By Patrick Connelly
Dennis Hopper is right. He may have gone from Easy Rider to retirement fund commercial sellout, but he is spot on with his portrayal of retiring baby-boomers as wanting more than a quite little house in Oklahoma. It is no secret that Costa Rica is the idyllic place to exercise this thirst for adventure, without battling lions or requiring sherpas. But let’s face it. For some of us, the northern beaches and Central Mountains are getting a little crowded, a little urbanized. We require something extra. The Golfito region, in the country’s southwestern corner, is the answer. One of the last areas of Costa Rica that combine beauty and isolation with all of the modern day living perks, it holds innumerable treasures.
I remember the first time I visited Golfito, willing my half-destroyed jeep down lazy jungle-clad roads and up curvy peaks, and I recall being awestruck by the Shangri-La feeling the area had. It was as if time had ceased in this one tiny corner of the world, stopping so that monkeys could play in the trees and waves could crash on the beach and people could keep living tranquilly forever.
Enough reminiscing. Golfito is the country’s next big thing, and the fruit is ripe for picking; top quality land and homes are available for prices that can make Tamarindo look like South Beach. Development has not hit the levels of Nicoya or the mountains yet, thus land and construction costs are still considerably less. But this isn’t some backwoods Swiss Family Robinson-style existence; conversely, electricity and water reach even the most remote areas and are always improving.
Additionally, primo beach property is widely available and offers unmatched seclusion, something that is becoming more and more rare in the north. The region is dotted with picturesque seaside towns, built up on fishing and now also catering to a vibrant surfing community. Interspersed between the hamlets is a mix between ancient villas, unchanged by time, and the homes of expats from around the world. As expected in a coastal community, the locals and expats alike are laid back, easy-going, and incredibly welcoming.
The area also offers many activities, from the water to the rainforest. Several national parks dot the region, including the Eden-like Parque Corcovado, which is probably the best place on Earth to see rainforest animals, such as tapirs and jaguars, in the wild. In truth, the park is a zoo without cages, untouched by human hands. The region is dominated by three major towns: Dominical to the north, Golfito to the south, and Puerto Jimenez on the Osa Peninsula. All three towns are similar, offering everything you need without the concrete jungle or traffic jams. Puerto Jimenez, a legend among expats and backpackers alike, has a strange Wild West vibe to it due to its gold panning population; nightlife can reach epic levels when oro is found.
If the rainforest gets a little too hot for you, the region’s endless virgin beaches are a welcomed recluse. Surfers come from around the world to ply the great waves, so if you are brave enough grab a board and hang ten. Just offshore, there is an affordable, incredibly productive sportfishing industry that challenges even the most experienced angler. Sailfish, marlin, dorado, and tuna are in abundance and the occasional world record has been caught just off the coast.
So if you are interested in living comfortably, affordably, and having some real fun while you do it, look no further than Golfito. Beat the rush, because the word on this pristine region will certainly get out soon.




