOUT DIEGO RIVERA

Diego was a leader in the Mexican mural movement believing art should serve the working people, not just the wealthy and so he became interested in frescos where he took the art outdoors where everyone could enjoy them. Diego represented the working class people, painting murals on public buildings with narratives of the story and history of his native country.

One of his first Murals in Mexico was a work at the National Preparatory School in 1922, at which time Frida Kahlo was a student there. He went on to paint a series of frescos for the Ministry of Education, and one at the National Agriculture School. He worked in a modernist artistic style and is best known for his powerful, politically charged public murals painted on the architecture and walls of Mexico and the United States. He is one of “Los Tress Grandes” of Mexican modernism, along with Josè Clemente Orzoco and David Alfaro Siqueiros creating artwork with revolutionary, politically leftist themes.  Diego was both talented and politically controversial, refusing to separate his political message from his work. He was more socialist while Siqueiros was an open communist.

ABOUT DOLORES OLMEDO

Savvy businesswoman, art collector and socialite are synonymous with the name Dolores Olmedo Patiño. She was a loving mother who raised four wonderful children, as well as a great philanthropist who loved her native country.

Dolores was born in 1908 in Chilpancingo, Guerrero, Mexico to Maria Patiño Suarez who was a professor and Manuel Olmedo Mayagoitia, a businessman. She would go on to become an educated woman who, not only amassed the largest collection of pre-Columbian artifacts, but also turned a brick factory, on the edge of extinction, into the largest construction firm in Latin America. This in itself was an incredible accomplishment during the 1940s for a young Mexican woman: A time when men ruled and women in the workforce were virtually unheard of. This experience was perhaps what made her a respected no-nonsense businesswoman who always went after what she wanted and, more often than not, got it.

Dolores Olmedos first marriage was to Howard S. Phillips, a naturalized Briton who decided to remain in Mexico after reporting on the Mexican Revolution. This marriage – her longest – produced three sons and one daughter. Her four children each went on to achieve success in their own right; Alfredo Phillips Olmedo was appointed Mexican Ambassador to both Canada and Japan, served in Congress, and was Chief Executive of the North American Development Bank; Eduardo Phillips Olmedo is a prominent cybernetic engineer and project manager who worked for Kodak, Renault & American Motors Company and is credited for creating the computer systems and networks for the Mexican Finance Ministry; Irene Phillips Olmedo is a talented professional and highly regarded celebrity in México City;  Carlos Phillips Olmedo currently handles the historical and cultural landmark museums (Casa Azul, The Anahuacalli, and La Noria) bequeathed by his mother to the People of Mexico.
“Casa Azul” (The Blue House) in Coyoacán is now a museum dedicated to artist Frida Kahlo. It is the home where she was born, where she spent her whole life – with her family and then with husband, Diego Rivera – and eventually died in.

“The Anahuacalli Museo” (Mexico City Valley House) was the home in which Diego Rivera lived in Mexico City. It was transformed into a tribute/museum to the artist in 1963 by Dolores Olmedo and opened to the public in 1964. His vision was to create a “City of the Arts” in a pyramid shaped structure with an atmosphere where music, theatre, crafts and dance could be enjoyed by everyone. “La Noria” (The Well) in Xochimilco is a spectacular 16th Century monastery where Dolores Olmedo resided and eventually restored and created the Museo Dolores Olmedo. This historic property is home to the largest collection of original works by Diego Rivera – 143 pieces including 24 sunset paintings created from his favorite chair as he gazed out over the Pacific Ocean from the living room of House of the Winds in Acapulco. A bronze likeness of Rivera greets La Noria’s worldwide visitors. Immaculate grounds are roamed by graceful peacocks as do eighteen Xoloitzcuintle – the beloved rare hairless breed that Dolores Olmedo was very fond of. Giving La Noria to the people of Mexico was an extremely generous gift to Mexico, and to visitors worldwide, as the artwork and artifacts it houses span more than 400 years of history and worth hundreds of millions of dollars. This generosity was perhaps a life quest that was set into motion when her mother, Maria Patiño Suarez told her daughter, “Share all that you have with other people”.

Despite the focus on her social status, along with her philanthropy work, art and artifact collections, and business dealings, one can hardly mention Dolores Olmedo without mentioning Diego Rivera as well. Perhaps it is because her museum houses the largest Diego Rivera collection (with thousands of smaller items such as letters, notes, etc. not on display yet) – or the fact that Rivera named her “Custodian of his Art” upon his death. Or maybe it’s because he adorned her Acapulco estate, House of the Winds, with five grand murals while he was her houseguest from 1955 to 1957. Whatever the reason, the two had become life-long friends after a meeting when she was 12 years old.

Just when Diego Rivera returned from U.S.S.R. in 1956 and being already in Acapulco, he portrayed on the studio the letter that he sent to Lola who was in Europe:  “From the land of peace the artist toad flew through the clouds to deliver its palette and its heart to its beloved”.  The letter to Lola Olmedo is represented on the ceiling of the studio by a dove; the land of peace is represented by the hammer and sickle (U.S.S.R.); there is a plane, fish, the toad (symbol of Diego Rivera) and the heart (Dolores Olmedo) with four stars (her children).

“House of The Winds” estate has a total of 9,746 square feet of living space between the home and studio. The estate is host to Diego Rivera Studio Acapulco, a freestanding building within the compound. The pool and grounds are dense with tropical foliage, huge windows, magnificent vistas, and spectacular decks overlooking the Pacific Ocean, La Quebrada cliff diving platform, and the yacht club harbor hosting the Acapulco Marina.

This property is a cultural landmark and represents a unique opportunity to acquire major Diego Rivera murals. To learn more about this unique offering please visit (bi lingual website) www.houseofthewinds.com or contact Heidi Wosak of Century 21 Sun & Sand. heidiwosak@century21penasco.com

Exchanging money in Mexico can get very expensive.

Planning a trip to Mexico can be stressful unless you know exactly where you’re going and what you need to do before you get there. Trip planning is not just about flight details, hotel reservations, restaurant choices and local attractions; there are other important things to consider before you leave home. Traveling through Mexico is an exciting adventure, but it can turn into a costly, risky nightmare if you don’t exchange currency before you leave home. Mexican police added more patrols in Mexico City’s Airport last year, because thieves were attacking arriving tourists immediately after they exchange their currency for Pesos. Not only did the tourists pay a higher rate to exchange money in the airport, they risked their own safety to do it.

Internet currency exchange sites are not much better.

Some travelers do make an effort to exchange currency for Pesos on the Internet before they leave home, but they do it without researching the currency market first. Websites like Western Union, Travelex, Wells Fargo and Bank of America are all known for money transactions, but the fees they charge for these transactions can be as high as 23%. For every $1000 you exchange you pay up to $230 in extra fees, which means you have 77% of your budget left for trip expenses.

The value of the Peso is always fluctuating, so unless you follow the currency trading market consistently, meaning every hour, chances are you’re going to blow part of your budget on a phony Internet exchange rate. Visa, MasterCard and American Express will exchange your currency to Pesos online, but not without adding a hefty profit to each transaction. They also add a fee to each credit card purchase while you’re visiting Mexico.

What strategy can I use to save money when I exchange currency for Pesos?

Veteran traveler’s do research and asks questions before they start exchanging money, especially if they’re using the Internet. The first question to ask is: Who is promoting the Internet exchange site? If it’s a financial institution, you can bet they are making a nice profit on each exchange. The next question is: Does the website offer good advice about exchanging currency? Some websites offer you advice based on inaccurate research, or the information is based on personal experiences, which may not apply to your situation. The third question is: Is the advice real time advice, or is it outdated information? Some websites post information that no longer applies to current currency exchange facts and figures.

The two most important things you need to know in order to exchange currency and save money in the process is the current rate for your exchange pair and where to get that rate. In other words, if you’re exchanging American Dollars for Mexican Pesos, you want to know what the actual exchange value is for that pair at the time you make an exchange. A professional currency broker can give you that information. The next thing you need to know is where you can get that rate of exchange. Once again, a currency broker will exchange your currency using a real time rate and will notify you when the market fluctuates, so you can take advantage of the natural movement in the market. A currency broker will help you average your exchanges before you leave home, so you avoid a sudden surge in the value of the Peso. A currency broker does make a couple of points on each transaction, but you will save money when you use one. If you have Internet access once you arrive in Mexico, you can continue to exchange your currency with a broker quickly and efficiently.

Saving money when you exchange currency will give you more money to spend on the things that count, like duty free souvenirs or that sombrero you can’t live without.

ForexTraders.com wrote this article to help save you money before you travel to Mexico. To learn more about currencies and the several factors to consider when doing currency trading, such as; a country’s economy, undercapitalization, brokers, technical and fundamental analysis etc, visit ForexTraders.com.

Flickr photo by Lucy Nieto

Puerto Vallarta is a huge attraction for people from all over the world. The most common time to travel to Puerto Vallarta is in November through March. If you want to avoid the mad dash to this city from college spring breakers, find out the most common dates. It is usually during the second half of March when it is invaded. Here are a few restaurants that are worth checking out during your stay.

Pipi’s Restaurant and Bar

If you are looking for a great place to have a nice meal on the water, this is a place you want to check out. The Braised Pork Shank on a bed of pureed plantains is pretty darn tasty. The view makes the food taste even better. Margaritas watching the sunset make for a guaranteed good time.

Pricey, but really fine dining

Cafe Artistes is a very charming, high end restaurant that is a great place to celebrate something special. The food is exquisite, but does come at a price. They have the option of choosing a fixed price menu of 3, 4 or 5 courses.

What’s your favorite restaurant?

Photo from http://www.flickr.com/photos/queen_of_subtle

If you want more information about Puerto Vallarta or Nayarit, you can check out those two resources or if you have related websites you can add them.

Alvin Starkman  M.A., LL.B.
Try searching the Americas to find creators of folk art with more form, symbolism and importance to the development and sustenance of their culture, than those of indigenous ancestry in Oaxaca (wa–HAW–ka), one of the southernmost Mexican states.

Many so-called experts in folk art have mistakenly written that the origins of Oaxaca’s wood carving tradition date back fifty or sixty years, to a small number of carvers residing in one of the central valleys of Oaxaca, a few miles from the state capital of the same name.  The error has consistently been equating the recent commercialization of the art-form with its origins, and ignoring its pre-Hispanic roots and subsequent development.

Jacobo Ángeles lives with his wife María and two children in San Martín Tilcajete, one of three main native Zapotec villages, where most residents earn a living from carving and painting colorful figures, often generically referred to as alebrijes.  The others are Arrazola and La Unión Tejalapan.

At age 12 Jacobo began learning to carve from his father.  Later on he was mentored by village elders.  “Over the past few decades our craft has without a doubt changed dramatically,” Jacobo explains, “with the use of more synthetic paints, a tremendous increase in the range of figures being carved, and with domestic and international demand for our carvings growing exponentially and affecting how and what we produce.  But remember, my ancestors were carving animals right here in this region before the Spanish arrived in the 1500’s.  And we were using only natural paint colors which we derived from fruits and vegetables, plants and tree bark, clay, and even insects.  In my family we still use what we find around us to make paint for our figures, and our wood of choice continues to be the branches of the copal tree.”

San Martín Tilcajete is located about a 40 minute drive from the city of Oaxaca, along a highway leading to the state’s Pacific resort towns, including one of the oldest ports, Puerto Escondido.  Puerto Escondido was a hub for the export of coffee and other cash crops during colonial times, but is now a popular beach destination for Mexican and international vacationers alike.  Many travelers combine their sun and sand vacation with a visit to Oaxaca, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, searching out unique pieces of folk art including dance masks, pottery and clay figures, rugs and tapestries, and antiques from the colonial period forward.  And of course there are the pre-Hispanic ruins, galleries, impressive Dominican churches, museums, and renowned Oaxacan cuisine.

“My ancestors used a 20-day calendar,” Jacobo continues, “and each day was represented by a different creature.  So every Zapotec person had an animal with whom he had a connection, and each animal had certain characteristics which carried over to the individual.  For example, the jaguar represents power and ultimate strength, the frog is characterized by honesty and openness, the coyote watchful observation, the turtle always a troublemaker prone to breaking the rules, the eagle technical and strategic power, and so on.  My people used to carve figures of just these 20 animals.  They started out as small whittlings for good luck that people would keep in a revered niche in the home, or wear around the neck as amulets.  They also carved larger figures for their children to use as toys.”

After much probing, an almost forgotten story emerges of the use of decoys of wood and other materials.   Jacobo reveals:  “My people used a variety of methods to attract different kinds of game, but for hunting birds of prey, rabbits, and deer, yes they at times used decoys.  A painted wooden snake would be placed on the ground in an area where ants had trampled the grasses so the snake decoy would easily be seen by eagles.  To hunt rabbit, my ancestors would attach a rabbit tail to one end of a straw hat, and at the other end another tail with a face painted on it.  For deer, a crude wooden deer torso with real antlers would be placed in the tall brush.  So carving was historically important to our people for not only totemic and related reasons, but it was directly related to our subsistence.  All the written records from the period of the conquest, and not just local legend, confirm the importance of woodcarving.”

“But look at what we now carve.  While in my family we still use natural paints, and still carve our totems, we’ve transformed a simple yet important and symbolic tradition into something very different.  In our villages we now carve many more than those 20 animals because of collector demand.  More importantly, we’re able to make our heritage better understood and appreciated by the world.  In our own workshop, our painting depicts designs and representations of our culture … friezes from the ancient ruin at Mitla, symbols representing waves, mountains and fertility, the totems, and other metaphors for our culture, past and present.”

Indeed the world has taken notice.   Jacobo’s work is prominently displayed in The Smithsonian Institute, Chicago’s National Museum of Mexican Art, and elsewhere throughout the continent and further abroad, in museums, art colleges and galleries.  Jacobo regularly traverses the U.S. promoting Oaxacan folk art and his Zapotec heritage, teaching in a diversity of educational venues ranging from junior schools to university departments of fine art, and as honored speaker at art exhibition openings.

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A visit to the Ángeles workshop, accessed by a heavily pot-holed narrow dirt road towards one end of the village, affords an opportunity to learn about this extraordinary skill-set, from Jacobo, Maria — an excellent painter in her own right — and some two dozen other members of their family who produce some of the finest quality carvings found anywhere on the continent.

The men do most of the carving, while women do most of the painting, but the tasks are definitely not exclusively based on gender lines. Carving is done with non – mechanical hand-tools such as machetes, chisels and knives.  The only time a more sophisticated tool is used is when a chain saw is employed to cut off a branch and level a base for a proposed figure.

Except when a special order is received, the woodworkers in the family are given artistic license to carve whatever figure they wish.  A piece of tree trunk will “speak” to one of these specialists, and be the inspiration for creating a particular animal: the shape, thickness, and bends and twists in the piece come alive.  After the bark is removed, a detailed outline is drawn, defining the image with greater clarity and detail.  The sculpting in earnest then begins.

“From the female copal tree we are able to make figures out of one piece of wood, often very large and intricate.  This wood is soft and easy to work with.  The male tree is harder, and branches tend to be smaller and somewhat delicate, so we use it to make animals which we assemble in the process.”

The carving alone takes up to a month, at times longer.  The figure is then left to dry for up to 10 months, depending on its overall size and thickness.  Because of the properties of copal, and Oaxaca’s semi-tropical climate, the wood is susceptible to termite infestation.  Accordingly, during the drying process the piece is soaked in a gasoline / insecticide mixture for several hours.  As an added assurance, it’s then placed in an oven, just in case eggs have evaded extermination.  “All of our pieces are guaranteed to never have a termite [powder post beetle] problem,” Jacobo assures.

Since the figures are fashioned while the wood is green and more easily workable, the wood separates while drying. “There are a couple of members of my family whose main job is to fill the cracks before the painting begins.”  For this remedial work they use wood shims as well as a sawdust-glue mixture.  But even these slivers of wood and the sawdust have been cured.  “We’re proud of our work, and never want to have any problems with any of our buyers, whether someone is spending $20 or $2,000.”

In almost all cases in the Ángeles workshop, one person carves and another paints.  Once a figure has left the hands of the carver, all proprietary rights are released, and another member of the family is entrusted with the painting.  Nephew Magdaleno explains:  “Occasionally one of my cousins will come up to me and say ‘what do you think about these colors or this kind of design concept for this coyote,’ and I’ll give my feedback, but it doesn’t happen very often, and I’m invariably pleased with the result.  For me it’s the form that’s most important, and for whoever’s painting, it’s the imagery it captures.”

One cannot help but gasp at the sculpting genius which goes into each piece:  A starving dog scratching fleas, a bear with its paw in a honey pot, a snake constricting a wincing jaguar, a winged horse on its hinds, a woman with long braided locks and the body of an armadillo, or a deer, life-size by Mexican standards.  There’s something particularly arresting about each creation: the ever-so-flowing and realistic movement, a fanciful stance, or a familiar pose striking a chord with our popular characterization.  However the painting is anything but familiar.  No color goes untested and the intricacy of and variation in design is remarkable.

Theories abound regarding the beginning of the modern-day manifestation of the tradition.  Some say that because hallucinogenic mushrooms are native to this part of Mexico, drug induced revelations caused the imaginations of some to wander, ultimately becoming expressed in their carvings.  The better explanation is that knowledge of colorful, large, papier maché alebrijes or dragon-like forms which originated in the State of Mexico, eventually filtered down to Oaxaca, and were the inspiration for the fathers of contemporary painted wooden carvings.  “You know, it’s not accurate to refer to what we create as alebrijes, because to the older generation of Mexicans, and to true folk art collectors, alebrijes were developed near D.F. (Distrito Federal, or Mexico City, the nation’s capital), and what we do is completely different.”

Jacobo demonstrates how his ancestors created natural paints, historically utilized for dying clothing, painting buildings, and ceremonially as face and body decoration used for rites of passage, fiestas, prayer and other important occasions.  Today their primary use, at least in Jacobo’s family, is for painting the carvings.  He explains with the assistance of his machete and a tree trunk how he cuts away the reddish inside part of the bark of the male copal, allows it to dry, then toasts and grinds it:  “This is a primary base that we use, which allows us to create a range of colors, tones and shades. Just watch.”

Using his hands as palettes, Jacobo begins by placing a small amount of the powdered bark in one hand, squeezes juice from a lime, creating a brown, which he then places on an unpainted wooden owl.  “Yes the owl is also one of our sacred creatures, the great healer, quiet and humble.”  He reveals:  “Now over time, and in the sun, this color will change or fade and be absorbed into the wood.  So what our ancestors learned to do was take the dried sap from the copal tree and heat it up with honey.  The resulting liquid is then mixed with the paint, changing the color a little; see, it becomes a deep orange … but most importantly it acts as a mordent making the color permanent, and a little shiny.” He adds powdered limestone, and the color changes to black.  With the addition of baking soda and more lime juice it becomes a deep yellow, and with more chemical it miraculously becomes magenta.  A new base is then started, with crushed pomegranate seeds.  Magically the pulverized pink is transformed into green with the addition of limestone powder. Mixed with the magenta, it becomes navy blue. With the addition of zinc it becomes grey, and with more zinc, white.  Blue from the añil tree, indigo, is altered with the addition of bicarbonate, zinc, lime juice or the powdered lime mineral.  Corn mold, a black gooey culinary delicacy known as huitlacoche, when fermented and then powdered, yields ochre.  The red of the dried and then crushed minute insect, the cochineal, which feeds off its host nopal cactus, becomes orange with the addition of the juice of any of a number of acidic fruits.

The demonstration terminates with Jacobo asking, “what´s your favorite animal,” following which he finger paints a rabbit from the rainbow of colors on his palms, as only Alice could have imagined.

******************

With approximately 150 families now producing painted wooden figures in these and a couple of other smaller villages, the questions left unanswered remain:  What facilitated and drove more carvers to adopt the papier maché style of using brilliant color combinations, and how can everyone in these villages make a living from this solitary art-form?

As with other crafts in the central valleys of Oaxaca, their production wasn’t always the primary means of sustenance for the populace.  Traditionally, handicrafts were a hobby or part-time trade, beginning with very few items being sold to the odd passerby, adventurer or traveler.  In the case of rugs from nearby Teotitlán del Valle, there were trade routes that producers followed in order to effect more sales in other regions of the state, and in some cases beyond.  But the primary means of family survival was working the land and small-scale ranching.  And in the case of the carving villages, there never was a broader market, although in San Martín Tilcajete embroidered shirts, blouses and dresses were an extremely well-received craft throughout the 1960’s and into the 80’s.

Dramatic change in production and marketing of wooden carvings had its genesis in the 1940’s.  The pan-American highway cut through the Sierra Madre del Sur mountains, reaching Oaxaca, opening up the region to the north, in particular Mexico City and the border states.  Until then Oaxaca was relatively isolated notwithstanding a rail connection. By the 1950’s and early 60’s Americans and Canadians were prospering from the post-war boom, credit cards had been mailed to virtually everyone, and word spread of a new kind of vacation, in a third world country, Mexico.  Jet air travel facilitated the transformation.  The women’s movement meant more two income families, resulting in more disposable income for traveling.  Mexicana Airlines and Oaxacan travel agents partnered to begin offering tour packages, which further facilitated tourism to the region.

The hippie movement of the 1960’s and early 70’s brought Oaxaca to the forefront of the alternative lifestyle, with throngs of youth and their pop idols traveling to Huautla de Jiménez, then a tiny Oaxacan village, to eat hallucinogenic mushrooms with the now infamous healer María Sabina.  North American youth saw and purchased the first generation of contemporary wood carvings.

By the 1980’s, as a consequence of multiple factors, Oaxacan alebrijes had become well-established as folk art, with the market continuing to grow. The economic implication was that farmers and ranchers were able to spend more time carving and painting, and less time in the countryside and in marketplaces vending their produce and animals.   With a new toll-road opening from Mexico City to Oaxaca in 1995, access to the southern state became even quicker and easier, and safe. In good conscience, travel writers were no longer able to warn tourists about driving the switchbacks, back-road banditos, or cars overheating on secondary roads without service stations.

The future market for the artistry?   While the odd visitor to a Oaxacan coastal resort such as Puerto Escondido, or the more popular Huatulco, does visit the state capital and the workshops of carvers like Jacobo, most do not.  Within the next four years a new highway to the coast will open, cutting road travel time by at least a third.  Even more sun worshipers will visit Oaxaca, and marvel at the art of Jacobo and María Ángeles.

Since opening their family workshop in 1996, without a doubt Jacobo and María have singularly raised the quality bar for other villagers who aspire to mirror their success.  With Oaxacan wood carvings of superior quality now well established on the world stage, and access no longer an impediment, the challenge for others in San Martín Tilcajete will be to achieve the success of the Ángeles family through production of like quality, until now eluding most.

A challenge for all carvers in the region is to ensure a continuous supply of copal to meet demand.  A reforestation project spear-headed about 15 years ago by the late master of contemporary Mexican art, Rodolfo Morales, continues through his Foundation.  The Ángeles family with friends and other villagers spend the last Sunday of each July, in the midst of the rainy season, planting, a part of their sustainable living effort:  ensuring an ongoing supply of raw product, cutting only branches for making figures so that the tree continues to grow, reducing waste by utilizing the slivers and sawdust in repair work and any remaining twigs and branches as firewood for cooking, and using the sap and bark in paint production.  “And you know,” Jacobo reminds, “for generations we’ve been using the hardened sap as incense, mainly at religious cememonies.  There are even knifemakers down the road in Ocotlán, who engrave their hand-forged blades using a special ink made with the sap.  Have you visited the cuchillería of Ángel Aguilar?”

For high end collectors, we can only encourage the success of all efforts aimed at maintaining the growth and development of the Oaxacan woodcarving tradition, since it satisfies and advances our penchant for and obsession with quality hand-fashioned craftsmanship.  For the artisans in the region, aside from the obvious economic importance, it’s part of maintaining their Zapotec heritage and illustrating the richness of the culture to the broader world.

The workshop of Jacobo and María Ángeles is located at Calle Olvido #9, San Martín Tilcajete, Ocotlán, Oaxaca  ( t:   951-524-9047 ;  w:  http://www.tilcajete.org  ;  e:  angeles@tilcajete.org ).

Alvin Starkman together with wife Arlene operates Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast ( http://www.oaxacadream.com ).  Alvin received his masters in social anthropology in 1978, and his law degree in 1984.  Thereafter he was a litigator in Toronto until taking early retirement.  He and his family were frequent visitors to Oaxaca between 1991 and when they became permanent residents in 2004. Alvin writes about life and cultural traditions in Oaxaca, tours couples, families and small groups to the craft villages, ruins, colonial churches and more off-the-beaten-track destinations in Oaxaca state, and is a special consultant to documentary film production companies.

By Patrick Connelly

With thousands of miles of coastline on both the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific Ocean, the country is a sportfisherman’s dream. The fish are big. The prices are low. But deciding where to go – and who to hire – is difficult and can make or break a trip.

Lower Baja – Cabo San Lucas and Loreto

Despite being close together geographically, Cabo and Loreto are yin and yang in terms of fishing.  Cabo is famous for big gamefish – marlin, tuna, shark, and dolphin – that prowl the steep banks off shore.  The fishing can be crazy at times, especially when large schools of baitfish congregate on the dropoffs.  Additionally, the sportfishing industry is well developed and there is no trouble finding a boat; however, the quality varies widely.

Loreto, on the other hand, excels in light tackle angling.  Fishing here is good year-round, with yellowfin tuna in the winter months and huge numbers of dorado in the summer.  Larger game, such as marlin and grouper, can also be found, but Loredo is really a light tackle paradise.

Puerto Vallarta, Mazatlan

Across the gulf and down the coast from Loreto is the billfishing mecca of Mazatlan.  Huge marlin congregate in large schools in the winter and spring months with sailfish, tuna, and dorado available year-round.  About every species of sportfish in the Pacific frequent Mazatlan’s waters at some point of the year, uncluding wahoo and roosterfish.

Similarly, Puerto Vallarta offers a buffet line of game fish species to target, from marlin to sailfish to tuna.  Any month of the year holds the possibility of landing a number of large fish in a day.  It may be a huge tourist resort town, but with so much competition among charter boats good deals can be found.

Cancun/Cozumel

Across the country on the Gulf of Mexico, the megaresorts of Cancun and Cozumel offer unsurpassed fishing in the gulf.  While the billfish are usually smaller than their Pacific counterparts, many people claim that their numbers are much higher in the gulf, with multiple hookups a day not uncommon.  Also, the smaller sizes of marlin and sailfish offer great opportunites to take these beasts on flyrods.  Speaking of fly fishing, the numerous islands around Cancun and Cozumel hold endless, virgin flats with tarpon, bonefish, barracuda, and permit.

photo provided by blackmarlinfishing at http://www.flickr.com/photos/blackmarlinfishingblog/2582943383/

Know of some other Mexican fishing hotspots? Reviews, tips, recommendations?  Share your knowledge below

Alvin Starkman, M.A., LL.B.

If visitors to Oaxacan cooking school La Casa de los Sabores came away with nothing more than great recipes and a gastronomic meal rich in unique herb- and spice-accented flavor combinations that are the hallmark of Oaxacan cuisine, they would leave fully satisfied. But a visit with owner and chef extraordinaire Pilar Cabrera also inspires and sates travelers with a sensual day-long immersion into sights, sounds, smells and, yes, tastes and time-tested recipes of southern Mexico.

As always, a recent culinary odyssey with Pili, as she is known, began at La Casa de los Sabores first thing in the morning – at 9:30 a.m. Over the next few hours, she introduced me and the others in the class to the wisdom and experience of her great matriarchal culinary tradition. Pili learned the basics and the subtleties, including the mysteries of the famed seven moles, from her grandmother, who learned from her grandmother before her. She is a Oaxaca-born master of southern Mexico cookery as well as international epicurean trends, capable of sharing the secrets of preparing the most multifarious meal with novice and expert alike – in English and in Spanish.

Our day began with Pili’s informal talk about the menu and the foods she was going to introduce us to in one of Oaxaca’s colorful markets. The extra attention to the key ingredients of Oaxacan cuisine kept us spellbound. “What we will achieve today with the chilis,” she told us, “is hot and tropical … with the Chile de agua, you will see we use it not only for flavor but color as well, and I will teach you how we keep this beautiful, brilliant green.”

Once prepared with this knowledge, we all embarked on a shopping trip to the well-known marketplace, Mercado de La Merced, armed with multihued bolsas – market bags – to carry the compras – purchases. Pili had readied a partial shopping list, but, she advised us, she always adds “surprises,” such as fresh foodstuffs which peasant women from the mountains sometimes bring down.

“When you have a chance to find something real special or unusual, you buy and incorporate into the comida,” she explained. “Today, for instance, we look for mushrooms, because they grow so beautifully in the rainy season. Also, we will see what kind of fresh fruit we can use for the dessert.”

Her insights into the unique stores and small factories enriched the short walk to the market. A rich bouquet drew us into a mill that was making chocolate from scratch. As Pilar told us about the ingredients – cacao, cinnamon, almonds and sugar – the owner welcomed us with, “do you want to taste?”

The lesson began in earnest when Pilar began methodically searching through the indoor and outdoor portions of the marketplace and exchanging pesos for its plethora of fresh produce.

“Look at that lady sitting there, what she has in those bowls,” she said. “She just brought those raspberries and blackberries from the Sierra Juarez. We can use them for the dessert. Notice how fresh and beautiful. The mushrooms beside them, see the size, how big and the bright orange color … this is the time of year, but not for our recipe today … Over here, we don’t buy the big green tomatillos. I prefer the little ones grown locally because they are not acidy like the others, and they have much more flavor, perfect for the salsa we are preparing today.”

She encouraged us to smell the herbs as she explained their use in particular Oaxacan dishes. “Today we use this hierba santa for the mole,” she said as she was examining samples of the fragrant leaf until she’d found the best and freshest for storage in one of our bolsas. “But we also use it to wrap fish and make tamales.”

Lynet who had been in Puerto Escondido on the Oaxacan coast for six months, expressed the wish of many as she lamented, “I wish I’d been in this class at the beginning of our trip.”

Our enthusiasm and our appetites grew once we returned to Doña Pili’s well-equipped, spacious kitchen. Its wide counters, food preparation island and eight-burner gas stove opening onto the lush courtyard dining area made this cocina into an ideal classroom.

While we were reviewing printed recipe sheets for the dishes we were about to prepare, she displayed our purchases in baskets filled with the components of each recipe to help us learn why we bought what. Then we spent the next two hours preparing a sumptuous four-course meal.

Mary, her sous-chef, did preparatory work such as halving limes, slicing chilies and preparing chicken stock and poultry for the mole, freeing Pili to teach us the rituals and secrets of Oaxacan culinary seduction. Sparks from Pilar’s hearth of experience ignited even the most learned in the class as she pointed, touched, and passed around each item we purchased, telling us how it would be incorporated into the meal.

Once the actual cooking began, she put her bilingualism to good use, giving instructions and asking questions in one language, then repeating it in the other, as required by some of her visitors. “Necesito otro ayudante para quesillo, I need another helper for the cheese.” Pilar might as well be a Maestra de Español, a Spanish teacher to boot.

Everyone learned each task and participated in the preparation of virtually all menu items. And as the group peeled, diced and sautéd, Pili’s gems of information flowed on.

We learned much more than how to achieve flavor. Pilar taught us techniques on how to attain desired tones and textures: “A lot of people ask me about cleaning mushrooms,” she said at one point, demonstrating the correct technique. “Now watch to see how we clean and seed this kind of chili,” she pointed out while preparing chile guajillo for the mole. “Once we start cooking these chile de agua, we need to remember to always check them and turn them constantly.”

“Look for the hot part of the comal … now this is when you know when to turn it over,” she said while demonstrating the art and science of making tortillas.

Every once in a while a new recipe rolled off the tip of her tongue as we worked … other dishes we could prepare with this particular mole; different fillings for the quesadillas such as potato, chorizo or huitlacoche, the exotic corn mold … the texture we would want for the corn masa if we were making tamales rather than tortillas.

Soon, aprons removed, we were ready to feast. But first – “now before we sit down, remember in the market I told you there were two types of gusano worm? Here they are, so who wants to try?” she asked. “Now know about mezcal. Taste this one Alvin brought, and tell us how it seems to you. Here’s another kind. What do you think is different about this one?”

We sat down at a table exquisitely set with local hand-made linens, dishes and stemware. Bottles of Mexican and Chilean red wine were already breathing. The fine music of Oaxacan songstress Lila Downs serenaded us in the background.

Pilar reminded us that her grandmother and other relatives usually prepare their comidas with meat and all vegetables mixed together in the mole, a plate of rice on the side, and a bowl of broth. But our meal, like all the recipes she prepares with visitors at La Casa de los Sabores, would be her modern take on all the elements and flavor combinations of the best that contemporary Oaxacan cookery has to offer.

It was a celebration of every ingredient. We began with wild mushroom, onion, tomato, chili and cheese stuffing in the quesadillas de champiñones (mushroom quesadillas), complemented perfectly by smoky salsa verde asada (green sauce from the grill) served in its molcajete. Then it was time to calm our palates with bright yellow crema de flor de calabaza (cream of squash blossom soup), garnished with a drizzle of real cream, toasted calabaza seeds and indeed fresh squash blossoms. The main course or plato fuerte was mole amarillo – tender slices of chicken breast atop a sea of aromatic deep saffron-colored mole, accompanied by a medley of crunchy-fresh steamed vegetables. To conclude, arroz con leche (rice pudding), speared with a length of wild vanilla bean and crowned with berries that had been picked only the day before.

I left convinced that the grandest chefs at the most trendy Manhattan beaneries would be hard-pressed to compete with this petite Oaxaqueña’s ability to marry the region’s complex cooking with post-modern attention to color, texture and flare. For Pilar Cabrera, it comes naturally. For the rest of us, it comes with attending her classes.

La Casa de los Sabores Cooking School is located at Libres 205, in downtown Oaxaca. Maximum class size is 8, with private lessons available upon request. You can register for Pilar’s classes by calling (951) 516-5704 or e-mailing her at: bbsabores@prodigy.net.mx. ( Websites: http://www.laolla.com.mx ; http://www.mexonline.com/sabores.htm )

Alvin Starkman together with wife Arlene operates Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast ( http://www.oaxacadream.com ), a unique Oaxaca bed and breakfast experience offering the comfort and service of a large downtown Oaxaca hotel, in a quaint suburban setting with the personal touch of country inn style Oaxaca lodging. . Alvin received his masters in social anthropology in 1978, and his law degree in 1984. Thereafter he was a litigator in Toronto until taking early retirement. He and his family were frequent visitors to Oaxaca between 1991 and when they became permanent residents in 2004. Alvin reviews restaurants, writes about life and cultural traditions in Oaxaca, and tours couples and families to the villages.

By Liz Small

Contributing writer to LatinWorld.com

Please look before you leap.

After reviewing the many articles that are available on the Internet on the subject of relocating to Panama and discussing the subject with friends and neighbors, we (a handful of full time Panama expat residents) thought we would try to present a realistic view of the “Good, the Bad, and the Ugly” of this major life style decision.

The Good

Depending on your choice of location in Panama, you will find the beaches and the beautiful oceans close at hand.  They are typically warm but breezy, thoroughly refreshing, and relatively clean.  Speaking of water, that which is intended for consumption, is fresh, pure, and entirely drinkable.  There are areas, however, where thoughtless use of pesticides has resulted in the need for the installation of home purification systems.

If gardening is your thing (or even if your prefer to just supervise), you will find an amazing array of tropical flowers (with orchids being particularly hardy and with many varieties available) and trees to plant throughout the year – different things during the two seasons, the rainy and dry months.  The climate consists of these two periods, both lasting approximately 6 months.  The dry season (or summer) starts in late December, early January and ends in mid May.  The rainy season (or winter) gets going around mid May and lasts until mid to late December.  Typically, a day in the rainy season begins with the sun out and clear skies. Then in the early afternoon, there is rain for an hour or so, and then the sun reappears.  Temperatures throughout the year (again depending on location) only vary 10 degrees or so (75-85 degrees during the day), the dry season being the higher.  The climate encourages a particularly lush environment which, in turn, provides the perfect habitat for a host of colorful birds, native animals, and exotic looking – some say “beautiful” – insects!

We have all found these things (the proximity to great beaches and oceans, the ability to be surrounded by a vibrant landscape while enjoying the magnificent weather) have greatly contributed to an easy adjustment to life in Panama.  Helping as well are the great roads which lead to many interesting sites and cities, the moderate cost of living, and the ability to meet and enjoy the Panamanian people.

The Bad

Favorite pastimes (reading best sellers, knitting, gourmet cooking, chatting endlessly with family members on the phone, or even receiving letters) sometimes have to be finessed or eliminated altogether.  Bring a good supply of books in the language of your choice – unless it’s Spanish, then “no problemo” – and encourage guests to bring some along with them when they come for a visit.  Ditto any special hobby needs or exotic ingredients which may be in short supply or unavailable altogether!  Better get hooked up on Skype or some other communication modality and be email literate.  Calling internationally and receiving mail is pricey!

Before you buy a piece of ground to begin to have your dream house built, please take into consideration the following:  the “ mañana” factor!  Everything goes at a slower pace here and there is no sense of urgency.  If you have left your ability to be patient wherever you have moved from, please go back and get it.  If you were never a patient person to begin with, please think long and hard about building versus buying an existing spec house or resale.   Retrofitting an existing structure is much easier than building from scratch.  Ask folks who have “been there, done that” and you will soon discover the wisdom of this advice.  By the way, those folks you asked for advice, they are your new “family” so try to listen carefully to what they are telling you and profit from their experience.  After you have listened and actually followed what they have told you and saved yourself no end of pain and expense, not to mention aggravation, have them over for dinner as a way of saying “Thanks”!   They may become your new best friends!

The Ugly

Have you have started to think Panama is synonymous with Utopia?  There are a few challenges of which you must be aware.  Traffic in Panama City can be daunting.  The lack of street signs combined with the curious driving habits of the cab drivers can often result in a hair-raising experience.  Are you used to having everything available at all times and in close proximity?  Unless you choose to live in Panama City, you will not enjoy that luxury.  Many  items (produce and paper goods to name two) have to be imported and therefore will not always be on the grocery store shelf and will be a bit more expensive due to importing costs.  We have a saying in Panama: “If you see it and want it, buy it!”  It may not be there the next time you go looking.  Also, there is a suspicion that some manufacturers send goods they would not be able to market elsewhere to Panama.  Quality can be an elusive characteristic.

Bienvenidos a Panama!

front photo provided by ethantate at http://www.flickr.com/photos/ethantate/2750089356/

first photo provided by seracat at http://www.flickr.com/photos/mserarolsbcn/3370563337/

second photo provided by Alexander H.m: Cascone at http://www.flickr.com/photos/cascone/1295936293/