Text & Photos by Kateri Drexler

isitors can photograph bugs that may never be identified, considering that this area alone is home to more than 10 million kinds of insects. Hundreds of species of frogs can also be found, including dozens of species of the tiny, brightly covered poison arrow frogs. Overhead, amateurs can spot over 125 species of birds, including four species of Macaws. The experienced birdwatcher can see hundreds more bird species.

Meyers, a local guide for 20 years, leads some of the jungle excursions. He is the first to spot monkeys, knows where to stay clear of the very venomous fer de lance snakes, and can explain the different types of trees and their symbiotic relationships. The Palo Santo tree is host to the poisonous Azteca ant, which in turn defends the tree against herbivores looking to devour its life-sustaining leaves. He points out the liana vine, which, when cut, reveals a source potable water, and drains sangre de drago from another tree, a thick red sap known for curing stomach ailments. Meyers spends his spare time carving a canoe paddle or weaving a new fishing net, and will gladly teach anyone who is interested in learning. The station has not been set up to simply indulge the adventure seeker, however. It is a well-equipped research facility that attracts scientists and students as well as vacationers. Occupying over 1500 acres, the station is built around a giant fig tree, and includes student housing facilities, a laboratory, guest cabins, a dining room, and a bluff house, all close by the river. Next to the guest rooms, there is a tower for birdwatching at treetop level. Hammocks on the porches outside of the rooms are ideal for early morning macaw sightings, or for watching the river dolphins.

The Tiputini Station is run by Dr. Carol Walton and Dr. Kelly Swing, both biologists at the University, who lead tours and conduct research on topics that range from frogs to bats to plant smells. They are currently researching frog chemical defense mechanisms and frog vocalizations. Other research projects include monkey behavior, epiphyte physiology and biodiversity, bat inventory, insect diversity; medicinal usages of fungi, and plant odors and attraction of pollinators. Students and visitors alike learn the science of the jungle, about the fragile ecosystem in constant danger and of ways to better protect it. They also learn certain safety precautions, because the Amazon is a world of disguise--snakes look like vines, vines like snakes.

Local Indian guides explain that the biggest danger for humans in the jungle is pulling on vines, not because they turn out to be snakes, but because the canopy of the jungle is a giant net, supporting fallen leaves and branches. One Tarzan tug could bring them crashing down. Despite the hardcore science, a stay at Tiputini is not exactly roughing it. Visitors are lodged in snug huts with thatched roofs, complete with private baths and electricity. Don't let the creature comforts fool you, however. All planning and construction has been done with mimimal environmental impact as a priority, from the closed-loop septic system to the water recycling. Walkways connect the different buildings, keeping visitors out of the mud, and also keeping them from flattening the forest floor.