Over a million Americans travel abroad every year to seek medical treatment, most for elective procedures.  Latin America offers patients affordable elective and non-elective medical and dental procedures, usually at one third to half the cost of the same procedure in the United States or Europe.  As the name implies, medical tourism allows patients to combine medical treatment with a relaxing, tropical vacation south of the border; in fact, most medical tourism packages include excursions to nearby attractions and guided sight-seeing tours.

Because plastic surgery is so prevalent in Latin America (it’s estimated that up to 70% of middle and upper class women in some Latin American cities have had at least one cosmetic procedure), Central and South American plastic surgeons provide some of the most advanced and cutting edge surgical techniques in the field, usually in first class rate hospitals with better after-care than most U.S hospitals.

Medical tourism is booming in Argentina, Brazil, Colombia, Costa Rica, Panama and Mexico, perhaps with Brazil and Colombia among the world leaders in elective cosmetic procedures. In a a continent where so much importance is placed on beauty (particularly female beauty) Latin American surgeons have honed their skills and helped develop some of the most innovative surgical techniques in practice today. But plastic surgery isn’t the only thing boosting the medical tourism industry in Latin America; even those seeking non-elective procedures such as fertility treatment, joint surgery or organ transplants will likely find more affordable treatment options than at home.

Although Latin America is generally considered the third world, it boasts many excellent clinics, cosmetic centers, and hospitals.  However,  it’s important to make sure that the chosen hospital, clinic and doctor has international healthcare accreditation. The majority of doctors who participate in medical tourism packages were trained in the United States or Europe or at the top universities and clinics in their respective countries. Unless the patient is very familiar with the country of choice and the doctor who will be performing their procedure, it’s a smart idea to go through a Medical tourism company, which will arrange everything from the hospital, to lodging, meals, the operative doctor, aftercare and post-operative excursions.  Keep in mind  that although there are plenty of first rate medical facilities in Latin America, there are also an equal number of subpar facilities; going through a medical tourism company can help assure quality and satisfaction. Patients should also keep in mind that a tropical climate means that there may be infections and diseases not found in Europe and the United States and patients should obtain all required vaccinations before heading south.

One of the reasons that medical care is so much cheaper in Latin America than in the United States is because Latin American health care professionals earn about 20% of what American health care professionals earn and medical malpractice suits are rare and difficult to win. Although lower wages help keep medical costs down,  if something goes wrong during or after surgery, the chances of a patient successfully suing the hospital or doctor are slim to none, a factor individuals should keep in mind before deciding to seek medical treatment abroad.

Most importantly, it’s important to do research and contact several medical tourism companies to find one that’s right for you. Medical Nomad (www.medicalnomad.com) is a great source of information in the realm of world-wide medical tourism and allows users to find accredited providers and hospitals in Latin America. In addition, the website provides plenty links to medical tourism articles and information in various countries. Some popular agencies include: Healthbase (www.healthbase.com); Medretreat (www.medretreat.com); WorldMed Assist (www.worldmedassist.com); Planet Hospital (www.planethospital.com). Most of these agencies can help potential patients arrange cosmetic, dental, weight-loss and non-elective procedures.

Contributing writer to LatinWorld.com

Please look before you leap.

After reviewing the many articles that are available on the Internet on the subject of relocating to Panama and discussing the subject with friends and neighbors, we (a handful of full time Panama expat residents) thought we would try to present a realistic view of the “Good, the Bad, and the Ugly” of this major life style decision.

The Good

Depending on your choice of location in Panama, you will find the beaches and the beautiful oceans close at hand.  They are typically warm but breezy, thoroughly refreshing, and relatively clean.  Speaking of water, that which is intended for consumption, is fresh, pure, and entirely drinkable.  There are areas, however, where thoughtless use of pesticides has resulted in the need for the installation of home purification systems.

If gardening is your thing (or even if your prefer to just supervise), you will find an amazing array of tropical flowers (with orchids being particularly hardy and with many varieties available) and trees to plant throughout the year – different things during the two seasons, the rainy and dry months.  The climate consists of these two periods, both lasting approximately 6 months.  The dry season (or summer) starts in late December, early January and ends in mid May.  The rainy season (or winter) gets going around mid May and lasts until mid to late December.  Typically, a day in the rainy season begins with the sun out and clear skies. Then in the early afternoon, there is rain for an hour or so, and then the sun reappears.  Temperatures throughout the year (again depending on location) only vary 10 degrees or so (75-85 degrees during the day), the dry season being the higher.  The climate encourages a particularly lush environment which, in turn, provides the perfect habitat for a host of colorful birds, native animals, and exotic looking – some say “beautiful” – insects!

We have all found these things (the proximity to great beaches and oceans, the ability to be surrounded by a vibrant landscape while enjoying the magnificent weather) have greatly contributed to an easy adjustment to life in Panama.  Helping as well are the great roads which lead to many interesting sites and cities, the moderate cost of living, and the ability to meet and enjoy the Panamanian people.

The Bad

Favorite pastimes (reading best sellers, knitting, gourmet cooking, chatting endlessly with family members on the phone, or even receiving letters) sometimes have to be finessed or eliminated altogether.  Bring a good supply of books in the language of your choice – unless it’s Spanish, then “no problemo” – and encourage guests to bring some along with them when they come for a visit.  Ditto any special hobby needs or exotic ingredients which may be in short supply or unavailable altogether!  Better get hooked up on Skype or some other communication modality and be email literate.  Calling internationally and receiving mail is pricey!

Before you buy a piece of ground to begin to have your dream house built, please take into consideration the following:  the “ mañana” factor!  Everything goes at a slower pace here and there is no sense of urgency.  If you have left your ability to be patient wherever you have moved from, please go back and get it.  If you were never a patient person to begin with, please think long and hard about building versus buying an existing spec house or resale.   Retrofitting an existing structure is much easier than building from scratch.  Ask folks who have “been there, done that” and you will soon discover the wisdom of this advice.  By the way, those folks you asked for advice, they are your new “family” so try to listen carefully to what they are telling you and profit from their experience.  After you have listened and actually followed what they have told you and saved yourself no end of pain and expense, not to mention aggravation, have them over for dinner as a way of saying “Thanks”!   They may become your new best friends!

The Ugly

Have you have started to think Panama is synonymous with Utopia?  There are a few challenges of which you must be aware.  Traffic in Panama City can be daunting.  The lack of street signs combined with the curious driving habits of the cab drivers can often result in a hair-raising experience.  Are you used to having everything available at all times and in close proximity?  Unless you choose to live in Panama City, you will not enjoy that luxury.  Many  items (produce and paper goods to name two) have to be imported and therefore will not always be on the grocery store shelf and will be a bit more expensive due to importing costs.  We have a saying in Panama: “If you see it and want it, buy it!”  It may not be there the next time you go looking.  Also, there is a suspicion that some manufacturers send goods they would not be able to market elsewhere to Panama.  Quality can be an elusive characteristic.

Bienvenidos a Panama!

front photo provided by ethantate at http://www.flickr.com/photos/ethantate/2750089356/

first photo provided by seracat at http://www.flickr.com/photos/mserarolsbcn/3370563337/

second photo provided by Alexander H.m: Cascone at http://www.flickr.com/photos/cascone/1295936293/

Alvin Starkman M.A., LL.B.

We usually think of weddings and baptisms as rites of passage we attend on separate occasions. But November 27, 2008, marked the celebration of both in San Lorenzo Albarradas, Oaxaca: the nuptials of a couple in their early twenties, and the baptism of their three-year-old daughter. What resulted was a melding of highly organized custom characterized by extremes of indulging, giving, and all-out merriment.

San Lorenzo Albarradas (“San Lorenzo”) is a village with about 1,900 inhabitants of Zapotec ancestry, located 60 kilometers east of the city of Oaxaca, in southern Mexico. It’s accessed by a paved highway which, beyond the pre-Hispanic ruin of Mitla, winds as it ascends foothills of the Sierra Madre del Sur. San Lorenzo has the usual municipal building housing the office of its presidente municipal (mayor) and local police, a health clinic, school, marketplace, and of course Catholic church and cemetery. Residents engage in predominantly subsistence economic activity: cultivating corn, beans, squash, palm leaf and agave; tending sheep and goats; gathering firewood; and servicing the local population as well as tourist vans en route to and from San Isidro Roaguía (“San Isidro”). San Isidro, designated a marginal community by the federal government, is home to the bubbling springs and petrified waterfalls known as Hierve el Agua. San Lorenzo, San Isidro and environs are home to seven small, rudimentary yet wonderfully functional fábricas de mezcal (mezcal factories).

The marriage of Gladis and Eli and the baptism of their daughter Lexy were planned in early autumn. Santos and Lupita were selected as padrinos de la boda (godparents of the wedding), and long-time grade school friends Daniel and wife Alma as padrinos of the baptism.

If not through blood or marriage, then through compadrazgo (fictive kinship), most people are related one way or another in small Oaxacan towns and villages. On this occasion about a quarter of the residents were invited to partake in at least some of the festivities. Many have relations in nearby San Isidro. But as a result of a longstanding dispute between the villages regarding the right to exact a fee from tourists visiting Hierve el Agua, only recently resolved after years of Hatfield and McCoy antics, invitations were extended to only residents of San Lorenzo, apart from that extended to me and my wife Arlene.

As custom normally dictates, we arrive in town for the mass shortly after the designated 12-noon start time. Daniel and Alma, and Daniel’s parents Hilarino and Sara, had counseled that we would be expected to remain until the madrugada (middle of the night, generally until just before sunrise), and to thus be prepared. We really didn’t take the advice to heart. As once again custom normally dictates, we were just as clear that we would arrive fairly early on, with no guarantees regarding the duration of our visit.

We’d known Hilarino, Sara and family for about four years, initially as a result of purchasing mezcal from Hilarino’s roadside palenque (mezcal facility), and subsequently from eating and imbibing in Sara’s adjoining eatery. We’d broken bread in their home, and they in ours. We’d laughed and traded stories of differences in our respective cultures, and cried over the death of their forty-day-old grandson. They’d missed our 25^th anniversary, and we Daniel’s wedding. But for this occasion they required our assurance that our attendance at the festivities would not be pre-empted.

Booming bottle-rocket fireworks direct us to the standing-room-only church service. Guests cram the entranceway and sit under the shade around the courtyard. Dress ranges from Sunday best to workday usual. Gladis, Eli and Lexy emerge about a half hour after our arrival, shockingly early based upon our prior attendances at functions with a religious component. But perhaps ritual was rushed in anticipation of more important local custom to follow. In rural Oaxaca there is often not very much to rejoice, so when the opportunity arises, no expense is spared, figuratively and literally.

As rice showers the honored celebrants, and candies the rest of us, the six piece brass and percussion band begins with upbeat traditional song. I spot a familiar face, Santos the palenquero, competitor of Hilarino:

“Hilarino invite you? He’s my cousin you know.”

“And what about you and your wife?,” I ask.

“Lupita and I are the padrinos de la boda, so you have to come to our home with the procession. Hilarino’s coming too.”

I’ve yet to see Santos without his stiff, off-white cowboy hat, and this occasion is no different. Others wear the softer felt-like version in beiges, greys and blacks, many adorned with peacock feather. The groom, Eli, is dressed in a smartly tailored, very formal light olive suit with all the trimmings, while his bride is in a traditional white strapless gown with long train. Their daughter’s dress is equally appropriate, and yes, predictable. Several downtown Oaxaca retailers have found their niche marketing dresses for weddings, quince años (celebration when a girl turns 15, similar to the Bat Mitzvah in the Jewish faith), baptisms and confirmations. Clearly in San Lorenzo they go all out. In fact the young family, aside from being in this physical environment could have passed for urban Oaxacans of much greater means.

As the band, bride and groom leave the church grounds, Hilarino informs me that I’ll accompany him and others to Santos’ house, my wife Arlene will stay with the rest of his family at theirs, and we will reunite in a short while. Arlene and her group trail off. Close family members stop at the bride and groom’s residence to make final preparations for later festivities. Our procession walks about a mile further, to the padrinos’ home at the end of a meandering potholed roadway.

During 2005 – 2007, pavement of the main street through town was completed. However with few exceptions the rest of the roads are dirt, connected by narrow pathways. Land ownership is in the process of reform, with privatization on the way and promised for 2009. Homes range from extremely modest adobe construction with laminated metal roofing, to a number of large, contemporary-styled two storey clay brick and block abodes. Foundations are often made of locally mined limestone, known as cantera. The padrinos’ compound is somewhere in between, with a couple of buildings composed of brick and adobe, plastered and brightly painted, and a few outer structures for cattle, cooking and storage. The mezcal trade has been good to them.

Our arrival is greeted with fireworks. Without missing a beat the band takes its place aside a manger. About 15 of us are now inside a room with couches facing an altar where Gladis and Eli are kneeling. Additional seating is brought in, along with mezcal and then beer. I take both, as is now my custom, not unlike that of many others. I follow the lead of the elder to my right, pouring a few drops of mezcal on the floor, a sacrament in this village. I think back to the past 57 years of annually spilling ten drops of wine at Passover Seders, recalling the plagues heaped upon Moses’ people by Pharaoh. Chuckling ensues as I then knock over and spill Hilarino’s beer to my left. At first I decline a second beer, but after convincing I accept. After all, the bottle had already been opened for me. Where custom dictates, I rarely decline.

Beer and mezcal are the most typical alcoholic beverages served at rural celebrations in and around the central valleys of Oaxaca. Urbanites of the middle classes tend more towards tequila and scotch, usually Johnny Walker Red Label, simply referred to as whisky. But we all have our favorite mezcals, usually produced in small mom-and-pop operations peppering roadsides in specific regions of the state, usually much better than the commercial labels.

The presidente municipal, Hilarino’s brother, mistakes me for a priest acquaintance of his … a Spanish guëro (white person) with moustache and grey hair. “Not even close,” I answer to laughter. A couple of children begin rhyming off numbers in English. I inform that Arlene gives private English lessons. The ears of each in attendance perk up, since while learning English is valued, aside from very limited instruction in the local school there is no one to teach:

“I’ll make you a deal, Mr. Mayor,” I say. “Once privatization arrives, you find me a small plot of land or very modest home for Arlene and me to buy so we can spend the odd weekend in San Lorenzo, and I’ll make sure she gives free lessons to the kids.”

More chortling, and of course the obligatory “salud!” as we toast the idea.

Someone spots a bull seemingly charging towards the house, having broken loose from its tie. “No es bravo,” we’re assured, so we re-take our seats and continue with levity and further small talk.

After the better part of an hour, following the lead of Santos and the newlyweds we move outside to the covered dining area, taking our seats on benches accommodating about 20 of us. The band continues. More family has arrived and is milling about along with those involved in meal preparation. A large bowl of traditional hot chocolate is placed before each of us, together with two loaves of bread, one small and the other the size of a regular unsliced rye. This is pan de yema, a type of egg bread, similar to challah, the bread that accompanies many Jewish celebrations and Friday night dinner.

Pan de yema is a Oaxacan tradition, served at many rite of passage fiestas as well as for yearly celebrations such as Day of The Dead, when it’s known as Pan de Muertos. Many villages are known for the distinctiveness of their bread, some baked with cinnamon, others anise, and so on. Hot chocolate, a customary beverage in the state, is almost always accompanied by the challah-like bread. Oaxaca is known for its chocolate, made in small mills in virtually all towns and villages. Oaxacan chocolate is made from toasted cacao beans, sugar, usually a bit of cinnamon stick, and at times a small quantity of almonds. Many Oaxacans have their own recipes of stipulated percentages of ingredients, and so instruct the mill operator. Witnessing the simplicity of production is fascinating, and as a non-native Oaxacan, having one’s own chocolate made, even more so.

Barbacoa de chivo (goat, baked the traditional way in an in-ground oven) in a broth with vegetables arrives in deep ceramic soup bowls, along with tortillas and platesful of chopped onion, cilantro, cabbage, fresh chili and radish. “The radish will give you twice as much stamina,” I’m assured, to the amusement of all. More mezcal follows, this time pursuant to statewide custom because of its tendency to cut the grease of barbacoa, whether goat, sheep or beef.

Raw chopped vegetables and greens are traditionally served alongside barbacoa, enabling you to control level of spice and type of flavor, on your own. Another typical Oaxacan dish, pozole, is similarly served with accompaniments on the side, in this case including small dishes of chopped dried oregano and chili powder.

While we’re seated a teenage girl distributes clear plastic bags for carrying home the leftover bread. Some have eaten not a bite, while others have broken off chunks to use as dippers in the chocolate. None, however, comes close to putting a dent in all that has been given. We get up, and the next shift, including band members, takes its turn.

“Who decides who gets to eat first?,” I inquire, needing to know that I did not take someone else’s place. Hilarino enlightens:

“Everyone knows. That’s just the way it is. Those who stay sitting down near the band are aware that their turn will come later on, and that we eat before them.”

I am anxious to compare notes with Arlene about our respective comidas, so Hilarino agrees to drive us back to his house in an old pick-up. Arlene was sitting with eight women and children in a tiny dark living-room jam-packed with sofas and an entertainment unit crammed with electronic equipment … eating peanuts, drinking tequila, and watching Bambi II … for the second time. All unfolds while Alma, whose infant had died some eight months earlier, watches her 40-something-year-old mother nursing her own newborn.

Arlene whispers: “I’m starving. They didn’t feed us anything except this. It’s already three o’clock. We’re supposed to be waiting for the procession to arrive, and then we’ll all be going to the fiesta for comida.”

“Well I’m stuffed, and the barbacoa was great,” I respond, to her mild disgust.

“Have some of this bread. It was great with the hot chocolate,” I continue to tease.

We wait, and we wait, until I get bored with Bambi. To pass the time I go out to son Daniel’s adjoining pool hall to play snooker with him and a couple of friends:

“I just opened the place a couple of months ago. There’s nothing in town for kids to do at night except drink and have sex, so I figured that with a pool table, card games and dominos, and pizza and other snacks, it would be a winner.”

I would later learn to better appreciate Daniel’s motivation.

At long last fireworks resume, signaling that the procession is once again departing. We hear the band starting up far off in the distance. The procession has finally begun to retrace its tracks, heading back to the couple’s homestead, its outer fence now draped with white ribbon and floral bouquets. Earlier in the day we had noted two other homes duly decorated with white banners and streamers. We had been told that those residences were to be the focus of later festivities, but uncertain as to when and why.

We walk to the newlyweds’ home to await their arrival. The fiesta will take place in an open, dirt floor courtyard facing the village’s main street. Tables are set, adorned with flower arrangements. Smoke billows from the two, rudimentary in-ground ovens. Women are busy coming and going to and from two close-by buildings sheltering food and storing stacks of ceramic dishes and pails of plastic spoons. I spot another palenquero I’ve known for a few years, already mildly inebriated, sitting at a table holding court with his friends. But familiarity breeds comfort, so we join them, and there we continue to drink, more beer and more mezcal. At this household the latter is not of particularly good quality, so after downing a small plastic cupful I stick to seconds of the former. “How do you know the gringos?,” I overhear. I pipe up with the answer, correcting that we’re Canadian.

In Oaxaca most use the word “gringo” in a non-derogatory way when referring to or addressing Americans, yet are usually sensitive to its common connotation. While always setting the record straight, I make it clear that I know that no offence is intended and none is taken, and that I simply want all to be aware that we’re Canadians, and not gringos.

The procession arrives just as I’m finishing another hot chocolate (Arlene, her first), and contemplating what to do with four additional loaves of bread, two for each of us. This time all are super-sized. Once again I hear the ripping off the roll of plastic bags.

But the band and revelers pass right by the house. We hurriedly join in, stopping a block down the road to bring back baptismal godparents Daniel and Alma and everyone else still at their home. By now the pyrotechnics have become continuous and the music is at a feverous pitch. Some 50 well-wishers arrive back at the party. Slowly another 100 or so arrive and seat themselves. A rose bush is placed on each table, two on ours pursuant to the instruction of Sara: “You’ll take this one, so don’t forget. I’ll take the other, and someone else can take home the centerpiece.”

Hot chocolate No. Three is placed before me, along with two more loaves and a bag. And then more beer, followed by mezcal yet again, foreshadowing another heavy comida for me, and the first, at long last, for Arlene.

Mezcal in the pueblos is served from either a multi-liter plastic gasoline container (purchased new for selling and transporting the spirit), or a 2.5 liter plastic coke bottle. Purists, upon arriving home after purchasing in such receptacles immediately transfer their liquor into glass, the fear being that leaving it in plastic may taint the subtle nuances.

Barbacoa de res (beef) arrives, similar in presentation and with the same cut-up legumes and leafy herb as I had enjoyed only three hours earlier. But it’s not often one gets to indulge in such proportion. The band continues, the number of musicians somehow having grown to 10.

Bands are an extremely important part of Oaxacan society, cultures and the multitude of micro sub-cultures. Musicians are highly respected because of not only their training and talent, but because of what they offer the community: familiar tunes; an opportunity to dance ranchera, cumbia, danzon and the pinotepa; and more generally a medium for advancing the celebration.

Towards the end of the comida, Tupperware-style containers are distributed to everyone, marked “Recuerdo de nuestra boda, E y G, 27/11/08” (Souvenir of our wedding, etc.). In goes the leftover beef and broth. We decline to take home tortillas. We’re then showered with an array of gifts commemorating the baptism, each personalized with particulars of the event: a wooden basket containing suckers and other assorted sweets, adorned with pink ribbon and a small pink baby doll; a plastic bowl; a frilly, pink cotton doll blanket; children’s birthday loot bags. Everyone packs up his bounty. I walk back to our vehicle to stow away umpteen bags and containers, as well as the rose bush. I return with our wedding gift, placing it in a designated room.

Very few gifts at rural Oaxacan functions arrive in a wrapped box or gift bag with card affixed. Instead they are fashioned so that all in attendance will know who is giving what. The present, be it a set of dishes or mugs, a blender, clothing, linens or even a lamp, is taped or glued to a piece of decorated particle board, then shrink wrapped with cellophane. The gift can then be proudly paraded in front of everyone as it’s put in its proper place. Hence, often guests do not even include a card. Of course this makes it difficult for the recipient to know who gave what, unless he or she has a keen memory. But there are no worries, since thank you’s are not the norm, and sending a note of appreciation is unheard of.

Tables are quickly cleared. When they’re then folded, it signals that guests had better stand up. At the same time an 11-tier wedding cake is being assembled, along with a somewhat more modest cake in honor of the baptism. At first the taking down and setting up all seems rather incongruous, but only until the band takes to the street and guests follow behind, once again signaled by the commencement of fireworks.

By now it’s nightfall. We’re clearly a spectacle as we march through the town’s main thoroughfare, picking up more celebrants as we proceed, turning onto a dark dirt road, and then into an alleyway, followed by a right, continuing up a steep dusty gradient, and finally some 20 minutes later arriving at the home of the bride’s godparents from her own baptism. Tradition dictates that on the occasion of her wedding, they present her and the

groom, in the presence of the throngs, with a large wooden wardrobe. But not before prayer and advice. All the while the band’s tempo picks up and dancing begins on a large makeshift patio.

“Don’t you remember me?,” I’m asked by a young girl toting a four-year-old. “I used to work for Sara in the comedor, but now I can’t because I have to take my son to school every day. I’m already 21. It’s been a while, hasn’t it?” She appears closer to 16, slight, short and moderately attractive, clearly pretty enough to attract the attention of a local suitor. “I live with my parents and sister.”

The bride, groom, her godparents and other honored guests emerge from the well-wishing, together with four men holding up the white ribbon adorned wardrobe, and yes, dancing with it. We’re showered with candies. More beer. I accept, only reluctantly since it’s getting late and the thought of the drive back to Oaxaca begins to weigh on my mind. Next time perhaps I’ll opt for the bottled fruit drink being offered. If it’s good enough for young mothers to feed their infant children, then maybe it’s okay for me.

An older man passes out unfiltered cigarettes, in singles, from a plate: “It’s a tradition, so take one.” I comply, and get a light. More mezcal, this time much smoother. I decide that soft drinks can wait until a little later. The band continues, as do the four friends dancing with the closet. It looks heavy to me, but they persevere for perhaps 15 minutes. The merriment builds. Bags of goodies are distributed to the extraordinary number of young children, most supervised by teenaged moms.

The band leaves its designated playing area, and begins to trace its steps. The wardrobe follows, along with the rest of us. We stop at the bottom of a hill for more deliberate and formal dancing. Then at the residence of the bride’s godparents of her confirmation, tradition once again prevails: more drink, more candies, more cigarettes (this time filtered), and more milling about, but this time in a large, poured concrete floor courtyard of a relatively lavish looking home. And of course dance. These hosts are required to present the couple with a metate, the large grinding stone used for hand-milling corn for tortillas and tamales.

The metate remains a common and highly appreciated gift for special occasions, at least in towns and villages. It’s usually painted with brightly colored flowers along the sides, with a dedication such as “Souvenir of my wedding” followed by the year, or other wording appropriate to the occasion. At all weekly town marketplaces there’s at least one metate vendor, and at the large Abastos Market in downtown Oaxaca there are several metate stalls. Metates were traditionally as important to a Oaxacan family as a car for most Americans and Canadians today. Even though blenders are now a more common wedding gift, the tradition of gifting a metate in this and other villages remains well entrenched. And why not … its use probably dates back some 3,000 years, albeit in simpler form.

A man is dancing with the 135-pound metate strung across his back. A woman is parading a large galvanized aluminum wash basin, another gift. Someone else is entrusted with carrying a huge clay cooking vessel with a petate (palm leaf mat) rolled up inside. About 40 others are dancing, accompanying those who are presenting these additional gifts.

Now more under the influence than before, our third palenquero acquaintance takes me over to his wife for a chat. His daughter is also present, clutching her infant son.

“Our son’s getting married December 29, and we want you to come, so I’m going to give you a special invitation the next time you’re at my palenque.”

It’s common for people to give last-minute or unexpected invitations to rite of passage celebrations in both rural and urban Oaxaca, even, perhaps surprisingly, for the middle classes. Especially in the villages, extra tables are set up if necessary to accommodate additional guests, and there’s always an abundance of food and drink on hand. It’s a custom with which most North Americans are not familiar, and when confronted with such an 11^th hour offer or request to attend, we usually feel insulted or at minimum a little uncomfortable. But the intention is generally to honor and show respect and friendship.

We are now back on the street, once again with music, dance, fireworks, and upwards of 300 in the procession, having picked up invitees from the last two stops, and undoubtedly others along the way. The furniture-foursome continues, joined by metate-man and others, strolling with the most recent gifts.

We finally arrive back at the party site. The band repositions itself off to a corner. But now, with the last of the endowments having arrived, it’s time to take notice of the riches being heaped upon Gladis, Eli and Lexy. All presents are brought out, and each is given to a different person, to rejoice and dance with above the head. A spectacle of potlatch proportion ensues, with baskets, dishes, small appliances and every other class of gift hoisted to the starlit sky and spun around as the band plays on. Those not directly participating clap in unison.

Many are in the street, oblivious to the odd passing vehicle. Children are playing, men and women imbibing. A municipal police pick-up stops out front. The mayor goes over for a chat. All is under control.

Oaxacans returning from the United States to their rural Mexican roots, in the course of expressing their reasons for coming back home, frequently comment about the excessive regulation and control exercised by the American government over its residents:

“Why shouldn’t I be able to have a beer in the street out in front of my home as long as I’m not drunk?”

“Why can’t I keep the music turned up until midnight if I have a party only once a year?”

“If I can’t afford to keep my car’s catalytic converter functioning well, it’s not fair to pull my vehicle off the road.”

The bride and groom are getting more advice, and providing all assurances that they will be faithful and remain together, be good Catholics and lead forthright honest lives, always supporting one another. A conjunto, the more contemporary musical group with amplifiers, electric guitars, singer and MC, is setting up just as the band packs up. It’s after 9 pm. Chatter continues, now about the upcoming waltz, la culebra (snake dance), toast, and other traditions. Many comment that they’re ready for dessert. Dancing with a live turkey is not a custom in this village as it is in many others.

A young girl approaches, yet another former employee of our friend Sara of roadside eatery fame. She’s 20, with a two-year-old. But she’s holding her 15-year-old sister’s three-month-old. Her sister also has a two-year-old:

“So she had her first at thirteen?”

“Yes, I guess that’s right.”

“Do you have a boyfriend?”

“No, I don’t like boys, and I don’t think they like me now.”

“My parents are very strict. They never want us going out with boys, so we have to sneak around.”

“But don’t you see how it hasn’t worked? Look at your sister now.”

She looks confused. She doesn’t get it. In a flash the wisdom of Daniel’s one room billiard parlor strikes home. Giving young people something to do might just have an impact on the youth of his village.

There are class distinctions in the village of San Lorenzo Albarradas. But fiestas seem to transcend economic distinctions in terms of the guest list, at least for the middle and lower classes. Those with barely a skill set are noteworthy: the youngsters getting pregnant at 13, working for Sara for perhaps $6 – $8 a day, appearing to be going nowhere, and barely subsisting. Then there are Hilarino and Sara, and Santos and Lupita, with drive and motivation. Their children, while having families when relatively young as compared to current North American trend, aspire to be in long-term monogamous relationships, learn trades and attend higher education. They aim towards a future, while others seem to not. It’s perhaps never even entered the realm of their worldview.

But neither San Lorenzo nor San Isidro has a school beyond junior high. There is no preparatoria (high school) in the area. The closest are in the towns of Mitla and Tlacolula. It costs approximately $20 a week to get there and back by public transit, money that most don’t have. And if a family does send a son or daughter to high school, apart from the cost of doing so, there’s one less income earner in the household.

Arlene is whisked away to the waltz, forming a ring with young women and female children, arm in arm, while Gladis and Eli begin to dance. They hadn’t taken dance lessons. The circle moves ever so slowly to the right. Arlene catches on pretty quickly. The MC begins to call out names of guests to be honored by being invited to dance with bride or groom. Every other surname called out is Martínez.

A half hour goes by, with more drink, talk and laughter. Daniel asks me to participate in the long awaited snake dance. He instructs me to remove my glasses. I initially decline, but then recall from prior experience what it entails, so off they come. The bride and groom each stand on a chair about three yards apart, Eli holding onto the end of Gladis’ train. I and four other men grab onto the bride’s chair, holding it firmly, while another group does likewise with the groom’s. Women begin circling around the main attraction in the center, bumping into us and trying to topple us over, and consequently the bride and groom from their chairs. As the pace of the music picks up, likewise the movement of the snake … the women circling. So does the fervor in trying to knock us over. It’s a draw. Next the men do the same, but the bumps and grinds are more deliberate and severe. We are firm in our resolve to protect Gladis by ensuring that our feet remain firmly planted on the ground and our hands are not dislodged from her chair. Those hanging onto Eli are similarly steadfast. The second snake slithers away as the music dissipates, both newlyweds still standing.

By now, Hilarino and Sara have left for home to put their other son, a two-year-old, to bed. The village’s main street remains alive with drinking, coming and going, and of course sporadic bottle rockets going off. The conjunto is now playing in full swing as the next ritual unfolds. The groom, suit jacket removed, is being ushered around the courtyard by Daniel, so as to enable guests to write a congratulatory note on the back of his shirt, and then affix a peso bill to it with a safety pin. At the other end, Alma is similarly assisting Gladis. Gladis is approaching guests with a crystal slipper, inviting each to fill it with coins or bills. Alma, trailing, periodically empties the slipper’s contents into a decorative wooden box.

The expense involved in throwing a wedding in Oaxaca can be significant, and while most cannot afford much of the pomp and ceremony involved, they nevertheless pull it off. It’s tradition. There’s a saying that most people in Oaxaca have two jobs, one to meet their normal day to day expenses, and the other to fulfill their social obligations. Asking for direct contributions assists in defraying the cost. Honoring specific friends and relatives by asking them to be godparents of a particular aspect of the function further reduces the outlay; godparents of the music, the cake, the wedding rings, and so on.

It’s now 10:30, and it’s a long drive home over dark winding roads. Gladis and Eli continue to solicit contributions. Cider has been distributed in small plastic cups in anticipation of the toast, but no one knows when it will occur. And still to come are the cutting of the cake, the bride or groom having his or her face smashed into it, and other longstanding traditions, not to mention dancing to familiar song … sure to continue throughout the night.

To a person, our friends and acquaintances are shocked at our “premature” departure, Daniel ready to burst into tears, Alma pouting. Weeks earlier we had indeed spoken about spending the night and sleeping over, but not without qualification. I do a quick calculation of the number of drinks I have had over the past 10 ½ hours, to assure myself, and Arlene, that we’ll be safe for the drive home. I had been conscious of my intake all day and evening long, for that very reason.

A week later I see Alma at her mother-in-law’s comedor. She is clearly still disappointed, as well as angry. Many partied until six in the morning. Others closer to our age called it a night at about two or three. But there’s always an opportunity for us to redeem ourselves, perhaps at the next wedding in a month’s time, now that we are much better acquainted with the customs and traditions of San Lorenzo Albarradas.

Alvin Starkman has a masters in social anthropology from York University and a law degree from Osgoode Hall Law School. From 1986 to 2004 he was a Toronto litigator specializing in family law. Alvin now resides in Oaxaca where he runs a small bed and breakfast, Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast (http://www.oaxacadream.com), writes about life and cultural traditions in the central valleys of Oaxaca, and leads personalized tours to the ruins, craft villages, market towns and other sights.

front photo provided by vb_lady at http://www.flickr.com/photos/victoriaandchad/2823609404/

photo 1 provided by sauloruiz at http://www.flickr.com/photos/elsaulo/2735823677/

photo 2 provided by llhuicamina at http://www.flickr.com/photos/ilhuicamina/2561974398/

photo 3 provided by waywuwie at http://www.flickr.com/photos/waywuwei/123397519/

photo 4 provided by HD CMI at http://www.flickr.com/photos/moctezumah/2476929053/

photo 5 provided by edwinguerra at http://www.flickr.com/photos/edwinguerra/43871767/

photo 6 provided by horash perzabal at http://www.flickr.com/photos/el_horash/3010697795/

photo 7 provided by llhuicamina at http://www.flickr.com/photos/ilhuicamina/342228710

I miss my pup.  He’s up in the states chasing squirrels like an idiot, a relentless pursuit that will probably never bear fruit.  Pets – be it dogs, cats, hamsters, ferrets, and the like – are practically members of the family in the U.S. and Canada.  Leaving one behind is a very tough thing to do; thus, when considering moving to Latin America, a major question is “Can my dog/cat/etc come too?”  The answer is yes.  And depending on the country, the process is quite easy.

Mexico: With hundreds of thousands of visitors from the U.S. and around a million expats and retirees living in the country, Mexico is pretty straightforward in allowing pets across the border.

For dogs the main concern, of course, is rabies.  PROOF OF A RECENT RABIES VACCINATION IS THE MOST IMPORTANT DOCUMENT YOU CAN BRING!  Do not even attempt to bring Sparky into Mexico without one.  Fortunately, they are easy to obtain anywhere in the U.S.  This vaccination must be done at least 30 days before entry into Mexico but cannot be older than 1 year.  For dogs under 4 months, the animal must be kept at the owner’s residence in Mexico until it is old enough to get a rabies vaccination.  Cats and other animals do not need proof of rabies vaccinations.

Also, for all dogs its necessary to get a Certificate of Good Health from your vet.  This just says that, well, your pet is healthy, free of any contagious diseases.

With cats the process is a bit easier.  All that is needed is a Certificate of Good Health, obtained at any vet’s office in the U.S.  At the border your cat will be inspected, and if it is deemed that the animal is unhealthy, you will have to pay for kitty to be treated by a vet in Mexico.  But if the cat is healthy, then there are no problems.

Birds are a bit more of a hassle.  Some species are restricted by either the Mexican government for importing or the U.S. government for exporting.  You may even have to quarantine your bird at one of the U.S. Animal and Health Inspection Service’s center before going to Mexico.  It’s best to get in touch with them before planning to take your bird southward.  http://www.aphis.usda.gov/

Other animals, such as hamsters, rabbits, ferrets, and other furry critters are allowed into Mexico without much fuss as long as they are in good health.  Reptiles and amphibians, however, have restrictions depending on the species; check with http://www.aphis.usda.gov/ for specific information.

Costa Rica: The regulations for bringing pets in is similar to Mexico’s, with a few differences.

Both dogs and cats need proof of a rabies vaccination performed at least 30 days prior to entering Costa Rica, but no more than 1 year old.  Failure to have this document will result in a lengthy quarantine and many headaches.  They will also need the Certificate of Good Health form saying they are carrying no communicable diseases.

Birds are now allowed into Costa Rica; however, you are not allowed to take them out if you decide to leave.  So make sure the move is what you want if you plan on bringing a bird along.

Other pets such as small mammals and reptiles also require the Certificate of Good Health.  Some species may be restricted, so it is good to check with http://www.aphis.usda.gov/ first.

Panamà: Compared to Panamà, getting an animal into Mexico or Costa Rica is a breeze.  Panamà has more paperwork, more procedures, more headache – but don’t panic, LW is here to help.

For dogs and cats the usual forms – Certificate of Good Health and rabies vaccination – are the first thing you should get done in the U.S.  They are the same as the ones in Mex and Costa Rica and have the same time restrictions.  Additionally, you need to mail a $30 money order to the Consulate General of Panamà.  And, most annoyingly, you need to send a Quarentine For Domestic Animals form to the Minister of Health in Panama.  This must be done at least 3 days before the animal’s arrival.

Now here’s the tricky part.  Your cat or dog MUST be checked by a Panamanian vet at the Tocumen airport in Panama City, and the vet must be government-authorized.  Easy, right?  Well yes, except the vets only work from 9am to 3pm and from 7pm to 10pm Monday through Friday.  If your plane lands after hours or on the weekend, you either have to keep your pet at the airport until the vets go back to work or arrange for a government vet to meet your plane.  You can arrange this with the Ministry of Health, but will have to pay extra.

Birds and reptiles are a real pain to get into Panamà, but not impossible.  The first document you need is an import permit, which you get from the National Environmental Authority (ANAM).  Next, your bird needs to be vaccinated before arriving in Panamà for the following diseases: New Castle, Tuberculosis, Avian Influenza,  Chlamydia, and Salmonella.  Proof of these vaccinations must be included in the Certificate of Good Health.  Also, the Certificate of Good Health and the import permit must be certified by the Consulate in Panama before your bird arrives.

With such strict deadlines and procedures, it may not be a bad idea getting the help of an attorney in Panamà to assist you in bringing an animal in, especially if its a bird, reptile, or other kind of exotic pet.

Brazil: The land of samba welcomes pets; just make sure the paperwork is in order.

For dogs and cats the first thing you need is the rabies vaccination, which follows the same guidelines as the other countries: no less than 30 days and no more than 1 year since the vaccination.  Second is the ubiquitous Certificate of Good Health, obtained in the U.S.   However, with Brazil, this certificate needs to be authorized in the U.S. by an APHIS office.  Check their website http://www.aphis.usda.gov/ for an office near you and make an appointment (walk-ins aren’t allowed).  The APHIS signature costs $24.  After this step, take the certificate to a Brazilian Consulate in the U.S: for further authorization, which will require a money order of $20.

After all of the authorizations are complete, your pet is ready to go.  You only need two documents: the original rabies vaccination and the double-authorized Certificate of Good Health.

For all other animals an import permit is required, which must be obtained before the animal arrives in Brazil.  This form is obtained from the Ministry of Agriculture (Ministério da Agricultura, Pecuária e Abastecimento).

No quarantine facilities exist for pets at Brazilian airports.  If there are problems with the paperwork, the pet, be it a dog, cat, or iguana, will be sent back to the U.S. at the owner’s expense or destroyed!!

Do you have additional info on pet travel?  Hints or tips?  Success or horror stories?  We want to hear from you!

If you are looking to move down south, you can find Latin America real estate by clicking on the link.

photo provided by jorgenjuul at http://www.flickr.com/photos/jorgenjuul/309794248/

photo provided by cocolimemonkey at http://www.flickr.com/photos/locachica/2926141774/

Click here for Round 1: Retirement Benefits

Click here for Round 2: Climate

Click here for Round 3: People and Culture

Round 4: Things to do

If you are going to pack up (or sell) everything and move to Central America, you might as well go somewhere where there is stuff to do; after all, you can only sit on the porch and drink so many margaritas before it becomes mundane (or does it…).  In this matchup, the cultural and outdoor activities of each country are looked at and a winner decided.  Round four, begin!

Note: While sitting on the beach all day is fun, it can be done in both countries with equal laziness. Thus, beachbumming does not count as an activity.

Costa Rica

Expats, retirees, and tourists wouldn’t have been flocking to CR for two decades if all there was to do was sit on the beach all day.  For a tiny country, Costa Rica boasts a huge array of attractions that can keep the average gringo busy for months, if not years.  Here are a few top picks, both in outdoor activities and cultural discoveries.

Into the wild:

1. Arenal volcano- Yeah, its been exploited more than Macauley Caulkin, but Arenal still is one of Costa Rica’s most impressive, and easily accessible, natural attraction.  Not only does lava commonly spurt from the top, but the surrounding area is popular for hiking, fishing, and canopy tours.

2. White water rafting- This is some intense stuff. The #1 river to raft is the Pacuare River, which not only offers a rush of adrenaline but also a chance to see virgin rainforest up close, without the mosquito bites.

3. Parque Corcovado.  It would be a sin to leave out Corcovado from any list.  This is the absolute best place in Central America to immerse oneself in the rainforest without going “Man vs Wild” Bear Grylls-style.  Far enough from the tourist trail but still within civilization, the park offers unparalleled access to plants and animals in their natural habitat.  And the hiking isn’t all that difficult.

Whats a Tico, anyway?

1. San Jose museums and opera house- not many travellers or expats spend much time in the capital, but the gold and jade museums, along with the Belgian/Italian designed opera house, are worth checking out to get some background on Costa Rica’s long history.

2. Grana de oro- Coffee is big time in CR, and even non-fans of the stuff (like me) will find the coffee regions intrguing.  The process, the climate, the scenery, plus the opportunity to taste and buy some of the “gold grain”

3. Craft shopping- Even the guys out there will enjoy this, as every manpad (or dining room…) should have at least one piece of badass foreign art that you can tell your friends about.  Despite not having a gloried pre-Colombian past, the country boasts some excellent handmade crafts, from pottery and dolls to colorful oxcarts, that are available for a fraction of what you would pay for them in North America.

While it can sometimes feel like you are being led around by the hand by tour guides and its often hard to go five minutes without seeing a fellow gringo, Costa Rica has a ton of activitis to offer, too many to list here.  The infrastructure is top notch, making even the novice traveler or expat feel comfortable.

Panama

In a country that is still being discovered by gringos, Panama has some really cool stuff for the expat, retiree, and tourist alike.

Into the wild:

1. Wildlife viewing- Rainforests and cloudforests dominate Panama, so there is no lack of opportunity to get out and see some nature.  The famed Pipeline Road is close to the capital in the Soberania Park and is great for birdwatching, and the Baru National Park in Chiriqui is well known for its Quetzal birds.

2. Tree canopy adventures- scattered in forests throughout the country, these “rides” consist of a person being harnessed and attached to a zipline, then literally flying around the forest canopy from one platform to another.  Really cool, safe, and a total adrenaline rush.

3. Diving and snokeling- Get off the beach and into the water.  Around Portobello, Isla Grande has well-established dive programs and Bocas del Toro offers some untouched diving spots.

The canal and more

1. Panama Canal- Every tourist, expat, and retiree should see the canal in action at least once.  Not only is it really a remarkable feat of engineering, but also a big part of each Panamanian; a true source of pride.  If possible, book a trip from the Pacific to the Caribbean or vice-versa.

2. Portobello- Steeped in history, this Caribbean town was once one of the most important cities in the Western hemisphere.  Some of the most famous pirates fought brutal campaigns in and around the town, and the ruins are quite amazing and the tourist infrastrure well set up.

3. Go native- Panama boasts some pretty unique and accessible indigenous tribes, each one being different in some way, beit customs or language.  The Embera people mainly inhabit the dangerous Darien forest along the border with Colombia, but a few communities have made their way to the Chagres River by the canal area and welcome visitors daily.  Along the Caribbean coast, the Kuna people make their home among the 400 islands of San Blas, so visitors are treated to an incredible setting as well as indigenous customs.

Round 4 winner: Costa Rica. This was a close one, but Costa Rica’s far superior infrasture gives it the edge.  While this might not appeal to everyone, CR is just more accessable than Panama; however, given the right oversight Panama could easily equal, or even surpass, Costa Rica in terms of cool things to do. And man, Corcovado just plain rocks. Score: Costa Rica: 2, Panama: 1, 1 tie

Voice your opinion below.  Agree, disagree, or have additional info thats been left out?  We want to hear from you…

Figueroa: First of all, the impact in Panama of the whole international crisis has not been felt as it should be compared to the neighboring countries, never mind the United States and European countries that are really feeling the stress of the economic situation.  And there are several factors for this.  First of all, Panama has a very sound and solid banking system.  None of our banks failed during this crisis.  The only bank that failed was Stanford bank, and that was because it is based in the United States.  This is important to know, because we do have a very solid market in Panama.  In addition to that, we are undertaking the expansion of the canal, a project that has and will continue on schedule.  So the demand for jobs and the demand for services with that project will maintain the economic growth at a faster pace than normally.  And that expansion project, by the way, is larger than the original canal project from 1904-1914.  So the expansion project is larger than the original canal, as far as movement of land.

LW: I remember being in Panama, and it was definitely a very exciting time.  Just how many jobs the expansion was going to create, and then once, of course, its finished the real boom to the economy the canal will bring.  It really couldn’t have come at a better time because it is a kind of safeguard in this economic crisis, with all the jobs created as a direct result of the expansion and as a byproduct.

Figueroa: In addition to that, its very important that we have the Martinelli factor in place.  Ricardo Martinelli is a businessman, he is business oriented, and he has been very successful in his career. Last year he invoiced around 450 million with the Super 99 supermarket chain.  He has a vision, a different vision than most presidents.  Normally we have had a lot of corruption, which is rampant in Latin America, but Martinelli said “No, we aren’t going to steal any money, we are going to work and make government efficient.”  Now, if Martinelli is successful, and I believe he will be, in making government efficient, then panama has an opening to be the first economy in the world.  Panama is a very small country, we came out of the ocean 3 mill years ago, united the two continents.  This made an ecological wonder.  We have more bird species than any other country in the world.  We have more bird species than North America and Europe combined.  We have 177 World records in deep sea fishing, so if yo want to go fishing, you don’t go to Miami, you don’t go to Mexico, Jamaica, or the Bahamas, you go to Panama.  This is where the big fish are.

For the 6th consecutive year Panama has won the World Coffee Championship in Charlotte, NC, which makes Panamanian coffee #1 in the world. Most people think the best coffee comes from Brazil or Costa Rica, but it comes from Panama.  One of the most important assets that Panama has, and people do not look at this as important now but they will in the future, is water.  Panama has a lot of water.

The country that controls the water of the world will be the new world leaders, and Panama is a sponge of water.  We have a very fertile jungle.

I remember a few weeks back i was walking on the causeway and there were some American tourists walking and they were holding a bottle of Evian.  I asked them why there were drinking Evian in Panama.  After all, Evian spelled backwards is naive.  They paid $6 for the bottle at the hotel.  Of course, the hotel didn’t tell them that the tap water in Panama is just as good or better than Evian.

Panama has the largest merchant fleet in the world.  More ships have Panamanians flags than any other.  Panama has the second largest free trade zone, behind Hong Kong, so we have a lot of progress going in our favor.  Martinelli intends to build more highways that will revolutionize this country, the way the U.S. changed during the Eisenhower administration in the 1950s and the construction of the interstate highway system.  By construction highways in Panama, including the Caribbean coast, running from the Kuna indigenous islands of San Blas to the Costa Rican boarder, that whole area of the Caribbean, which is virgin, will be exploding with tourism and commerce.

We mention in our government plan that we are going to build 5 more international airports.  That may seem very exotic to some people, but the Dominican Republic, which is smaller and much poorer than Panama, has 7 international airports.  So building 5 additional airports in Panama is not something that is out of whack.  So by building the airports and highways, as well as developing the ports – last December Panama became the Latin American home port of the U.S. cruise industry.  So cruise ships originate and terminate in Panama.  That brings in additional tourists that were not there before.  We intend to go forth and knock on the doors of all the major cruise lines – Norwegian, Carnival – to bring this business to Panama.

Panama has only 3 million inhabitants.  So, per square mile we have a lot of land. So to grow we need to stop thinking Lilliputian.  We have to think big.  The problem with many of the Panamanian governments before is that they were thinking small.  Two lanes? No, you need to do six lanes!  This is Martinelli’s view of panama.

Now when my customers come to Panama i tell them to take a window seat on the airplane.  They have a fantastic view of the Panama canal, and then as they approach, they see the Panama City skyline, and I don’t care if you are from Manhattan, you will be awed by that.  They get off the plane and say “Wow, we did not expect this.”  And you see all the movement in Panama, you see all the cranes.  Its exploding.  Especially the people from Europe, who come from countries with few high-rises, and Panama’s skyline is very impressive.  Now we open the new coastal highway, which is very beautiful, which is due to open June 15th.

I think we will focus more on developing tourism in the interior of the country.  Right now only 2 out of every 10 tourists cross the bridge of the Americas to enter into the interior.  So we need to develop that area in an orderly fashion.

So Panama continues to grow.  We intend to knock on the doors of all of the large multinational corporations that are now have headquarters in Florida, Atlanta, and the southeast US and to bring it to Panama.  Panama is an excellent place to do business.  We have fiscal incentives, we are free of earthquakes and hurricanes, we have the dollar currency…there are a lot of pluses for doing business in Panama.  But most companies do not know that.  But now a lot more American and multinational companies will be coming to Panama to establish regional headquarters, because we also have a hub of the Americas here.  We fly to every country in Latin America and 5 cities in the US on a daily basis.

By looking at that I can forecast to you, first of all, that Martinelli will be very successful, changing the dormant way the government does business, and he will put priorities in the right place because hes a business man and surrounded by business people.  That will help us grow more aggressively than before.  Even though we may have this recession in the world, as a matter of fact this recession has been very good because people are looking at Panama as an option and were not looking at us before.  I think the market will keep on growing in that direction.  I am going on the 6th of June to Milan Italy to the largest real estate conference in Italy to make a presentation.

In Panama, we are now focusing more on the high-end market.  For example, we are building the Trump Ocean in Punta Pacifica – those units begin at over $1million, so we have to focus on high-end buyers.  We also have everything..everything on the road.  Now, we don’t want make Panama a welfare state.  We don’t want people coming in and saying “oh, i cant live on my social security in the U.S. so I am going to move to Panama.  No, that’s not the idea.  We want to concentrate on the high-level tourists and retirees to move here and enjoy the quality of life that we have here.

Photo provided by kenobando at http://www.flickr.com/photos/kobando/2683729227/

Click here for Round 1: Retirement Benefits

Click here for Round 2: Climate

Click here for Round 4: Things To Do

Round 3: People and Culture

If you are going to relocate, either as an expat or retiree, its important to know what your neighbors will be like.  Considering that most prospective expats and retirees don’t want to live in a country full of jerks, this article takes a look at the culture and people in both countries and determines a winner.  Round 3, begin!

Note: These are generalizations and not meant to include every citizen.  Also, food will be covered in another article.
Costa Rica

The oft-repeated generalization is that Costa Rica, in fact, has no culture.  This is impossible; even a land of brain-eating zombies have a culture of, well, eating brains.  The Ticos certainly do have a culture, albeit not as impressive as the Mayan-rich countries to the north.  And if culture is defined by recent social and political instability, then I think most Costa Ricans would be more than happy to have little of it.

CR is definitely the whiter of the two countries, with 97% of the population classifying themselves as white or mestizo.  Some Ticos will claim that there isn’t racism in the country, which is easy to say when you never really see Afro-Caribbeans or pure indigenous people.  In fact, Afro-Caribbeans were not allowed to leave the Limón province until 1949 (however, the U.S. had some pretty draconian racial laws at this time as well).  But alas it is the 21st century and for the most part all is well.

Ticos are generally conservative people who for the most part shun the weird and bizarre.  Additionally, they shy away from debate in an almost offensive manner as to, ironically, not offend anyone.  Perhaps that is the Central American key to political stability: don’t talk about politics, don’t stir the pot.  They will, however, do whatever they can to impress their guests and are extremely amiable.

Religiously, Costa Rica is a dominantly Catholic country.  However, the church does not have the kind of power or influence it does with CR’s neighbors; many Ticos claim to be Catholic but practice it more as a tradition than a lifestyle.  A crucial part of the country’s culture is its strong middle class, something of an oddity in Latin America.  It acts as a sort of homogenizing ease between the poor (yes, Costa Rica has poor people despite claims to the contrary) and the rich elite, smoothing over tensions by giving the poor an feasible economic ladder to climb.  Thus, coupled by the fact that the country has no army and no military budget, is the reason why the school, medical, and road systems are developed.

Summing up, Ticos are smart, kind people who wish to leave a good impression on visitors.  While this makes for a great vacation and you know your neighbors will be peaceful folks who invite you over for sunset dinners, the general disdain for healthy debate takes some of the spark out of conversation

Panama

Panamanians must be split up into two groups: those living in the capital, and everyone else.  Just about every city-dweller in the world makes fun of, looks down on, or thinks less of the hicks, rednecks, countryfolk, farmboys, etc etc that live outside the metropolis’ limits.  But the inhabitants of Panama City seem to have an indignation, nearly reaching hatred status, of everyone else in the country.  Once, when telling a Panama City friend of mine that I was going to go to the rainforests to the west of the city, he became perplexed and responded simply with “Why would you want to go there?”.  PCity is the place to be; if you don’t live there, then you haven’t made it to the top yet.  Thus the snobbish attitude that many capital residents have and the reason why two groups must be made when looking at the people and culture of the country.

Whereas Costa Rica is very, very white, Panama is a melting pot of races and cultures.  A healthy population of Afro-Panamanians, as well as several indigenous communities, inject a good deal of diversity into the country.  Additionally, the canal project and subsequent international trade has brought sizable enclaves of Chinese, Koreans, and Indians to the capital.  The diverse crowd, along with prosperous economic times, makes racism a mute point, although it does exist.

The Panamanian attitude, especially in the capital, is a combination of New Orleans’ “let the good times roll” and Las Vegas extravagance. The new found wealth that the canal and international banking have brought has fostered a forward-thinking capitalistic society that could care less about the past; in fact, I had a Panamanian history and culture professor in Panama City tell me that history is pretty much irrelevant and can even be a hindrance.Panamanians can be a bit more closed off than their Tico counterparts, but once the initial ice is broken they are as inviting as any culture.  They love to talk about anything, which is perhaps a vestige from their Colombian roots.  However, the wealthy elite, who are growing in number, can be a bit prudish and flashy.

Round 3 Winner: TIE.  While their timidity and political disassociation can get a bit annoying at times, the Tico’s welcoming vibes are irresistible and definitely add to the charm of the country.  Also, their predominately European heritage makes them unique in Central America.  Panamanians love a good party and are cool people, but the initial closed circles and penchant for the uber-rich to flash money around is a turnoff.  But the diverse racial mix of the country, including several indigenous groups and the Afro-Panamanians on the Caribbean coast, make up for any big-spending showboaters.

4/28 Update

–Three major cruise lines – Carnival, Princess, and Holland America – have cancelled all stops in Mexico for the remainder of the week.  Ships already en route will remain at sea until further notice.

–Fred Olsen Cruises out of the UK will forego its planned Acapulco stop.

–German and French tour operators have suspended all operations to Mexico.

–Mexico City has barred restaurants from serving food unless it is carry out.

4/29 Update

–French health ministers are preparing to ask the United Nations to suspend all flights from Europe to Mexico.  Request will be made on Thursday 4/30

–Costa Rica has confirmed two cases, one in Heredia, one in San Jose.  Read our report here

–Panamanian officials today have confirmed 1 suspected case of H1N1 Swine Flu in Panama City

–The first death attributed to H1N1 outside of Mexico has occurred, a infant in Texas, USA

–Argentina has suspended all flights arriving from Mexico

–Numerous cases of swine flu have been documented in Cancun.  At least 13 cases have been confirmed, mainly by foreign officials when infected tourists returned home.

–No cases have been confirmed in Acapulco or Puerto Vallarta region

–12 cases have are suspected in Guanajato, Mexico

–43 cases of H1N1 have been confirmed in Aguascalientes, near San Miguel Allende, with 3 confirmed deaths

–25 confirmed cases along the Baja Peninsula, with 1 confirmed death

5/1

–Mexico City has ordered a virtual shutdown of all civic and public sectors over the weekend holiday period

–Mexico has reevaluated the number of deaths cause by H1N1 to 12

5/4

–The number of deaths cause by the H1N1 virus in Mexico stands at 20 confirmed with over 100 suspected.

–Mexico plans to begin opening restaurants and cafes starting Wednesday, with schools, bars, and other public sectors due to open shortly thereafter

–Costa Rica has decreased its confirmed cases from 2 to 1

–Colombia has confirmed its first case of H1N1

–El Salvador has confirmed 2 cases

Are you an expat or retiree living in Latin America?  We want to here your story.  What is your country, community, or family doing to stay healthy?  Are you worried, or is this a exaggeration of the media?  Tell us, and the world, your story below.

front photo provided by sarihuella at http://www.flickr.com/photos/sarihuella/3474911510/

Click here for Round 1: Retirement Benefits

Click here for Round 3: People and Culture

Click here for Round 4: Things To Do

Round 2: Climate

A major consideration for any prospective retiree or expat wanting to relocate to Central America is climate.  No where in the U.S. or Europe does the climate change so rapidly, even within an hour or two by car.  Let’s take a look at the climates in each country and see who comes out on top.  Round 2, begin!

Panama

What happens when decide to build your capital city in the rainforest?  A metropolis that is hot as hell.  That’s precisely what Panama (well, the Spaniards) did and the result is a swealtering, humid city where it is impossible to stay dry, especially if you are a gringo.  That, coupled with the Panama City penchant for always wearing collared shirts and suits, and it is nearly impossible not to sweat out every toxin in your body.  I lived there, and needed a shower after my walk to the university at 7:30 in the morning.

Outside of the city things change dramatically.  The coasts, especially the Pacific, enjoy a nice ocean breeze that keeps things comfortable, and this is where many foreigners spend much of their time.  The rainforest – and Panama certainly has a lot of it – is hot, muggy, and wet (duh) but I found it to actually be cooler than the burning concrete of the capital.  Conversely, the awesome Azuero Peninsula is much like southern Spain: hot and arid.

The mountains, of course, are much more temperate.  Thus the reason Boquete feels like a suburb of a U.S. city.  El Valle de Anton is also a quaint mountain hamlet within striking distance of Panama City  But Panama just doesn’t have the mountains that Costa Rica does.

Costa Rica

There is a reason Costa Rica has been the expat and retiree haven for 30 years.  The climate is quite incredible, extremely diverse, and for the most part predictable.  The rainforests are hot and sticky, which of course is what makes them rainforests.  The central mountains (including San Jose) are cool year round (60’s and 70’s) with moderate rainfall, providing the climate needed to produce the famous coffee.  The nights are cool here and light jackets are fashionable.  The beaches, like Panama’s, benefit from the seabreeze; however, the Caribbean can get sweltering and it can rain like hell.

Round Two Winner: Costa Rica.  While Panama City may rule in terms of nightlife, diversity, and commerce, its like an oven.  An oven with a rainforest in it.  San Jose’s mild climate and close proximity to rainforests and beaches gives it the edge in terms of climate.  The mere fact that Costa Rica has more mountains, thus a milder climate, makes it the winner in round two.

Voice your opinion below.  Agree, disagree, or have additional info thats been left out?  We want to hear from you…