I recently spoke to Caitlin Lupton, who studied community based eco-tourism in Colombian National Parks from 2009-2010 with the Fulbright Program. As Caitlin says, “Ecoturismo Comunitario is a collaborative effort with the national parks system and Indigenous, Campensinos and Afrocolombians to stimulate local development, economy and conservation. Caitlin traveled to 5 national parks while studying in Colombia on her Fulbright Grant, all of which were specifically known for their “ecoturismo” comunitario. Thus, many Colombian national parks provide an opportunity to engage in both eco and cultural tourism. Caitlin was kind enough to provide me with information about several Colombian national parks; for more information, check out the Colombian National Park web page at: www.parquesnacionales.gov.co. It’s always wise to call ahead to find out if a particular park requires a special visitor permit.

Caitlin highlighted some of Colombia’s most noteworthy parks below:

Amacayacu is in Amazonas and is directly on the Amazon river. Tourists arrive in the capital city of Leticia and take boat and hour and a half up the river. This park offers a tropical environment and climate and direct contact with indigenous Tikuna communities.

Tayrona is located in Magdalena about an hour outside of Santa Marta. Here, tourists enjoy hiking in the jungle and relaxing on the many beaches.  Tayrona has many  enterprises operated by the local population, which includes mostly Afrocolombians, campesinos, and Indiginous groups.

Iguaque is located in Boyacá a half an hour outside of Villa de Leyva, in a colder, more mountainous part of the country. Activities include bird watching and hiking to Laguna Iguaque, a sacred site for the ancient Muisca Indians.  You can also spend the night in a spacious cabin that also functions as the visitors center.  Iguaque is a specific site for ecoturismo comunitario.  The hotel/vistitors center features a restaurant that run by the campesinos of the area.  The campesino organization is named Naturar Iguaque. The dishes sold in the restaurant are organic and made from produce grown by the members of the organization.

Los Nevados is located in the three departamentos (the equivalent of states in Colombia): Caldas, Risaralda and Tolima.  It is a cold and very high mountainous region.  There are large peaks within the park that include the Nevados Santa Isabel, El Ruiz o Mesa de Herveo, and Nevado del Tolima.  Visitors can camp and hike here.  It is important for tourists to know that due to high altitude, a guide is required when hiking within park limits, which is an additional cost after the entrance fee. On the top of the Nevados there are glaciers.  There is also a hotel in the middle of the park.  The guides that work within the park are a cooperative organization of area campesinos.

Los Flamencos is located in la Guajira about 15 to 20 minutes outside the capital city of Riohacha.  It is a secluded tropical park known for its bird watching opportunities. Flamingos often come by the thousands to rest and feed in the lake on one side of the park.  The other side of the park is the ocean.  Tourists are allowed to stay in cabañas within the park. The park is run by an organization of Afrocolombians, El Santuario, Grupo Asociativo,  from the neighboring town of Camarones. The group offers cabaña service, local gastronomy, as well as birding and hiking tours. Tourists can also travel to the neighboring Wayuú indigenous community of Tokoromana where they can watch a cultural presentation, which features traditional lunch, crafts and a dance.

Spin Center: I joined this gym about three weeks ago, and even though I’ve only gone twice,  it’s nice so far. This six floor gym in Los Rosales has six floors: A reception desk and group class room on the first, free weights on the second, machine weights on the third, a cardio room on the fourth, a spinning room on the fifth and a salon/spa on the second. It’s not as nice as my gym back home, but they do offer competitive three month, six month, and 12 month plans; I paid COL$450,000 (about US$250.00) for six months, and received a complimentary fitness analysis and personal trainer session, as well as complimentary participation in group classes such as spinning, stretching, body pump, and fit ball. Beside the Rosales branch, there are four other branches: San Martin, el Chico, La Cabrera, and Niza, with Niza in the western part of the state offering the most competitive rates.

BodyTech: When I was gym shopping, I found BodyTech to be the “fanciest” gym in Bogota, with the nicest machines, nicest workout rooms, and of course, the highest rates. With 34 locations in Colombia and 10 in Bogota, BodyTech is Colombia’s largest gym chain, and you can expect to pay about COL$1,500,000 (US$800) if you purchase a one year membership while there’s a sale going on, but it’s worth it if you’re used to upscale American-style gyms. There are branches on Avenida 68, Portal 80, Cedritos, la Cabrera, Autopista 135, Sultan, Carrera 11, Autopista 170, Suba, and Kennedy. Those outside the northeastern section of the city often offer lower rates.

Hard Body: BodyTech’s main competitor has four branches in the Bogota area, including 109, 147, 170, and in Chia. Hard Body offers much more competitive rates than BodyTech, with yearly memberships running as low as COL$520,000 (US$280.00). Most branches have sauna, pool, Turkish baths, group class rooms, and relatively spacious and inviting cardio and weight-lifting rooms. If there were a Hard Body closer to my apartment, I probably would have joined.

Body Town: BodyTown is located at Calle 136 and Carrera 19, but they are quite secretive when it comes to divulging their prices over the phone. However, they charge COL$10,000 (US$5.50) a day, which leads be to believe they charge somewhere between COL$80,000-COL$100,000 (US$45-US$55) a month, with more competitive rates available for six or twelve month memberships. Body Town bills itself as a sports medical center, but it’s really just a nice gym with a spa. There are over a dozen classes, a sauna, and a shop on site.

Hotels: In my opinion, there’s a general lack of decent mid-range options in Bogotas, and visitors will find that they have to choose from budget, hostel-type accommodations or high-priced four and five star hotels. That said, travelers looking for a memorable lodging option in Bogota should check out Hotel Casa Deco, Hotel de la Opera or Hotel Abadia Colonial in la Candelaria, the Embassy Suites Hotel or the architecturally impressive Casa Medina Charleston in los Rosales. La Casona del Patio Amarillo is one of the best B&B options in town.

Dining and Nightlife: Yes, beans, rice, and chicken are the name of the game in Bogota, but there are literally thousands of restaurants here, serving everything from Asian fusion to Italian to Spanish and Peruvian specialities. Among my favorites are Wok, with locations at Parque de la 93 and Calle 122, which serves up Thai, Indonesian and Chinese classics; Crepes and Waffles, with dozens of locations across the city where customers can order a curry, Scilian or stroganoff crepe; Fusionario, a cozy little restaurant on Carrera 6 #55-59 in Chapinero Alto, serving up mostly Asian-inspired dishes starting at COL$10,000 for lunch; Di Lucca a perfect little Italian place right off the Zona T; La Jugueteria, La Macrena’s most famous restaurant decorated with hundreds of toys and serving international fare, and Harry Sasson steakhouse in La Zona G for a tender steak. And you can’t miss El Corral for one of the best hamburgers of your life.

Heading out? Check out la Residencia in Teusaquillo, a midrange bar situated in a restored old house and catering to a bohemian/artsy clientele. Head to Andres Carne de Res just outside Bogota in the town of Chia for an unforgettable night of dancing and (aguardiente) drinking. Or just head to la Zona T, Parque de la 93 or la Candelaria, walk around a bit and see what calls to you. Partying in la Zona T and Parque de la 93 is quite upscale – expect to pay about $10-$15 per cocktail – and la Candelaria caters to an younger, artsier crowd that favor beer and aguardiente.

Local Transportation: Because it was built on a grid system, Bogota is surprisingly easy to get around. Technically, you can walk from one end of the city to the other, but considering its sprawling size, you may be more comfortable taking public transportation.

The Transmilenio is a mass bus system that transports over two million people a day. Set up much like a metro, most Transmilenio stations have maps uniformed personnel who can help you plan your route. The Transmilenio costs COL$1,600 each way and usually runs from 5am to 11pm.

Bogota’s bus system is also relatively easy to manage, but be warned that drivers don’t have much consideration for road rules or passenger comfort and buses often get crammed with way more passengers than would be legal in North America or Europe. Bus fare costs $1,300 during the day and 1,350 at night on holidays.

There are thousands upon thousands of taxis in Bogota, so unless you’re trying to catch one at 5pm on a rainy afternoon, it’s pretty easy to find a taxi. Make sure you take a marked yellow cab; the driver should immediately turn on the meter, but if he doesn’t just ask. If you plan to take a taxi by yourself at night, it’s best to have your restaurant or hotel call one for you. Not calling from a restaurant or hotel? Dial 411-1111, 211-1111, 311-111, or 611-1111.

Traveling to Bogota: Many popular airlines, such as American, Delta, Avianca JetBlue, and Continental, fly directly to Bogota, from Miami, Atlanta, Fort Lauderdale, New York, and Washington. Airline fares start at $350, but can go as high as $900 in December, when many Colombians fly back home to spend the holidays with their families.  The best way to find direct flights to Sao Paulo from your local airport is to check Skyscanner for flights, airlines, and prices. I’ve also found that Kayak is the best resource for finding low-priced fares to Bogota.

But before you go thinking Cartagena is paradise on earth, there are few things to keep in mind: Sure, being the tourism capital of Colombia is an honor, but this means Cartagena is more expensive than just about anywhere in Colombia. If you want a romantic meal in one of Cartagena’s many plazas, expect to pay at least $20 per person and don’t expect to find too many bargains when it comes to souvenir shopping. Because the city managed to escape most of the violence of the ‘80s and ‘90s, there are plenty of foreigners in Cartagena, which means street vendors and musicians have perfected their trade in multiple languages. In other words, claiming not to speak Spanish won’t help your cause much. If you’re dining in one of the main plazas and want to escape a dinnertime serenade, I recommend you avoid eye contact with anyone holding a guitar. Also, watch out for pickpockets and keep your guard up outside the old city at night.

That said, throw on your sarong, put on your sunglasses, and start exploring!

Tip: If you want to save money, consider staying and dining in Getsemani, outside the walled city. This working class neighborhood has a reputation for being dangerous, but as a woman traveling alone, I never had any problems here. You can find hotel rooms here with A/C, cable TV and a private bath for the equivalent of US$15 and some great restaurants running about 50% cheaper than those in the old city. There are modern lodging option in Boca Grande and el Laguito, Cartagena’s Miami-esque new town.

Day 1

Wake up early and head to the walled city. The best way to get a feel for Cartagena is to simply stroll through its narrow streets, get coffee at one of its outdoor cafes and people watch at one of its many plazas, but those looking for a more formal itinerary can follow the plan below:

Start your Cartagena walk-through at the Plaza de Los Coches, one of Cartagena’s most historic plazas, and stock up on traditional Cartagena sweets at the Portal de Los Dulces. Next, walk toward the Plaza de San Pedro and visit the Iglesia de San Pedro Claver, which also operates as a museum. If you’re into modern art, you won’t want to miss the Museo de Arte Moderno just a couple blocks from the plaza. And if you’re into naval history, you may want to pay a visit to the Museo Naval off of Calle Juan de Dios. After you’ve had enough of antique nautical instruments, take Calle A. Ricaurte to la Plaza de Bolivar, one of my favorite plazas in the walled city (keep in mind that Calle A. Ricaurte turns into Calle Santa Teresa). Here you can visit attractions such as the recently remodeled Cathedral, the Museo del Oro and the Palacio de La Inquisicion. At the Plaza de Santo Domingo, visit the Iglesia y Claustro Santo Domingo. If you’re hungry, this is a good place to grab lunch.

After lunch, walk on toward Plaza de San Diego, one of Cartagena’s prettiest plazas. If you’re in the mood to buy souvenirs, walk down Calle de Las Bovedas to Las Bovedas, an old jail now boasting 23 souvenir shops.

If you’re still feeling energetic and ambitious, ask your hotel to book a tour for you on a chiva, a traditional, colorful wooden bus, to see some of the sites outside the walled city. Your chiva includes a bilingual guide (bilingual being subjective here) and entrance to several attractions such as the Castillo de San Felipe de Barejas and El Convento de La Popa, both of which offer great views of Cartagena. If, for some unlikely reason, your hotel doesn’t offer chiva tours, head to the tourism office at La Plaza de La Aduana, which will be able to book a tour for you.

Next, head back to your hotel for a late afternoon siesta before heading back to La Plaza de Santo Domingo for a seafood dinner on one of the Americas’ oldest plazas. Yes, there are too many vendors and musicians and the food is horribly over priced, but who doesn’t want to say they ate dinner in a 500 year-old plaza?

If you’re feeling particularly festive, I recommend booking a rumba chiva, which will give you a tour of Cartagena at night with a party twist: All the aguardient, rum, fried yucca and fried plantain that you want, before dropping you off at a night club to really get the party started. There’s usually a bilingual guide and traditional Vallenato band on board, and most Rumba Chivas stop to take in traditional Cartagena dances such as the Mapale and Cumbia, which showcase Cartagena’s rich African heritage. Again, most rumba chivas can be booked by your hotel or at the tourism office at La Plaza de La Aduana.

Day 2

Cartagena’s beaches are loud, busy and decidedly unspectacular, so I recommend booking a tour to Las Islas del Rosario just off the coast of Cartagena. Las Islas del Rosario are a small archipelago of islands that offer much nicer, quieter beaches. A day tour almost always includes a dolphin show, snorkeling, a typical Cartagena lunch of fried fish and coconut rice and a couple hours on Playa Baru, an attractive, white sand beach with a lovely jungle backdrop.

You’ll probably be worn out when you get back to your hotel around 5pm, so take a quick nap before heading off to dinner. To celebrate your last night in the city, indulge yourself in a delicious, avant-garde seafood dinner el Club de Pesca, one of Cartagena’s most exclusive and expensive restaurants. Situated in a 300 year-old fort overlooking the Cartagena marina and its many impressive yachts, this romantic, picturesque restaurant is the perfect ending to your Cartagena vacation.

For additional information on Colombia, check out my articles on Bogota’s neighborhoods and Bogota’s cafe culture.

Even if you haven’t traveled to Latin America, you’ve probably heard something about Mexico, Costa Rica and Brazil. But there are dozens of other fantastic must-see destinations South of Miami. So do a little research and discover some of Central and South America’s lesser known gems.

Lake Titicaca in Bolivia. Photo courtesy of Szeke.

Nicaragua: It’s one of Central America’s safest and cheapest countries and it offers the intrepid traveler a plethora of ecotourism opportunities, from lowland jungles to mountain cloud forests to island paradises. For colonial charm, visit the old world city of Granada. If surfing’s your thing, head to the Pacific coastal town of Salinas. Some consider Nicaragua the poor man’s Costa Rica, and while it’s true that the tourism infrastructure isn’t quite as developed, Nicaragua offers just as many eco opportunities at much more affordable rates. And as an added bonus, there aren’t hordes of tourists to deal with.

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Glamorous Punta del Este. Photo courtesy of Gusuval.

A typical pre-Columbian gold piece at the Museo del Oro

Start your day at El Museo del Oro, perhaps Colombia’s most famous museum. With almost 35,000 pieces of gold from the pre-Columbian era, I recommend taking a tour. English language guided tours are available at 11am and 3pm, but self-guided audio tours are available all day. Be prepared to be dazzled by the “gold room,” with its almost 10,000 pieces of gold objects. El Museo del Oro is located on Calle 16 with Carrera 7, and hours are Tuesday-Saturday 9am-6pm and Sunday 10am-4pm. Admission is COL$3,000 (US$1.50).

After properly exploring El Museo del Oro, walk south along La Septima, one of Bogota’s oldest and most important avenues, until you reach La Plaza de Bolivar, Bogota’s historic city center dating back to 1539. Here, travelers can visit the colonial-style Museo del 20 de Julio, also known as La Casa del Florero, on the northeastern most corner of the plaza. Colombia’s war for independence began here, and visitors can enjoy browsing objects dating back to Colombia’s colonial/independence period.  The museum is open from 9am-4:30pm Tuesday through Friday and 10am-3:30pm Saturdays and Sundsays. Admission is COL$3,000 (US$1.50). Other plaza attractions include Bogota’s Catedral Primaria, a rather somber Baroque-inspired cathedral, the impressive neoclassical Capitolio and the Palacio de Justicia, rebuilt after the 1985 M-19 guerilla bombing that killed 55 people. In the middle of plaza, visitors will find a statue of Simon Bolivar.  If anything, the Plaza de Bolivar provides a brief but intense history into Colombian history and architecture.

Next, head north toward La Candelaria, Bogota’s charismatic if slightly seedy colonial quarter.  The best way to see La Candelaria is to simply stroll through the quarter’s narrow streets, but some must-sees include the Museo Botero (Calle 11 #4-21; Monday through Saturday 9am-7pm, Sundays 10am-5pm; free admission), which houses the largest collection of Botero paintings and sculptures in the world. Next, head over to the small but impressive Italian Renaissance-inspired Teatro Colon (Calle 10 #5-32; 10am-5pm Tuesday to Saturday and Sunday 1pm-5pm; admission COL$8,000 (US$4), Bogota’s oldest and most prestigious theater which often hosts ballets, concerts and theater productions.

Bogota was officially founded  El Chorro de Quevedo, around Carrera 1 and Calle 13. Here, travelers will find Bogota’s most bohemian, tattooed and alternative crowd, specialized in playing the bongos and selling inexpensive jewelry and handicrafts. There is a funky cobblestoned street to the north of the plaza, filled with hole-in-the-wall bars, artesania markets and tiny restaurants and cafes.  It gets a bit seedy here at night, so I recommend visiting el Chorro de Quevedo during the day if you’re on your own.

Chocolate con queso and tamal at La Puerta Falsa.

If you’re feeling hungry, I recommend heading back toward La Plaza de Bolivar to La Puerta Falsa (Calle 11 #6-50; Mon-Sat 7am-11pm), Bogota’s oldest restaurant and Colombia’s longest operating business, dating back to 1816. This cozy, intimate restaurant/café specializes in tamales, a typical Bogota dish made with corn flour, chicken and vegetables and wrapped in a banana leaf, and also serves up Chocolate con Queso (hot chocolate with cheese) and dozens of tasty, typical Colombian treats.

After a lunch of tamales and hot chocolate, walk toward Calle 20 and Carrera 2 to the Quinta de Bolivar, at the foot of Monserrate, was the Bogota home of Simon Bolivar and his long-time mistress Manuelita de Saenz.  Now a museum, visitors will get too see many of Bolivar’s and Saenz’s original belongings. Finally, head to Monserrate, one of Bogota’s highest peaks, and home to the Santuario de Monserrate and the fallen Christ. In addition to the church, there are several souvenir shops and restaurants atop Monserrate, as well as sweeping views of Bogota. Monserrate can be reached by train or cable car at 2E #21-48 and costs COL$12,000 (US$6) before 5:30 and COL$15,000 (US$7.50) after 5:30.  English and Spainsh language information about Monserrate can be found at: www.cerromonserrate.com. Make a dinner time reservation at Casa Santa Clara, one of Bogota’s finest French restaurants, and watch the sunset over Bogota.

For more information on Bogota, check out articles on the neighborhoods of Bogota, and Bogota’s cafe culture.

A typical Villa de Leyva street.

It may be overpriced and overdone, but it’s hard to deny that there’s something special about Villa de Leyva, Colombia’s favorite colonial small town. I tend to stay away from destinations on the beaten path, but Villa De Leyva brings me back over and over.  Here, you’ll find Colombia’s largest cobblestoned plaza surrounded by untouched colonial churches and buildings, framed by arid mountains and surrounded by picturesque, narrow streets, cozy restaurants, pastry shops and impressive mountainside fincas. So whether you’re in Colombia for a couple weeks or long-term, pack up your weekend suitcase and discover one of Colombia’s most charming destinations.

When to Go

Villa de Leyva has sunny, spring-like weather all year round, but December through March is the sunniest, warmest time. On weekends and holidays, Villa de Leyva comes to life with Bogotanos escaping the busy city, but during the week, things quiet down and Villa de Leyva reverts to its sleepy, old-time self, where you’ll find men and women wearing traditional ruanas (shawls) and hats, and life seems to go on as it has for 100 years. If you want to see the authentic Villa de Leyva, a weekday visit is best, but if you want to be in town when things are popping, I recommend heading to town during one of Bogota’s many puentes, or holiday weekends.  If possible, don’t miss the weekly farmer’s market, held every Saturday on the main plaza.

Getting there

The easiest way to get to Villa de Leyva is to take a Transmilenio to the Portal del Norte and walk over to the Exito.  Buses heading toward Tunja (2.5 hours; COL$17,000/US$8.50) pass by every 15 minutes or so. At Tunja, you’ll have to transfer to a smaller bus headed to Villa de Leyva (45 minutes; COL$5,500/US$2.75).   There are a few buses a day that go directly to Villa de Leyva from el Terminal de buses, but you’ll want to call ahead to confirm departure times (+57 1-423-3600; Diagonal 23 No.69-65).

Where to Stay

Whenever I got to Villa de Leyva, I stay at the Renacer Hostel (+57 8 732-1379; Mobile 311 308-3739).  It’s about 1 KM outside of town and is situated on a tranquil hillside overlooking the Villa de Leyva valley.  The hostel is run by Oscar Gilede, a young biologist who also runs Colombian Highlands, which offers hiking, rappelling and horseback riding tours in the Villa de Leyva area.  Even though the hostel is a bit of a walk from town, the energy feels right and the colonial-style farmhouse attracts a diverse group of travelers.  There’s a group dining area, a camping area, dorms and private rooms,  a TV room, Internet and breakfast for COL$5,000/US$2.50.  The hostel fosters an air of comradery among guests and it’s not uncommon for someone to pull out a guitar or share a tasty meal with new friends.

If you want to be closer to town, La Roca, (+57 8 732-0331)  offers doubles for about COL$90,000/US$45.000 and is located right on the plaza. Travelers looking for more upscale lodging will want to head to El Duruelo  (+57 8 732-0222). Although rooms are not particularly luxurious, the hotel has gorgeous gardens and a spectacular pool.

However, it’s hard to go wrong when it comes to lodging in Villa de Leyva, as nearly all hotels and hostels are housed in traditional, colonial era homes that ooze charm.  Unless you’re visiting on a holiday weekend, it’s not necessary to book ahead of time.

The Renacer Hostel, located on the outskirts of Villa de Leyva.

Where to Eat and Drink

Those looking for more upscale dining options will want to head to Casa Quintero on the corner of the plaza by the main cathedral. Inside you’ll find about half a dozen elegant restaurants serving up mostly international fare. Restaurants around the plaza offer the best in terms of people watching, but tend to be more expensive than those on the side streets. For whatever reason, pizza seems to be a particularly popular option in Villa.

Villa de Leyva can’t compete with Bogota in terms of nightlife, but the Villa afterhours scene has charms of its own.  Rather than head to a bar or club, locals and tourists alike hang out around the church steps and indulge in beer and aguardiente. Soon enough, everyone’s become fast friends and the plaza is converted into an outdoor bar. Of course, there are plenty of places to get a beer or two, but when in Rome…

If you’re in Villa de Leyva during the week, you won’t find much of a party scene.

What to Do

In my opinion, the ultimate Villa de Leyva plan is to stroll the cobblestoned streets, dine at one its quaint restaurants, and enjoy a long afternoon siesta in your hotel hammock. However, those wanting a more active city break have their choice of outdoor fun, such as horseback riding, hiking and rappelling. Known as the El desierto, or the desert, Villa de Leyva’s surroundings are a stark contrast to Colombia’s typically colorful and vegetated landscapes.  However, there is an undeniable beauty in Villa’s arid hills and desert vegetation.

Villa de Leyva is famous for its archealogical sites and ostrich farm, so just ask your hotel concierge for a map and suggestions.  Outdoor enthusiasts will want to book a tour with Guias y Travesias (+57 8 732-0742) or Colombian Highlands (+57 8 732 1379).

For more information on Bogota, check out its safest neighborhoods and cafe culture.

Villa de Leyva is a popular hiking spot for outdoor enthusiasts.